Motor Rebuild

[FRANK]

Power steering lines? Any other reccomendations? What about motor mounts too? How about tranny mounts? Ball joints? I'd definitely check them out...hey while the motor is out...do it now, right Jon - especially considering the car probably has under 20,000 miles.

 

[Ron]

<FONT face="Comic Sans MS">Jon,
What are the benefits of the aluminum flywheel. I assume there are also downsides / tradeoffs? Is the clutch surface also aluminium also or is there a steel insert for wear purposes?

Thanks!
</FONT f>

 

[Marv S]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Ron:
<FONT face="Comic Sans MS">Jon,
What are the benefits of the aluminum flywheel. Is the clutch surface also aluminium also or is there a steel insert for wear purposes?</FONT f>

Here's some things I have observed as well as some great info from Erik Messley on flywheels:

The lightweight flywheels out there have steel inserts. The McLeod (~16 lbs.)is most common and, if ever needed like from lots of drag racing, McLeod will replace the insert for a modest fee if you send it to them. The TNT flywheel insert can be replaced at the track, by the user, if you have a spare insert with you. The TNT may use bolts that differ from stock (use new bolts) & The TNT flywheel is about 1 pound heavier than the McLeod.

Check out Sean Roe's prices.

If you replace the flywheel I recommend having it balanced, then mark it and the pressure plate and balance them as a unit. The flywheels are usually VERY well balanced, but the pressure plate may not be. E-mail me if you want more detail on how this is done.

<FONT COLOR="blue">The following is from a post made many months ago by Erik Messley that has lots of good info:</FONT c>

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> <BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted long ago by Erik Messley:
We did change the flywheel to a number of lighter versions. For street use, staying around 40 lbs total weight (flywheel, pressure plate, friction disc) is very nice.....much crisper throttle response, improved engine braking, not difficult starting from a stop, no appreciable surging problems, and a marked improvement in the twisty road sections coming out of corners, etc. For a combo of track and street use, with a bit more emphasis on track usage, a 30 lb total weight will dramatically improve throttle response, etc.. Track times will be markedly improved due to the improved responsiveness and initial acceleration between corners and improved engine braking (the rear brakes are a bit wimpy for track usage and the flywheel/engine combo helps balance the car a bit better under braking). Downside is a bit harder to start from a stop, and a much smoother throttle foot is necessary to keep the car from surging at constant speeds while cruising down the freeway. For track usage, a combined weight of 20 lbs or so is wonderful. Throttle response is instantaneous, engine braking remarkable, and acceleration markedly improved. Keeping the MOI (moment of inertia) as low as possible is the key. The stock combination has a MOI of over 1950 lbs! (highest I've ever measured on a car!). A good carbon/carbon triple disk will be in the 175 lb range. You wouldn't want to try one of these on the street as stop and go driving will wear them out extremely quickly, starting from a stop is a bit touchy, plus the engine revs so quickly that without race type rubber, first and second gears are pretty useless (it just spins the tires.......kinda fun, but not very practical!). For the money, a lightened flywheel is an extremely good value for the overall performance gained. You do need to be honest with yourself as to the actual usage of the car prior to your selection though. Too light for your application or tolerance level will definitely result in disappointment. Hope this information helps you. Erik Messley


Stock clutch with McCleod flywheel makes an excellent street driver and will certainly help on the track as well. If memory serves me correctly, the total weight ends up right around 50 lbs. I haven't done the actual MOI of this combination, but since you are taking a large amount of the flywheel weight off of the outer edges (aluminum vs steel) I would conservatively guess that the MOI would fall around the 1500 lb range or roughly a 25% improvement. It's definitely noticeable but very tractible/drivable. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE> <FONT COLOR="blue"><u>Marv_S_(AzViper1)</u> </FONT c>

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<FONT COLOR="#ff0000" SIZE="1" FACE="Verdana, Arial">This message has been edited by Marv S on December 13, 2000 at 09:32</font>

 

[Ron]

<FONT face="Comic Sans MS">Exactly the information I was looking for Marv, thank you (and Erik)</FONT f>

 

[Sean Roe]

The exact weight of the aluminum flywheel we offer when used with a stock pressure plate and disc is 47 lbs. Like the one TNT sells, ours uses countersunk bolts for the insert and you can change it yourself if you wanted to (only a consideration when changing clutches). See our web catalog for this months sale price of $449.95, or see my post in the suppliers section.
Roe Racing Online Catalog

 

[RickV2K]

do the H.D. clutch/flywheel thingy........you won't regret it. only problem is launching the car (missle)... but from a roll.....yowser! and if you plan on racin....... H.D. ½ shafts for a little added protection.

 

[Jay Herbert]

While you're at it, and since you are talking power steering lines already, I'm thinking your car is before the power steering cooler was added.... you may want to do that at the same time.... and upgrade the radiator fan

 

[VardaMan]

When you are taking delivery of the car make sure that you fully inspect it BEFORE driving away. Have the dealer put it up on the hoist and check for fuel, oil & antifreeze leaks with the motor off & running. Also check the lower edge of your windshield, above the motor for any chips or cracks. Also check the heater air box for damage. If you have AC, run it to make sure that is fully charged and cools the car. I did not do any of these things and was screwed on all of them by the local worthless Five-Star dealer. I made many calls to the almost worthless DC 800#, it took ~ 9 months to get all the problems fixed & it did cost me $500.
BEWARE!