Re: Just out of curiousity...Why is it that pretty much no one uses nitrous on our ca
filling up the bottle becomes a drag....getting caught without nitrous is a drag. Other than that, it's all good:drive:
Did you change your plugs or do you still have the factory plugs? Also did you gap the plugs to .035 range? If not you could be blowing out the spark.
Aother posibility is belt slippage...I'm dealing with this problem right now....in my case the belt slips pretty bad but I do not experiance...
I don't know of anyone who has had experiance with a GKN unit in an SRT...is this what is coming in the 08's?
I was actually talking with Dan at DC performance yesterday about this topic.
The ricardo is a beefier version of the factory hydro-loc that comes in the COmp Coupe. It will...
Joseph, in my research I've found the 10 rib requires replacing the S/C pully, tensioner and the crank pully along with some other items correct? DLM sells a 10 rib kit for SRT's, it comes with a price tag around $3,600.00 is this what you are refering to or do you have another way to get the...
Pretty sure it wont just go in.
That its the best option for this problem...it comes with a lot of components and of course it cost more....also according to Doug Levin would be over kill for my application. I've got one of his mechanical tensioners on the way.
Yes it has the DC Performance blower flash. I sent my PCM to them for the tune. Today I brought the car down to their shop and Chris fine tuned it even further. The car runs great,
I expect to see something between 650 and 700 rwhp.
By "smaller" I ment smaller in circumference....this system needs all the surface area you can give it. There is a 10 rib pulley system but there is not enough room for it. Doug Levin has the adjustable tensioner.
Thanks, that is an idea...I didn't examine the tensioner that closely so I...
All good advice above. I have the DC blower tune...put it on at the same time as the Paxton so I can't tell you before and after.
I have talked with other paxton users/tuners and been told the the stock computer tune with the base split second tune will give an sloppy air fuel curve...also...
Loose belt was a good answer. Unfortunatly it's self tensioning...so I have to do some re-engineering....or try to find a slightly smaller/better belt. I'm looking into a few things. Last resort is teh DLM tensioner.
The numbers are nice considering the shortage of boost. Another pound and...
Also we again had some differences in the A/F readings. You can see the readings DC's dyno pulled in the graph above. With the LM1 I did some more data logging and it shows the A/F starting out at 11.1 and it holds right at 11.1 all the way to 6000rpm.
So I went to DC Performance today. What a cool shop, Chris, Lyle and Dan are pretty cool guys and they know their stuff too. I'd really like to thank these guys for getting me in with such short notice...there are a lot of Vipers in this shop.
So Chris did some tuning on the car. He took...
Joeseph I agree. But I'm not sure if these dyno numbers are accurate or not as far as the AF goes.
PRO yes I calibrated the LM1 and it's brand new....the dyno just slide the sensor into the tail pipe, didn't see any sort of calibration going on there.
I'm going to have to get a third...
Same problem - same solution. You need to stop the hot oil mist from going back into your motor. I pulled my intake off the other day and there was oil in every port. The problem will be worse depending on how much time you spend in the higher RPMs...I've spent a lot of time there.
These...
I've got some A/F reading discrepencies between my LM1 wide band and the dyno shops A/F numbers.
On my LM-1, I saw 11.2 coming in at 3400 rpm and it climbed to 11.8 by 6000 rpm
The dyno showed totally different numbers.
I'm not sure which machine I should believe. This dyno has shown...
Getting some oil in the supercharger and charge cooler so I'm going to add a catch can into the system.
I'm trying to decide how to route the crank case breather lines.
The plan is to "T" the two valve cover breathers together and run them up to the catch can. The catch can will not be...
Good stuff...Looks like you might have got off easy on this one Bolt.
Many of the gaskets on the Gen III motor are rubber instead of paper...not sure if the timing chain cover uses a rubber gasket or if you could even use a gen III cover on a gen II, but it might be worth looking into.
Thanks for the tip and compliments.
I would use this fuel pressure gauge. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=ATM%2D4363&N=700+115&autoview=sku It matches the factory gauges and yes it has an electrical sending unit. The problem I see with it is, it only goes to...
Sorry I ment to put in that it starts out at 11.2 then climbs to 11.8. Thanks for the tips on the leaving the A/F alone.
On the outside air temp/power issue. When I talked with Mark from Woodhouse, we touched on this subject a little bit. He was telling me that the IAT sensor works kind...
I will most likely go with an A/F gauge lke the one shown a few posts up.
I have a fuel pressure gauge/tool, attached it to the fuel rail. Took it up a few steps at a time to make sure the pumps were kicking in....all was well, seeing just under 100psi at redline.
I also have an LM-1...
So Paxton is not being very helpful with the box then. Did you buy another one in the mean time? How about the tune, with the R4 you can easily pull the tune out of the box correct?
Can the parts can be balanced outside of the engine? Does any block work need to be done or can we just replace the factory components with an upgraded and balanced rotating assembly?
I've put a few engines together but I've yet to build a modern high performance engine.
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