Dry Sump systems shipping now!

[WESTCOAST JASON]

Finally out of the CNC shop! Our dry sump systems are available in kit form at $5000 for what is pictured. You would still need to add a tank and lines and seal the top of your engine. (this pulls 15 inches of vaccum in the engine, that makes power) Your motor can then be mounted lower in the frame for a better CG and you will pick up RWHP (about 40 on a cam/head car).

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[BYT U L8R]

I had a chance to stop by and look at this system. INCREDIBLE workmanship! It had hardly any weight to it, and it's a 5 stage pump...HUGE!! The pictures don't do it justice, but the "oil pan" is bairly over an inch thick.

It's almost a shame to put it on a car. It should be framed and put on a wall...but I did say "almost a shame"

 

[WESTCOAST JASON]

I feel the same way about the heads we are putting on the car. A shame to cover up such a gorgeous piece of artwork...

 

[WESTCOAST JASON]

We have another dry sump sold and being installed right now in the shop. This time I got a base line dyno and will post the before and after numbers that will show the gains. This car has no other mods being done at the same time so the numbers will be a fair representation of what to expect.

 

[Qualitywires.com]

looks great! I maybe interested. What kind of damper are you ising? Is it the same size as the stock or are the specs different in size and offset?

 

[kverges]

What does the sump tank look like and where does it go?

 

[WESTCOAST JASON]

We are using an ATI dampner, both size and offset are different from stock so the cog drive works into the equation. The sump tank fits in the dead area behind the passenger side rear wheel. (like where the battery goes, but the other side) I will post a pic of the tank when I get another opportunity to photo it. It is a custom aluminum enclosure with internal baffling, spinning and aids the system in reaching its approx. 20 quart capacity.

 

[TorQ Junkie]

Question: How does a dry sump work and why does it make more power? What are the expected gains on an engine with the usual upgrades (intake, rockers, exhaust), but stock heads?

Will dropping the engine lower create more drivetrain wear?

 

[WESTCOAST JASON]

The dry sump deletes the oil pan and replaces it with a plate that has a windage tray style design. Very shallow and with passages that '****' oil from the crankcase, the entire unit creates a vacuum in the motor. Without digging out the text books, the main advantage (besides PERFECT oiling at any G Load or vehicle angle) is that a vaccum is created in the crank case. This allows the pistons and the crank to operate in the void of any pressures during downstrokes and rotation, etc. The horsepower gains from this (although a by-product of the primary use) are about 40 at the wheels on a car with cam, heads, etc. We have not installed one on a car that is otherwise stock, so I am not sure if it would make the same gain or less. The ability to lower the engine like in the GTS-R may put a higher load on the U joint at the front of the driveshaft but I can't see how it would affect anything else. In an engine lowering scenario, the front of the motor is dropped more than the rear so that the bell housing still is above the frame rails. This makes the rear of the trans actually point slightly up. (making the drive shaft point down, maybe (?) causing additional wear on the U joint - but obviously good enough for LeMans...)

 

[WESTCOAST JASON]

Updated pics of the shipping version. We also have a newly designed pulley set, pics will be updated in that thread.

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[WESTCOAST JASON]

The pricing on the sump kit is $5583 now. Email for details.

 

[FE 065]

You don't say if this is a race only item.

Would it be prudent to replace the fool-proof OEM system and drive around on the street with your oil system dependent on that belt staying on? (for example)

While sealing the top end of the engine, have you found anywhere that allows vacuum leaks that normally you wouldn't expect? Dipstick tube and PCV ports are obvious..anywhere else??

 

[WESTCOAST JASON]

We have two cars in the shop getting the system installed right now and they are both street cars. The system is super reliable. Keep in mind, it was originally engineered for the GTS-R and those had to be beaten hard for 24 hours without failure. Things like putting the cog pulley for the pump BEHIND the balancer keeps it from every being able to be thrown off. The 5 stage pump is also the same as on the GTS-R, nothing new being 'tested' here. Someone looking for this, whether it be a track or street car, is someone actually more worried about the stock setup. Even a hard run at a fwy on-ramp can cause momentary lubrication starvation. With a drysump those on/off ramps have a worry stripped away. This is a double bonus fix, you get no more high G worries and added power! The engine must be sealed of course, the dipstick tube is actually not used. The oil is in a resevoir tank, so we seal the dipstick tube hole. All PCV and vent holes are capped. We also make billet valve covers for those who dont want to cap the holes. (but the system '*****' the caps on and there is no worries of blowing them off) Valve cover gaskets from the factory are GREAT for this setup since they are metal. Stay tuned for more cool product releases!

 

[FranciscoR.]

This is by no means to sound rude, but why does it seem so expensive ?

 

[WESTCOAST JASON]

The detail involved in setting up is no different than if we were making them for a production car or just making one. Since we can't expect to sell 1000 of them, the up front costs must be spread over a smaller amount of kits. Really is the bummer about all things Viper related. Had we been in the Mustang business for example we could be making the kits for a third or less I would imagine...

 

[FranciscoR.]

What exactly does a dry sump ( or this one in particular ) do better then a " normal " one ?

 

[WESTCOAST JASON]

Not sure what you mean by a normal dry sump. There are two types we have used on the Viper, so I think that is what you mean. The original style we used was taking the factory pan and converting it to dry. This was done by plumbing it and using a lot of internal pickups to **** the oil out. By definition, that is more of a dry sump conversion kit, it works well, but does not do the job perfectly. Oil can still fall to the pan and take a bit to be 'scavenged' out. The new style we have is the exact same as that used on a GTS-R. The GTS-R unit uses the flat pan that has simple oil channels in it. No oil can accumulate anywhere, and the system is therefor more efficient. The oil will stay cooler and the volume/pressure will remain constant for its given RPM. Another advantage is the ability to lower the engine. The lowering of the engine of course lowers the CG of the car. Hope that helps explain it.