Anode radiator cap a gimmick or really needed??

VIPER GTSR 91

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Roe racing has an anode radiator cap that claims the anode deteriorates instead of the inside of your engine. If this was really needed why would the factory not include this device? Any of you have one of these and your thoughts? All the pro mechanics I have known have never suggested one of these.
 

STUGOTS

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I have one but have yet to install it, I have delt ALOT with Sean and if he says it helps im sure it does, he wouldent sell it otherwise.

NEEDED?? I dont think so

good investment?? for the money I think so.
 
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VIPER GTSR 91

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Why would he sell you something you dont need?? $$$$. Anyone out there have any actual experience with this device?
 

Ron

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Exact questioned answered 4/16/02 by Tom, F&L GoR:

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Sacrificial anode caps have a place in salt water applications, but there are some issues that everyone might want to consider in closed coolant systems.
For the aftermarket radiator caps with sacrificial anodes to work, the fluid must have some measurable "electrical potential." This potential is measurable, but that does not mean it is automatically corrosive, since the coolant should be protecting the metals in the cooling system. Then again, a sacrificial anode is designed to corrode, so it must be made to be reactive enough.

The most vulnerable part of the cooling system is the aluminum in high heat rejecting areas (heads.) High temperatures accelerate the reactivity of the corrosion process and even small potential differences may force a reaction to occur- but again the corrosion inhibitor package determines whether or not there will be corrosion.

That does not mean that the potential for corrosion exists in a normal cooling system since the metal reactivity of the sacrificial cap is so different.

The sacrificial anode works by corroding itself, which has a couple of concerns. One is the location of the anode in the radiator; there will be no benefit to other parts of the cooling system. Then the corrosion products will likely form deposits somewhere else in the cooling system. Deposits like to stick to hot surfaces and deposits on surfaces will enhance corrosion. For the radiator this may only result in plugging. For the heat rejecting surfaces, corrosion under the deposits formed will be likely. For extended life coolants, there is another possible disadvantage: since the inhibitors are free-floating in the coolant, they will deplete much more rapidly (and lose the 5-yr protection.) They will be brought to the highly reactive anode by the flow of the coolant and continually try to protect it instead of the cooling system metals!

Sacrificial anodes are used successfully in salt water applications where there are highly corrosive salts (Cl) which will react (corrode) with the more reactive "anode", typically zinc (perhaps also a Mg alloy?) to protect the cast iron block or outboard. One could make everything out of stainless or other nonreactive metal (and they do) in which case a "zinc" would not be needed. However, in cases where the propeller is made out of nonreactive material (brass, SS), and the rest is made out of cheaper cast iron, then a sacrificial anode completes the corrosion circuit/pathway that would normally be completed by the cast iron pieces and the noble propeller.

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STUGOTS

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Why would he sell you something you dont need?? $$$$. Anyone out there have any actual experience with this device?

Seans not like that, there have been many times when I called him up ready to buy something from him for $500 or over and he has said to me "you dont need that in your application dont buy it"
 

Tom F&L GoR

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Without additive protection, something will eventually rust or corrode. Given all the dissimilar metals in the cooling system, there will be an order of what goes first. The anode radiator cap is made of a particular metal that is prone to corrosion, so it sacrifices it's life for the other metals. The origin of such a cap is in the marine industry, I believe, where unadditized sea or lake water might be used as the coolant (someone that knows please correct me.)

In an automotive application, the anti-freeze coolant has anti-corrosion additives that are designed to prevent corrosion. In green coolant, it has a finite life and you should change it every two-three years. The red, pink or orange coolants have additives that last 5 years or 150,000 miles.

In an automotive application with antifreeze, the additive package will tend to prevent corrosion of the sacrificial anode. After all, that's what the additives are there for. It is conceivable that the additive system will be depleted by protecting the anode and once used up, the cooling system is dependent upon the sacrificial anode to prevent corrosion elsewhere.

So, does it work? Yes.
Does it help? If there isn't any additive system.
Does it hurt? Well, not really, but it may use up the coolant's corrosion protection quicker.
Is it a good idea? Maybe if you can visually notice the anode disappearing then you can track coolant degradation.
Are there side effects? The biggest benefit to the DEXCOOL extended life coolants is not really their longer life, but that the additives are non-silicate and hence there is nothing introduced that abrasively wears out the water pump seal. You might wonder where the anode dissolved metal goes...

I think you'll be better off with good anti-freeze.
 

Ron

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I just found Tom's post. He's the guru.

I have huge respect for Sean and all of his products (ok, all -1). I buy many of them, look forward to buying more and have always been pleased with the quality and how Sean stands behind them. He one of the reasons Viper ownership is so much fun!
 

Ron

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B Snake 1,

Honestly just curious. How are you evaluating the anode's performance?

Thanks
 
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Boats in salt water have zinc's that are dissolved before the prop's and other metals. Electrolysis and electro-motive forces are alive and well. They are electrical circuits most commonly known as batteries. Which exist in a Marine application, car's, lemon with a copper and steel nail connected.
 
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