TOOOFST dyno results

TOOOFST

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Early this year @ VCA dyno day TOOOFST was TOOSLOW with K&N's/rear sub assly=385rwhp.Todays results with Belangers(nice product(through John B.)=428.2rwhp/466.4TQ.
Here's the Beef:

Nitrous:559.2rwhp/706.3TQ
This run was with Roe computer @0-0(stock).Other runs with roe computer set @-16(high) showed 25to5hp increase from mid to [email protected] nitrous @ lower jettings (100shot),roe set @ +4(high) gained a respectable 22hp and 17TQ.Nitrous set-up pics soon!
 
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TOOOFST

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Top Gun is the Kit.Initial install 3-4hrs.After that removal/install 15min.& she's Wet.
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Paolo Castellano

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Scott, I am still floored with that torque #, It is amazing! I cannot believe I have been against putting on the juice up until I saw those #'s. You have to give me a ride this thursday @ uno's. Congrats! Paolo
 

Chuck 97 GTS

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Congrats Scotty Tooofast! Sounds like you have that thing dialed. That torque number is outta control!! I wonder why the torque increase is so dramatic when compared to HP. Maybe one of the nitrous gurus can explain it to us common folk.

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TOOOFST

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Had to give my viper buds a ride tonight,Paolo/chucko 97'.Turns out I broke another throttle cable.Going back to my c-clip I fabed on the highway from a coat hanger.The dyno pulls were done with a nasty mix of 93/92,meant to get some 100/104 or some octane boost but it all happened TOOOFST.Good news,no detonation detected.Hope I didn't scare the vette boys away,some nice c-5's showed up.
 

treynor

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The torque explanation is actually quite straightforward. NOS adds a fixed amount of HP when it's turned on. Torque is related to HP / RPM. Thus, at lower RPMs that fixed HP gain translates to a large TQ gain; as the RPMs climb, the HP gain remains constant so the TQ drops.

Example: NOS turns on at 2500 RPM, turns off at 5000 RPM. Car normally makes 200 HP at 2500 RPM, and 400 HP at 5000 RPM. NOS is a 200-shot.

Then:
TQ at 2500 on motor is (200 * 5252 / 2500) = 420 ft/lbs. TQ at 2500 on NOS is (400 * 5252 / 2500) = 840 ft/lbs.

TQ at 5000 on motor is (400 * 5252 / 5000) = 420 ft/lbs (ye olde flat torque curve). TQ at 5000 on NOS is (600 * 5252 / 5000) = 630 ft/lbs.
 

Chuck 97 GTS

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Ben, thanks for the explanation. Good stuff. But I hate you because you have an RT AND a Daytona!
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That just ain't right! I'm green with envy...
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Jack B

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Tooofst:

A thought - a hp increase with +4 on the VEC1 means you are running to lean, not enough fuel. What is your air/fuel ratio. Try to get further enrichment through jetting or modification of the air temp/coolant temp sensing circuit.

You can make all the hp in the world and if it is at the wrong air/fuel ratio you are putting your engine in jeopardy - detonation at wot is not always apparent. As your car runs lean you will loose hp, on the other hand a car that is running a little rich will not loose much hp and it is much safer on the bottle. I would be very careful of going into the minus range on the VEC1 when on bottle.

I've been playing with nitrous and have over 30 pulls trying to dial it in and I'm also using the VEC1. Just a couple of thoughts.

1. Always monitor air/fuel. This should be as important as the hp/torque. Make a base-line of the air/fuel off of bottle and on subsequent pulls always try to keep the air/fuel close to the stock setting in the 3000-5000 rpm range.

You will want to shift at 4400-4600 on bottle, as the torque should peak between 3500-3800. Your best setting may not be the max hp/torque. You want the best hp/torque at a safe air/fuel ratio. There is a book available from speed shops called NOS. It is good reading

When you plot the air/fuel curves they tend to lose some detail because their x-axis range is so small. See if the dyno owner will give you the program so that you can play with the curves when you have some time. It is very interesting to plot just the air/fuel curves at full page. At that resolution any changes you make are very apparent.

2. Pull all plugs after any changes. Air/fuel is an average and any one cylinder can be lean even though the air/fuel shows as acceptable. The air/fuel sensors on the dyno can go out of calibration as can the enrichment circuit of the nitrous - always compare the air/fuel of different sessions with some common baseline.

3. Many people are successfully running the stock Chamkpion plugs, however, this plug has a design that is terrible for nitrous. It can and will act as a glow plug and actually cause detonation. The use of a NGK 7252 will not result in any less hp off of bottle and will safeguard against the glow plug effect.
 
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TOOOFST

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Hey Jack nitrous brother,I have been using stock plugs and will try your suggestion, knew i'd be working on that next.Only point of post I dissagree is the Roe computer setting.Stock setting on High side is 0-0, go - and advance timing , go + and retard timing.Sean roe said his Nitro user customers from dyno time told him +4 works the best and after 14dyno pulls last week its true, made 22hp/17TQ @+4.Air/fuel was 12.5 accross dipping toward 11 @5500rpm.The dyno tuner is a 5.0 class nitrous champ and agreed were there!I'll post all 14 pulls next week for viper brothers to review!How'd we get that air/fuel with a 49/22 jets.My system installs in 3hrs.Then its on/off again in 15 min.Houdini Nitrous
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Paolo Castellano

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Scott, I will see you at Uno's tomorrow night. I can't wait to go for another ride where we can actually go all out in 3rd and 4th gears. 3rd felt awesome but we had to stop 1/2 way through!Hopefully there will be less traffic this time! See you tomorrow! Paolo
 

Sean Roe

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Power numbers look good Scott. Gald to see you were able to make so much more power by adjusting the timing and fuel with the calibrator. Turning the high load dial to a positive seting when using nitrous is increasing your injector duty cycle (electronic equivalent to adding bigger fuel jets) and reducing spark advance when at full throttle. Looks like the nitrous likes that
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