MY 2 cents on 09-10 skip shift issue

[PeterMJ]

Since the other thread regarding this subject apparently died and I got flamed for asking about updates, I decided to get off my behind and start another one.

I got the solenoid from VPA. After giving this a little thought, I decided to use something different than cut off bottle neck. Still rigged but at least I think it is pretty solid when put together.

Here is a solenoid, a piece of PVC pipe for spacer and 1/2 threaded pipe cap. By some weird coincidence, the threads line up with the threads on the solenoids enough to thread the cap on the solenoid. Not the same thread or diameter and it threads on only half way but enough to stay securely on the solenoid. I was trying to find the right diameter at the hardware store to use a metal coupler but somehow could not, oh well. The good thing is the plastic thread will not damage the thread on the solenoid and the cap stays very securely on the solenoid.

The spacer is a piece of PVC tubing to provide sufficient clearance for the actuator to extend. I measured, the actuator arm extends about 3/8, I gave it another 1/3 inch just in case...

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The spacer fits very snug, I cut it where there is just enough threads exposed on the solenoid for the cap to grab and tighten but still provide enough clearance for the actuator.

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Everything fits very snug and secure. I wrapped my rigged set up in aluminum foil to partially cover the rigging and to provide some protection for the cap and spacer and solenoid itself, especially the actuator part.

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I guess this is all for now. I'll install it on the car on Thursday.

 

[CaptainDavid]

Excellent solution Peter ! BTW I've put around 1500 miles on the Viper since this install. Still no codes works great !!! When we installed mine we had to use what was at hand, the car was on the lift, belly pan removed.... Next time I go back under I will implement your solution. P.S. the stone guards are great..

 

[PeterMJ]

Excellent solution Peter ! BTW I've put around 1500 miles on the Viper since this install. Still no codes works great !!! When we installed mines we had to use what was at hand, the car was on the lift, belly pan removed.... Next time I go back under I will implement your solution. P.S. the stone guards are great..

110 degrees where I live, gotta wait for the day when I can install this in the morning (tomorrow). Thus, I had some time to figure things out. Your initial comments gave me a good starting point.

I have a question for you regarding the solenoid, not sure if I am too analytical or what but nevertheless... I noticed that the spring loaded actuator is held in place by a retaining clip, how strong do you think is that clip? I was thinking about using a piece that would have an opening big enough to allow the actuator to move but press against the clip at the same time to support it and preventing it from popping out. Am I too paranoid here? Also, I yanked on the actuator with my fingers to estimate extended length, until it bottomed out. When it is operated electrically, this is as far as it goes, right? Just making sure it will not be bottoming out against the cap.

I am glad to hear it is all good, I cannot wait to try it out.

 

[CaptainDavid]

Yes, try to prevent the actuator from popping out. ( the logic behind the bottle cap and your pvc solution). We just kinda zip tied the solenoid to the frame, popped a bottle cap on it and reinstalled the belly pan. I will redo this in the near future using your pvc idea. But it works, not sure I can completely explain why, but it works. Cheers

 

[PeterMJ]

Yes, try to prevent the actuator from popping out. ( the logic behind the bottle cap and your pvc solution). We just kinda zip tied the solenoid to the frame, popped a bottle cap on it and reinstalled the belly pan. I will redo this in the near future using your pvc idea. But it works, not sure I can completely explain why, but it works. Cheers

I was actually talking about the retaining clip (copper colored) that holds the actuator rod in the body of the solenoid. There is a way to make a piece that when you screw it on the body of the solenoid, can hold the retaining clip in place while allowing the rod to still move (imagine a cap/coupler with a hole in the center, screwed on the solenoid, all the way down to the solenoid, with a threaded top and another cap screwed on to it. Do you think something like this may be necessary or what it is right now is good enough?

 

[CaptainDavid]

I was actually talking about the retaining clip (copper colored) that holds the actuator rod in the body of the solenoid. There is a way to make a piece that when you screw it on the body of the solenoid, can hold the retaining clip in place while allowing the rod to still move (imagine a cap/coupler with a hole in the center, screwed on the solenoid, all the way down to the solenoid, with a threaded top and another cap screwed on to it. Do you think something like this may be necessary or what it is right now is good enough?

I don't think it necessary but will forward this thread to Mike Robbins who originated this skip shift solution.................................will advise!

 

[PeterMJ]

Already in-works like a charm. Got up early this morning anticipating removal of the belly pan but did not have to. Plenty of room. I tied the solenoid to the wiring harness, everything looks pretty secured. Took me longer to jack up the car than install the dummy solenoid. I intentionally kept tripping off the skip shift many times and everything works flawlessly. I am very grateful for this solution and assistance.

 

[Black Adder]

Peter
You say you didnt have to remove the belly pan, can you expand please?

 

[PeterMJ]

Peter
You say you didnt have to remove the belly pan, can you expand please?

I had enough access to remove the plug from the tranny. Maybe I have skinny hands? LOL...

 

[Black Adder]

So how did you "go in" if you know what I mean? Can I do the same by just jacking up one side of the car? The only thing stopping me doing this is removing the belly pan as its such a hassle on jack stands in your driveway.

 

[PeterMJ]

Here is a picture. Unfortunately it is too cramped to take a better one and my finger got in the way but both the plug on the tranny and dummy solenoid can be seen (both are wrapped in aluminum tape)

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[PeterMJ]

So how did you "go in" if you know what I mean? Can I do similar by just jacking up one side of the car? The only thing stopping me doing this is remeoving the belly pan as its such a hassle on jack stands in your driveway.

I did this on the floor in my garage, using jackstands... Agreed that bellypan removal is a big PIA, just because it is so long.

 

[Black Adder]

Cool, thanks. I'll try that first when I get the parts from VPA

 

[BLEBYU]

[FONT=&quot]I was involved in the skip shift ideal on captain’s car. Since the PCM is reading resistance of the solenoid I would not modify the solenoid in any way. This might be over thinking the solution. As far as the spring pressure, I have no Idea. I like the pvc fix, the only change is, that looks to be cold water only pvc. I think hot and cold pvc may last longer in the extreme temps in the belly pan area. I would even consider galvanized pipe for longevity.
Looks great!
Blebyu[/FONT]

 

[PeterMJ]

[FONT="]I was involved in the skip shift ideal on captain’s car. Since the PCM is reading resistance of the solenoid I would not modify the solenoid in any way. This might be over thinking the solution. As far as the spring pressure, I have no Idea. I like the pvc fix, the only change is, that looks to be cold water only pvc. I think hot and cold pvc may last longer in the extreme temps in the belly pan area. I would even consider galvanized pipe for longevity.
Looks great!
Blebyu[/FONT]

Thank you for being part of this solution, you have no idea how good it feels to see the shift light coming on and still being able to shift in the second, LOL. I was actually going to go with copper but could not find a threaded cap to pull it off. Iron fittings are pretty heavy and I was concerned with the extra weight since this is attached to a wiring harness. If I recall now, my tubing that I used for the spacer is actually CPVC since I was using it for a part of my hot water supply and it is schedule 40. I was pretty generous with the aluminum tape to at least reflect some of the heat. I actually did not see any evidence of substantial heat being present around that area, I do not think the original wiring harness that is there is heat resistant. I'll be checking periodically though to make sure everything is in tact, if there is a problem, I think a thermal sleeve could help.

BTW, I was not going to modify the solenoid, just provide the support for the retaining clip holding the actuator in place but after thinking a bit, it seems that when the solenoid is screwed in the tranny, it has no support either. I am a civil engineer in real life and that most likely explains why I worry too much and overanalyze, LOL.