M&H RaceMaster DR's Review

[jmillsUT28]

I went to the track for the first time about a month ago. I was running Kumho V700's and they spun in 1st, 2nd, and a little in 3rd. My car is making 752rwhp. So I decided to buy some M&H RaceMaster 345/35R18 Tires. Cost $299 each.

Comparable Race Size 12.5/28.0R18
Tread Width: 12.3"
Section Width: 13.8"
Diameter: 28.0"
Circumference: 88.0"
Rim Size: 13.0"

Here are a few pictures of the tire on some CCW Classics. They are huge! I'm going to the strip tonight so will edit this post with my reviews. Enjoy!

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[uvbnbit]

Now.....what about that thread guessing your e.t./mph

Huge is an understatement. Make us proud!

 

[Tiago]

that tire hooks more than 1000 rWHP for me

 

[Canyon707]

I think it's the best DR out there. funny car compounds. This is all I run.

 

[vpower01]

Wow i might be getting that.

 

[TowDawg]

Will 18's fit on the back of a gen III? I would love a set of these, but they don't make it in a 19.

 

[Jack B]

A bit of a tangent, but, M&H shipped my skinnies yesterday. They were ordered in June.

 

[jasontiff]

Damn, man...they fill up that wheel well like 20s. My DRs are getting slick, so when those are gone I'll look into those. Now that the line lock is hooked up, they may go faster than I thought...

 

[treesnake]

Will 18's fit on the back of a gen III? I would love a set of these, but they don't make it in a 19.

Depends on the inside offset of your wheels.

Also, some 18" wheels won't fit until you install a parking brake relocation bracket. DAVES BB website did have a template that yopu could cut out and place in your wheel to see if they will clear calipers and parking brake.
The template is for upgrading a Gen 2 with Gen 3 brake calipers and rotors

In other words, some fit and some do not...

JonB could probably tell you which wheels will fit...

BTW... "Hoosier" just came out with a 19" DR...

 

[Simms]

BTW... "Hoosier" just came out with a 19" DR...

Good to know...

 

[jmillsUT28]

Yes these tires look insane The picture they have on their website does not show the 8" slick patch in the middle of the tire.

Now for the review:

I'm new at drag racing. This will be my 2nd time on a 1/4" track. All of the racers there said that they never prep this track for the street fights and expect to run about a second or more slower. I'm learning how to heat up my tires. I did not do a good job at all last night. Once I would start the burn out I could not keep it in one spot. It would spin for a second then roll out and get a little sideways then I would let off. Line up on the tree and run down the track. I would start in first and start from idle. Would not drop the clutch and could not get any tracking at all. So that tells me that these tires need to me heated up! So I'm going to invest in a Line Lock and that should take care of heating my tires up.

My best time was 12.1 yes I know that is sad for the power I am making. I just need traction. It was NOT the tires. It was me not being able to heat the tires up right. I did not bring my time slips to my office but when I get home I will post them so you can see my 60' and everything. This car should be at least a second faster but I'm just learning and had not traction. Practice practice practice!

 

[treesnake]

Good to know...

I will try to find the thread. It was Nitto or Hoosier

 

[jmillsUT28]

Hey jasontiff, which line lock did you buy? How hard was it to install and who did you buy it from?

 

[treesnake]

I will try to find the thread. It was Nitto or Hoosier

Sorry, It was Nitto...

​

New Nitto 19" Drag Radials NT05R​

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​

NITTO TIRE RELEASES ALL-NEW DRAG-SPECIFIC RADIAL: NT05R

Cypress, Calif., October 26, 2009 – Nitto Tire announces the release of its all-new D.O.T.-compliant competition drag radial, the NT05R™. The NT05R is Nitto’s most aggressive drag radial designed for competition use. Nitto will officially debut the tire at this year’s SEMA show, held at the Las Vegas Convention Center from November 3 to 6, 2009. Visit Nitto at booth #46115 to see the tire. The NT05R will be available for purchase in the first quarter of 2010. Nitto’s top priority during the development of the tire was to maximize traction. To achieve this, Nitto engineered an all-new specialized race compound and a large contact patch. The dual-purpose sidewall construction is enhanced for traction during launch as well as straight-line stability at the top-end. This improves consistency and controllability throughout the entire pass. The NT05 will be available in popular 17- to 20-inch rim diameters designed for high-performance drag racing vehicles. Included in the size lineup is a P345/30R19, which is the world’s first 19-inch drag radial. Sizes will be released throughout 2010.​

Coming Soon​

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LL Indicates Light Load. Technical Information subject to change without notice.​

​

​

 

[treesnake]

Yes these tires look insane The picture they have on their website does not show the 8" slick patch in the middle of the tire.

Now for the review:

I'm new at drag racing. This will be my 2nd time on a 1/4" track. All of the racers there said that they never prep this track for the street fights and expect to run about a second or more slower. I'm learning how to heat up my tires. I did not do a good job at all last night. Once I would start the burn out I could not keep it in one spot. It would spin for a second then roll out and get a little sideways then I would let off. Line up on the tree and run down the track. I would start in first and start from idle. Would not drop the clutch and could not get any tracking at all. So that tells me that these tires need to me heated up! So I'm going to invest in a Line Lock and that should take care of heating my tires up.

My best time was 12.1 yes I know that is sad for the power I am making. I just need traction. It was NOT the tires. It was me not being able to heat the tires up right. I did not bring my time slips to my office but when I get home I will post them so you can see my 60' and everything. This car should be at least a second faster but I'm just learning and had not traction. Practice practice practice!

Congrats man!!! You will get it!!!!

I use a B and M line loc from Summit Racing.

