Need a CRANKSHAFT?

Viper Specialty

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I have a VERY nice Gen-4 crank laying around. What does that mean to you?

1. Direct replacement for any 2008-2010 crankshaft

2. drop-in Usable in a 2003-2004 SRT-10, they do not read off the crank trigger wheel, so they are able to use this crank. [difference in wheels is only major difference] Cars with aftermarket EMS can drill the block and use the trigger wheel like 05-06 [see #3]

3. Upgrade for 2005-2006 cars using an AEM, Motec, or Pectel EMS. The Gen-4 Trigger Wheel is MUCH better than the older cars, offering more precise timing and fuel calculations, and more power/more stable engine as a result. The aftermarket EMS can read this new wheel.

4. Use this crankshaft to make a Stroker Gen-2: from 3.88 to 3.96, no offset grinding. [Would require the use of AEM, Motec, or Pectel to read the new trigger wheel, but has the advantages listed in #3 as well!]

Crankshaft, 08-10 Viper SRT-10 03-06 UPGD 96-02 STROKER : eBay Motors (item 220565524518 end time Mar-12-10 19:29:36 PST)


Oh... and I have plenty of other auctions up there too. 55 to be exact. :2tu:
 
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Viper Specialty

Viper Specialty

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Any mods you can do to make it better/lighter without loosing strength? :eater:


Lets see...

Just off the top of my head, we can do any of the following:

-Gun Drill the rod journals a bit more
-Reduce/chamfer or knife edge the counterweights
-Take material out of low-stress areas
-Change bearing diameters [similar to GTSR]
-Nitride
-Double Key
-Re-balance
 
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Send me a PM with a quote for the entire job and part, what kind of differences do you think I would feel if I went to all this expense?
 
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Send me a PM with a quote for the entire job and part, what kind of differences do you think I would feel if I went to all this expense?


If you want my honest opinion, I only mentioned it because you had asked. Is it worth the money to do by itself? HELL NO. Only if done in combination with a specific engine philosophy.

Double keying, balancing and nitriding benefit certain engine configurations, and longer life. Smaller being diameters will reduce linear bearing speed and allow for increased rev-range, but only if the rest of the engine is changed to allow the same. Reducing the crank weight will free up a few horsepower, but nothing monumental, and knife-edging will only free up power once you get near redline... it doesn't do much until 5500rpm+, and we are only talking single digits here.

I would sooner tell you take the same kind of money and put it towards a Pectel EMS, and gain full control over your engine, along with trac and launch, digital dash, the ability to TT or SC without hassles, etc...
 
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The first 1000.00 even takes this crank! Thats almost ONE QUARTER of what it costs new! For a NINE HUNDRED mile crank!
 
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