You guys saved me a bundle! Thanks for posting.

Tiepilot

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http://vca1.viperclub.org/ubb/Forum14/HTML/010077.html

This is the string that saved me from the dealership!

I installed Sean Roe's 5 piece radiator hose set today and after refilling the system with Dex-Cool I tried to burp the car.
It seemed not to be working very well so I checked the fluid level in the coolant tank, it was empty
eek.gif
.
I tried to fill it through the pressure tank hose (followed the hose from the bottle) but when I added fliud I had an instant puddle on the floor.
After several head scratching sessions I consulted this site and found the above string. I removed the fascia and there it was, a hole punched in the bottom of the coolant bottle. I suppose the previous owner nailed something and it became my problem.

I'm glad the car didn't have to go to the dealer and it was because you guys are concerned enough to answer questions that others pose on the site...
Thank You
 

Tomer

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Tiepilot

How tough was it to remove the front facia? Is this better done with two people so you don't scratch it? I am just curious cuz my fit up in the front with the hood/headlights/facia could be improved upon.

thanks
Tomer
PS Sweeeeeet 96!
 

Ulysses

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Tomer,

removing the facia is a 30 minute job. I was hesistant to do it the first time out, but with advice from others here it was a piece of cake. Things you should do in preparation is to have a clear work area free of anything that you could scrape the facia against when moving it around, A soft cloth laid out to set it on after removal, a soft cloth under neath it during removal to set it down on while messing with the wiring harnesses.

to remove:

Remove hood release latch (2 bolts).

Remove plastic top air dam closure panels.( plastic stuff in front of air box, 3 pieces). Be careful of the side panels, they are held on with one plastic body grommet each. Pull too hard and they will pop off into oblivion. Work them out gently.

Remove all bolts attaching facia to bottom of air dam. (note that four of these bolts hold 2 plastic air dam closure panels that look like dog ears, 2 bolts each on either side of the facia. Remember their orientation.)

Remove bolts attaching facia to front of wheel well.

Remove the lock nuts attaching the facia to top frame horns. One on each side, accessible through the area made clear by removing the top air dam closure panels. You'll have to use a box wrench.

Remove the two nuts holding the facia to the bottom frame horns. Accessible through the grill. You will see 4 nuts, they are the ones on the outside.

Slowly pry the portion of the facia away from the radiator enclosure. (the part that was attached to the front of the wheel well that you just removed the bolts from). You dont want the facia to suddenly drop to the floor. It helps to have a clean hand under the nose of the grill while prying with the other hand. (It might help to run some tape along the facia where the bolts attached to the wheel well to avoid scrathes when prying)

Once they are free, SLOWLY work the facia forward. Look behind the facia while you are doing this and take note of the shims between the facia and the frame horns in case any drop off so that you can easily put them back in the right place.

Set the facia on the cloth that you laid down below it and detach the lighting wiring harnesses for the fog lights and side marker lights. Then move the facia to the other cloth and you are done.
 

Motor City Mad Man

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Could someone describe to me exactly which fascia bolt it is that has a tendancy to puncture the coolant bottle? I could just take out that one bolt and cut it down to smaller size or keep it out completely.
 
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Tiepilot

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Tomer:
The fascia was very easy to remove, I did not have to do everything Ulysses described. There were about 5-8mm screws in each fender well and 10 or so 11mm screws underneath the fascia. I pulled out 10 (5 on top 5 underneath) "Christmas Tree" fastners that were under the hood near the air box and at the top of the grill opening where the hood latch is located. I didn't have to touch the hood latch. When the fascia pulls out a bit you can easily unplug the side marker and fog light connectors.
I think it was 20 minutes tops and I've never done it before. The Fascia was easy to handle and I sat it on an old blanket.

Maybe a '96 is a bit less involved than the model Ulysses dealt with but it's really easy.
Pay attention when the fascia comes away as you may have shims as Ulysses describes, I had a few shimming out the right wheel well but none were found elsewhere.

"Could someone describe to me exactly which fascia bolt it is that has a tendancy to puncture the coolant bottle? I could just take out that one bolt and cut it down to smaller size or keep it out completely."

The bolt is on the right side bottom and it's the very first one, it slams into the bottom right corner of the bottle. You can remove the "plug" in the fender, reach in and follow the side of the coolant bottle down to it's right corner and feel the tip of the screw where it comes throught the lower fascia.
It is a really stupid location for the screw and for that matter the bottle. I plan to leave the screw out as suggested by Ulyesses (I think).

Good News is the Coolant bottle sells for $35 retail, I figured it would be about $350 since it was for a Viper, or just because I needed one.
laugh.gif
 

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