Best Buffer?

Purdue_Boiler_Viper

Enthusiast
Joined
Jul 20, 2005
Posts
912
Reaction score
2
Location
Indy
Have tried to be a purist and do all waxing and buffing by hand. But, now with a baby don't have the time. Have read horror stories about burning, etc.

OK, you posers. Which is the best buffer, and are there any tips on use? How often do you change the pad?
 

mad0953

Enthusiast
Joined
May 20, 2006
Posts
2,486
Reaction score
0
Location
Southern Oregon
Ditto on the PC. Just got one and tested it out on my Miata b4 it touches the Viper and the 18 year old Mazda looks like it has a new paint job and best of all zero swirls!!!!!
 

Matt M PA

Enthusiast
Joined
Oct 2, 2000
Posts
1,582
Reaction score
0
Location
Langhorne, PA USA
Ditto. Porter Cable....you would be hard pressed to damage your finish with one of these.

For what it's worth, there is a 7424 and 7336. The only difference is the counter weight inside the machine..the 7424 uses a 5" or 5.5" counterweight....the 7336 uses a 6" counterweight which is better suited for polishing.

Also, pick up a 3M Hook-It plate (NOT Hook-It II) and some Meguiars' 6.5" pads. Most likely you will use the finishing and polishing pads most often. Cutting pads are also available.

Lake County makes good pads as well, but Meg's pads and the above mentioned
plate is available at your local auto body supply shop. Or, you can mail order a whole kits form any number of on-line detail stores.

For applying Zaino, I use a finishing pad lightly spritzed with Z6. Buff off with a MF towel or cotton towel.

In my view, you get a better more thorough job, with lots less work.
 

agentf1

Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 27, 2001
Posts
2,608
Reaction score
0
Location
Phila Suburbs
There is also a new ROB being released that is supposed to be even more powerful than the Porter Cable but still a Random Orbitol so you do not need to worry about swirls. I will probably be replacing my Porter Cable with one real soon. Do a search on Autopia for the Ultimate Buffer.
 

RAYSIR

Enthusiast
Joined
Aug 13, 2006
Posts
721
Reaction score
0
Location
Salem, OR
Have tried to be a purist and do all waxing and buffing by hand. But, now with a baby don't have the time. Have read horror stories about burning, etc.

OK, you posers. Which is the best buffer, and are there any tips on use? How often do you change the pad?

Just make sure you have a buffer with variable speed so you can start at low RPM while learning to use it. Just think how slow your hand buff can move and how slow a buffer can go!! There is NO way you can burn with your hand. Just go slow. In order to burn the paint you have to be in 1 spot too long to build up heat(burn). Keep the buffer moving but Slowly!! You can stop and feel the paint getting warm. The most IMPORTANT is to THINK!!! when you are at an edge of the hood or a seam have the circular motion of the buffer PUSHING the material to the edge rather than pulling the edge toward the surface. Always away from the surface with buffer. After you see and understand how to use one it will be full speed. ALSO. only use the foam pads as a NEWBIE. :2tu: OH I also use a Dewalt body shop grade variable speed buffer. Have painted a few cars and was self taught with books and reading posts like these.
 
Last edited:

agentf1

Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 27, 2001
Posts
2,608
Reaction score
0
Location
Phila Suburbs
Just make sure you have a buffer with variable speed so you can start at low RPM while learning to use it. Just think how slow your hand buff can move and how slow a buffer can go!! There is NO way you can burn with your hand. Just go slow. In order to burn the paint you have to be in 1 spot too long to build up heat(burn). Keep the buffer moving but Slowly!! You can stop and feel the paint getting warm. The most IMPORTANT is to THINK!!! when you are at an edge of the hood or a seam have the circular motion of the buffer PUSHING the material to the edge rather than pulling the edge toward the surface. Always away from the surface with buffer. After you see and understand how to use one it will be full speed. ALSO. only use the foam pads as a NEWBIE. :2tu: OH I also use a Dewalt body shop grade variable speed buffer. Have painted a few cars and was self taught with books and reading posts like these.
Excellent advice, always buff off of an edge. Even with a PC you want to be careful on any sharp peaks and edges where the paint is the thinnest. I also use blue painters tape and tape off any trim. edges or whatever you do not want to get polish on or burn through. This is needed more so with the rotary than with the ROB but if you are a newbie it is better safe than sorry. Another thing you wil want to do is try to keep the pad as flat as possible. If you pull up on an angle you create a hot spot and in turn get swirls or even worst possible burn the paint.. You should also only buff until the polish turns clear and then remove the residue with a quality micro fiber towel. If you buff until dry you will produce swirls, even with a foam pad.

