My DIY twin turbo build..

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AndyMac

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when did canadian beer get stronger :dunno:

AFAIK, it has always been that way. I know when I go state side, the beer goes down like water. Canada and the US calculate the alcohol content differently which is why you get 4% on your cans while we get 5% on ours. If calculated the same, I think Canada is still in the lead, but not by a meaningful amount.

Either way, a moot point in this thread.
 
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AndyMac

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Got the drivers side turbo mounted..

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EGT and AFR gauges

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EGT probe and AFR sensor bungs welded in. (that is an old A/F sensor for fitment purposes)

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Going to try and mount the FMIC tomorrow.
 
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AndyMac

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One step closer.

Intercooler mounted. Had to move the oil cooler back a bit so the intercooler would clear the bumper.
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Discharge side.
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Charge pipe to the motor. Cheap couplers until I can find suitable 3 ply yellow units.
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Here is my DIY bead roller for cheap ass ebay intercooler pipe. Not my design/idea, and took 30 seconds to make.

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24 days till she's legal for the road again!
 

Rich T

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Did you make the turbo manifolds yourself? id like to see a pic or two of the manifolds if you took any. nice build btw
 

ThePersicutor

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This looks like an awesome project,good job. Keep the pics coming. Question for you, How are you going to feed oil to the turbos?
 
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AndyMac

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I actually just got back to working on it again this week. I got a stellar deal on a used WRX, so I spent the last month fixing/painting it for resale. Sold in less than a week. Now it's time to get this thing done!
 
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AndyMac

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I actually had the car running (in the garage) but ran into a couple problems.

The first issue was not able to get my modified injectors to seal in my friends flow bench. So, not too big of a deal, just need to find some new o-rings to fit the adapters and injectors. (still running stock injectors, idle time in garage only)

The second issue is a little more of a pain. I decided to go with a turbo werx oil scavenge pump. They claimed that one pump would evac two turbos, and it may have in the right conditions, but not in my situation.

Running the car for about a minute resulted in a large quantity of oil being pushed by the turbo seals. I'm going to get a second evac pump and redesign my drain lines.

Either way, the weather is too nice to have the car laid up to work on it, so I dropped the turbos and put the exhaust back in. I can get the turbo setup back on in a few hours, but it will have to wait till I get the injectors sorted out and get a second oil pump mounted.

Later,
 

Russ M

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Andy,

From what I understand the turbo werx pump is by far the best on the market. What size restirctors did you use? What size feed/drain lines do you have?

Make sure there is no leaks in the system, if you get a leak it starts to **** air into the line and that causes the oil to back up.
 

Phun70

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Watching this thread with great interest. I have a kit for installing twin turbos, exactly like a friends successful kit, and I am looking forward to the install. He used twin scavenge pumps and they work very well. He came up with 1100 horsepower but has it tuned back to about 750 at the wheels in his 99 rt/10. He was "accidentaly" spinning the tires at over 100 mph on the highway so he decided to turn it down. I hope to perform my own twin turbo install next year after I purchase the rest of my parts. Right now, I'm concentrating on my second Viper that I purchased last week. Good luck with your install.
 
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AndyMac

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Russ M - I used .060 restrictors on the first try, and .039 on the second. Neither worked. I ran 1/2" lines from the turbos to a "T" right before the pump inlet with a 1/2" line to the valve cover. I thought that it would be more than adequate, but I was incorrect.

These turbos on my last car drained well with similar oil pressure but a 1/2" drain straight down to the oil pan.

I was going to build an expansion chamber below the turbos, but got lazy. Also, the lines come off the turbo and do a 90* turn up and over the frame rails. This could also have a negative effect. I don't think there are any leaks in my oil scavenge lines, as it would have left some puddles after the pump stopped.

NSviper - I'm not really into car shows, so I don't imagine I will.

Phun70 - Thanks, I'm really looking forward to having the project done.
 

dansauto

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Russ M - I used .060 restrictors on the first try, and .039 on the second. Neither worked. I ran 1/2" lines from the turbos to a "T" right before the pump inlet with a 1/2" line to the valve cover. I thought that it would be more than adequate, but I was incorrect.

