½ shaft swap?

Tim

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Just looking at installing my new Unitrax ½ shafts (& loops) on my 2002 RT and just wondering how much time I need for this?

I’m not sure how easy it is going to be to pull the shaft out of this as the yoke appears to be too wide to clear the clevis on the shock assembly. Any suggestions?

Thanks

Tim
 

GTSnake

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Do you have the 998 recall done? If so, it will be a much tighter fit around that rear brace but still possible to install. It took me a few days because I didn't have the correct spring compressor and the ones that Autozone rents didn't work. Other than that it's pretty straight forward other than tightening the yoke brackets. If you have someone pull the e-brake when you tighten and release when you spin the drive shaft from inside the car it will go a lot faster.
 

dave6666

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I did my u-joints for grins and giggles on my 2001 OE shafts and it was an afternoon job. Did not need a spring compressor to yank the rear shock assembly as full suspension droop = fully extended shock length. So yes, I yanked the shock. If you are swapping to new shafts it will be even easier as you do not have to swap out 4 u-joints. Be sure to use new straps and screws on the u-joint cups. I think the shafts come with those. Have a good quality 8mm or 5/16 socket. Those screws can be pesky (tight!).
 

Tom F&L GoR

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Have a good quality 8mm or 5/16 socket. Those screws can be pesky (tight!).

If you are even thinking about it, start spraying the bolts with anti-rust penetrating oil now. I had a bad u-joint, very pesky bolt that rounded off, etc, long story. Spray now, make it an easy job later.
 

GTSnake

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If you get the replacement strap-screw combo packs the screws come with the Loctite patch. ;)

Yup, mine had a dab on the threads when I replaced with new ones.

Dave, I don't know how you could have gotten the shock bolt on without compressing the spring. Mine was like 4 inches off.
 

Tom F&L GoR

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If you get the replacement strap-screw combo packs the screws come with the Loctite patch. ;)

Whatever, it was a Texas-sized effort to get the little things out!!

And with 90,000 miles at the time, it was old, too. I suspect the head rusted to the next smaller metric size. You know, mean and ornery overcome youth and cleanliness.
 

dave6666

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Dave, I don't know how you could have gotten the shock bolt on without compressing the spring. Mine was like 4 inches off.

To the best of my knowledge, there is no lower travel limit on the a-arms. So, full droop is limited by the max extended length of the shock. Pulled the shock at full droop and there it was. Mine it within 1/8". Have to use one of them pointy pry bars to make sure I don't booger the screw threads going back in, but that is it.

You got that redneck spring kit maybe?

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Mopar Boy

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To answer your question, the half shaft sawp is not TOO bad. I had to change mine out on the side of the track after doing this:

IMGA0641.JPG



We just jacked up the car and sawpped a new Unitrax unit in:

IMGA0612.JPG



And we were back up and running in about an hour. Granted it was just one side, but still, if you are in a equipped garage and you have the tools handy (as opposed to finding and THEN using the tools) the shaft swap should not be more than a few hours. As for the loops, that I cant comment on. Have not done it.

Robert
 

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