Any micro fibers you use on your paint you should test them first on a CD. If they scratch the CD chances are they will scratch your paint. There are a lot of cheap/bad micro fibers on the market.
 

RaceDeck

Enthusiast
Joined
Apr 7, 2002
Posts
265
Reaction score
0
Location
SLC, Utah. USA
The Cyclo has been around a long time and is a great machine. The Porter 7424 is also a great orbital buffer ( Jorgens Shine Shop also sells the 7424), but if you use them side by side, there really is no comparison ( it's like using a Harbour Freight socket set compared to a Snap On set).. Plus it is just a much cooler looking tool to have in your arsenal. :)

The GT you see in the picture was done with the Dual Head
 

ViperJay

Viper Owner
Joined
Jun 7, 2007
Posts
705
Reaction score
6
Location
Rhode Island
does anyone have experience with the griot's ROB and their polishes? i was thinking of buying their kit.
 

ViperTony

Enthusiast
Joined
Apr 3, 2006
Posts
7,554
Reaction score
0
does anyone have experience with the griot's ROB and their polishes? i was thinking of buying their kit.

I haven't tried their ROB, I use the Porter Cable, but I have tried their polishes. All of them Machine Polish I-IV. They work very well on my BMW but didn't do squat on the Viper as far as removing fine scratches and swirl marks. It could be my Viper as I think my paint is uber thick and seems incredibly ******* my '01. I ended up using 3M polishes which worked well for me. Griot's is worth a try since you can send it back if you're not satisfied. I did.

- Tony
 

Paul Hawker

Enthusiast
Joined
Oct 1, 2000
Posts
4,660
Reaction score
0
Location
San Diego, Calif, USA
Dittos on the Porter Cable.

Now worries about burning and you tend to use 1/2 the wax/polish.

Does a much better job with 1/2 the work of using your hand.

I still buff off the dried wax/polish by hand.
 

ViperJay

Viper Owner
Joined
Jun 7, 2007
Posts
705
Reaction score
6
Location
Rhode Island
is your viper factory paint? looking at the stress crack on my hood i think my viper paint is thick too.


I haven't tried their ROB, I use the Porter Cable, but I have tried their polishes. All of them Machine Polish I-IV. They work very well on my BMW but didn't do squat on the Viper as far as removing fine scratches and swirl marks. It could be my Viper as I think my paint is uber thick and seems incredibly ******* my '01. I ended up using 3M polishes which worked well for me. Griot's is worth a try since you can send it back if you're not satisfied. I did.

- Tony
 

Viper X

Former VCA National President
VCA Officer
Joined
May 1, 2004
Posts
3,471
Reaction score
2
ViperJay,

Yes, Griots is a Porter Cable. Very nice product and product line. The have the hook and loop polishing pads for wax and polish and it's hard to beat their polishes.

I really like their #4 polish and paint sealant on my black SRT-10.

Good stuff!

Dan
 

ViperJay

Viper Owner
Joined
Jun 7, 2007
Posts
705
Reaction score
6
Location
Rhode Island
thanks dan, i think im going to give them a try.


ViperJay,

Yes, Griots is a Porter Cable. Very nice product and product line. The have the hook and loop polishing pads for wax and polish and it's hard to beat their polishes.

I really like their #4 polish and paint sealant on my black SRT-10.

Good stuff!

Dan
 

Art 138

Enthusiast
Joined
Aug 16, 2004
Posts
1,065
Reaction score
0
Location
Davie,FL
Based on feedback on this forum, I bought the Ultimate Buffer from Autopia; it is a very well balanced machine. It has the same feel of the Porter Cable but higher range of rpms. I tried it out on a fender and am very satisfied. Customer service from Autopia was excellent.....
 

Vipers9500

Viper Owner
Joined
Apr 21, 2005
Posts
12
Reaction score
0
Dittos on the Porter Cable.

Now worries about burning and you tend to use 1/2 the wax/polish.

Does a much better job with 1/2 the work of using your hand.