 

[Canyon707]

Line lock 2004 Viper
I just finished installing a Hurst line lock on my 04 Viper. I thought I would share the installation with you. My pictures are not the best but, I think most came out ok. I purchased the line lock from JMB Performance.
First step was to locate a mounting area for the line lock. This picture shows it just across from the master cylinder mounting it to the interior side wall.
[URL="http://forums.viperclub.org/attachments/performance-modifications/6538d1265558702-line-lock-2004-viper-line-lock-mount.jpg"][/URL]
Draining the master cylinder was a slow process but, this is how I did it. I bought a cheap turkey baster and some 1/8" tubing. I cut a piece of tubing about 8" long and pulled about 6" through the the tip leaving about 2" inside the baster so I could siphon out the brake fluid from the resesvior . It's kind of a slow process and care must be taken not to spill any. I covered my car with 3m plastic that one would use to mask windows before painting then a vinyl car cover over that.
Justin at JMB Performance knew exactly what parts I needed to set this up and included the braided stainless lines and fittings needed.
Step Two, After removing the fluid I was trying to figure how to get a wrench to the primary brake line. I realized I had to remove the front wheel (driver side) and remove the interior fender well liner. This is the access hole to the fittings on the master cylinder after removing the inner liner. The primary line to remove is the one closest to the fire wall or driver.
Step 3 After the tire was removed and the two parts of the wheel well liner I had to remove the cover that exposed the ABS unit.
not the best picture of the ABS unit but, it was hard to photograph. The primary line on the ABS unit looking through the small access hole is closest to the front of the car and to the right. Very hard to get a good picture let alone to unbolt it. The best way I found was to take a box wrench and cut a slot in it to slip over the brake line and down on the nut to remove it. I pulled of the pan under the bumper to get access to that nut. This was probably the most difficult to reach and I ended up removing the secondary lint to get to the primary line. Be careful not to bend this but it will move out of the way to get a wrench to the primary and loosen it. All I can say about this is it's a tough fitting to get to but, it can be done just takes time. I pretty much followed a smooth path from the line lock to the ABS unit. Included in the kit from JMB Performance was a 90 degree fitting that screwed into the ABS primary. the line was pretty easy to attach. the other line attached to the master cylinder and to the input side of the line lock.


The next part was the wiring. I had to run a direct line from the fuse box to my light and switch inside the car. I decided that I did not want to make a hole in my dash of counsel so I decided to install the unit in the never used ash tray.
This way I could just unplug it if I wanted to remove it and put a new unit in it's place. I ran the wires as needed through the firewall. I drilled a small hole behind the clutch pedal near the top. Be careful not to hit anything on the inside. I found this area to be free from ay wires etc. and then inserted a groument to keep the wires from rubbing on the metal. I had to remove the short shifter and the cover and the plastic counsel cover that had the window switches and lighter. Just unplug them pretty easy to do. The cover just snaps in or out. I just ran the wires under the upper part of the carpet to the counsel and then into the old ash tray and made my connections. I then took some heat shrink materials and covered each connector to protect from any possibility of contact.


Since the fuse box is full I used a fuse that had a third leg to hook power to. This mad it a safe fused link and very easy to do.
This is the finished interior picture of the switch and light all contained in the ash tray.
The last thing to do is to power bleed the brake system. I had to have it done at the dealer since I didn't have the tools to do this. The bleeding is somewhat complicated and for me I think if your not sure have it done by a pro since both sides of the caliper need to be done.
The end.. Questions? just ask. I could only load up five pictures. I have othere if you need a closer look.
Chris

 

[jmillsUT28]

How hard was it to install? Do you have a GenII or GenIII? Was the instructions that came with it help any?

 

[jmillsUT28]

Well hell there you go! ha Thanks Chris!

 

[vpower01]

Did the tires rub at all they look like they stick out past the fenders?
Lets us know how it goes when you get the line lock.

 

[Canyon707]

Gen3 the hardest part was getting your hands on the brake block under the front driver headlight. It was a time when I wish I had the hand of 6 year old. The other hard part was bleeding out the brakes. I actually had to have it done sine I didn't have the equiptment to do it. I just had it towed to my dealer and they did it for me.

 

[jmillsUT28]

vpower01, no rubbing but it was close. One the GenII right behind the side sill in the fender well there is a area that comes out a little. It had about a 1/4" clearance there. But never did rub the whole night. I'm thinking once I get this link lock in that I will not have any traction problems.

 

[vpower01]

On my gen2 it was easy to get the block out and what i did is
just took some pipe tape and rolled it between my fingers to make a point.
Then just plugged the lines and no brake fluid comes out.
The tape wont go into the lines.
Im sure someone did a write up on a gen2 line lock.
Its pretty quick and easy.

When you get the line lock in the tires might rub only because you wont slip as much. Let us know.

 

[jmillsUT28]

Which line lock did you buy and did it come with everything needed to install? I want to make sure I buy a complete kit.

 

[vpower01]

Hurst Shifters 1745000 - Hurst Roll Controls - Overview - SummitRacing.com

Hurst Shifters 5671510 - Hurst Line Lock Installation Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com

You also need a hack saw or pipe cutter, flare tool, and bender.
Brake fluid and someone to help pump the brakes.

Oh an maybe get a different switch from pepboys they have plenty.

 

[jmillsUT28]

Just added a picture I found of my car yesterday.

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[KenH]

Even without a line-lock, you should be able to use the car brakes to keep the car stationary during the burn-out.

 

[GTSnake]

With better traction you should be deep in the 10's at least.

 

[1TONY1]

What was the MPH ?

 

[jmillsUT28]

Here's one of the 12.1 runs.

R/T: .055
60": 2.226
330: 5.536
1/8: 8.154
MPH: 94.63
1000: 10.341
1/4: 12.189
MPH: 121.02

 

[whts-nxt?]

when you can hook that car, just the 60 ft alone will draw a smile to your face!