These turbos on my last car drained well with similar oil pressure but a 1/2" drain straight down to the oil pan.

I was going to build an expansion chamber below the turbos, but got lazy. Also, the lines come off the turbo and do a 90* turn up and over the frame rails. This could also have a negative effect. I don't think there are any leaks in my oil scavenge lines, as it would have left some puddles after the pump

Phun70 - Thanks, I'm really looking forward to having the project done.

you need to run check valves before and after the turbo, you getting oil pooling in the turbos.
 
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AndyMac

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you need to run check valves before and after the turbo, you getting oil pooling in the turbos.

The oil is blowing by the turbo seals during operation, not after the fact. Even after I shut the motor down, I kept the pump running for 5 minutes.

To me, check valves are only going to help after the engine is shut down, and will not help anything during operation.

Thanks for the input,
 

Russ M

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Andy,

Dansauto is correct what happens on a viper is that when engine is turned off the oil drains from the heads right into the turbo's. Not sure why that is cause one would think going to the oil pan would be easier, but it happens.

Your return lines are too big, remember you want the pump to be able to scavenge, I had a similar issue on a viper which needed to use scavenge pumps on a tt build.
 
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AndyMac

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I understand that when the engine is shut off that oil pressure will continue to be fed to the turbos, which is why I continue to run my scavenge pump after the engine is shut off. (turbo timer) I didn't have the timer hooked up at the time so I put the pump to 12 volts constant (key on or off).

When I started the car for the first time after getting the turbos installed, I had the pump running and had the car running for about 1 minute until I noticed that oil was dripping out of my V-band connections just after the turbos on both sides. (had side sills off)

In my mind, check valves wouldn't help this particular situation since the motor and scavenge pump are both running. I'm not saying I won't need check valves, but I don't think they'll affect my current issue. If I had a problem of the car smoking after sitting for a bit between starting/stopping the motor, I would agree 100%.

On the return line size, that had crossed my mind. What would you suggest for line sizes from the turbo to pump, and pump to valve cover?

Again, I appreciate your guys input, as you've both been there.

Thanks,
 
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One pump will work. Are you certain the pump is not running backwards? I'm sure you have checked this already.

Make sure you don't have "tight" radius 90 degree drain tube bends too close to the bottom of the turbos. You can utilize the 90s but you have to have some room for oil to escape from the cartridges so installing the 90s a little lower with bigger holes needs to be done. You can drill the oil drain flanges, this will help. You can go to Advance and purchase 1/2" heater hose barbs and weld fittings on them. It will be enough to carry the oil away from the cartridge.

If you can mount the scavenge pump a little closer to the turbos and keeping the suction on the SAME level or lower than the turbos is a must!! After the pump you can feed the valve covers but keep the hose from tight bends.

I wish you great success and hope this helps!

Doug
 

dansauto

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The oil is blowing by the turbo seals during operation, not after the fact. Even after I shut the motor down, I kept the pump running for 5 minutes.

To me, check valves are only going to help after the engine is shut down, and will not help anything during operation.

Thanks for the input,

I had the same problem, trust me and put the check valves in. they also restrict a little. Oil runs down hill on both sides and will always collect in the lowest point (your turbo) even if you run the pumps a while there is still alot of oil in the lines, Kind of like when you use a funnel and oil drips out for hours, now imagine all that line dripping downhill. Does your car "smoke" when just running? If not then your restritors are working fine and the problem is what I am describing.
 
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AndyMac

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Doug Supercharged Vipers - Thanks for the response and ideas. I am quite certain the pump is flowing in the right direction. My new plan is to mount a second pump on the opposite frame rail, both are lower than the turbo. The drains will go straight down and run through the very bottom of the frame into the pump on the other side. I figure that this should eliminate any and all issues related to the return system.

dansauto - It's hard to believe that much oil drains down after shut-down. I will invest in some check valves, what opening pressure/size do you recommend?

And yes, my turbos only spew oil while the engine is running and oil pressure is being fed to the turbos.

I think we've figured out what I need to do now to perfect my turbo oiling system.

Thanks,
 

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