I still buff off the dried wax/polish by hand.

Same here with the Porter Cable 7424. I've been using the same unit for the last 4 years witithout a single problem.

It is much more efficent in terms of even application, covering greater surface area and time savings compared to hand.

To remove, I'll use a microfiber polishing bonnet placed over top of the orange foam buffing pad for residue removal. Its burnishing effect leaves the surface cleaner with a more reflective finish.
 

PDCjonny

Enthusiast
Joined
Nov 2, 2004
Posts
5,999
Reaction score
3
More than just the machine, you have to select the right pad and the right polish. There is a range of pads for varying jobs as well as all kinds of polishes, some more abrasive than others. I think I have tried them all. I wouldn't worry to much about an Porter Cable hurting your paint, you can stand on it and it will not go through the clear. Viper clear is hard as a rock. By the way, if your scratches are deep you won't take them out with a orbital buffer. You can knock down the edges and hide them somewhat, but they will be back. An orbital will not cut the clear coats.

On the other hand, a rotary buffer will take out the deep scratches but can also burn the paint if done improperly. Best to stay away from that unless you really know what you are doing.
 
OP
OP
P

Purdue_Boiler_Viper

Enthusiast
Joined
Jul 20, 2005
Posts
912
Reaction score
2
Location
Indy
More than just the machine, you have to select the right pad and the right polish. There is a range of pads for varying jobs as well as all kinds of polishes, some more abrasive than others. I think I have tried them all. I wouldn't worry to much about an Porter Cable hurting your paint, you can stand on it and it will not go through the clear. Viper clear is hard as a rock. By the way, if your scratches are deep you won't take them out with a orbital buffer. You can knock down the edges and hide them somewhat, but they will be back. An orbital will not cut the clear coats.

On the other hand, a rotary buffer will take out the deep scratches but can also burn the paint if done improperly. Best to stay away from that unless you really know what you are doing.

Hey Jon,

What do you recommend for pads and polish?

Thanks!
 

agentf1

Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 27, 2001
Posts
2,608
Reaction score
0
Location
Phila Suburbs
Hey Jon,

What do you recommend for pads and polish?

Thanks!

I like Zaino ZPC and Menzerna's polishes. My favorite is Menzerna PO106FF and their FPII is also very good. If you need to get it locally I recommend 3M 39009.

As far as pads go I like Lake Country White Polishing pads, Meguiars Yellow or Tan and Edge Blue or Green pads all work well with a ROB. Do not get too aggressive of a pad for your ROB as it will introduce micro marring to your finish which is very hard to remove with a ROB. My theory is if you need a cutting pad on your ROB you really should be using a rotary. A ROB is great for restoring the gloss to your finish but are not that great for removing anything more than mild to moderate swirls at best. I am a firm believer in using the proper tools for the job and for any significant paint defects you WILL need a rotary. JMHO

I hope this helps.
 

CROM

Viper Owner
Joined
Jan 18, 2004
Posts
999
Reaction score
0
Location
Fairfax, VA
Significant defects I agree, however I've gotten out some pretty nasty stuff on cars with a yellow cutting pad an 3M Perfect It III + 3M Swirl mark remover. I took a swirl marked, scratched to **** car and made it beautiful. No Viper should need a Rotary.

Ive ordered pads from several vendors. Lake Country makes great pads. I've found that many pads are created equal. Just make sure you have a cutting pad (typically yellow), 2 polishing pads (typically white) and a grey or blue pad for applying wax if you wish to do it by machine. I always apply Zaino and the rest of the waxes by hand.

Honestly the best polish combination I have found is the 3M Perfect It III with the Swirl Mark remover. I have some Zaino PC that I have yet to use. I've tried several brands and if done correctly the 3M looks the best. I usually follow this up with Clearkote Vanilla Moose and several Coats of Z2.
 

agentf1

Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 27, 2001
Posts
2,608
Reaction score
0
Location
Phila Suburbs
Somebody just was telling me about the Makita BO6040 and it looks like an AWESOME machine. It is an Orbital like the Porter Cable and UDM but also has an option where it goes into rotary modes and spins but yet still orbits helping to eliminate holograms and has much more power than the PC and UDM. I am definitely going to look into getting one and wish I say this before picking up my rotary. I will let you know what I think when I pick it up.
 
Top