what does it take to get 650 rwhp on a 96 gts

what is needed from a stock car to get it to 650 rwhp?what kind of mods could be done for say 15 k install included?

Super Charger with exhaust, should net you 650 rwhp.

Jon

The easy way to get 650rwhp is call racing Solutions Inc. here in Houston. They have built an all motor that ran 10.08 in the qtr, S/C Vipers that run 9.5's, TT and Strokers with Nitrous that ran a 9.456. Go to www.racingsolutionsinc.com to see what options they have or give them a call.

good luck

Giving up on selling it?

http://westcoastviper.com

Go to engine packages, 96-2002 650R $15,900
Stage 3 heads, cam, roller rockers, headers, exhaust, valves, hi-flow cats, light flywheel.
Did it, love it.

http://westcoastviper.com

Go to engine packages, 96-2002 650R $15,900
Stage 3 heads, cam, roller rockers, headers, exhaust, valves, hi-flow cats, light flywheel.
Did it, love it.

Click to expand...

That set up wont get you 650 RWHP though, it will get you 650 crank, but not RWHP and thats what this post is asking for.

Jon

I guess if I put back on my stock exhaust and asked Heffner to tune it down a bit, 650 rwhp would be possible!

I guess if I put back on my stock exhaust and asked Heffner to tune it down a bit, 650 rwhp would be possible!

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Show-Off

My answer would be: Roe supercharger 8lbs pulley(roughly 8k)
1.7 roller rockers(1k),headers and exhaust,(2500.00), And a set of ported heads (roe and elite are reasonable) that way if you didn,t hit the mark you can call roe for the 10psi pulley. I think you could have this all done right in that 15k ballpark and if you decide to sell you can yank most of it off and return to stock. Just my .02. Jerry

I went the Stroker route......I have seen just a hair less than 650 at the wheels on my best pulls - motor only. It did cost a bit more than 15k though.

Regards,

$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

what is needed from a stock car to get it to 650 rwhp?what kind of mods could be done for say 15 k install included?

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I'd like to take this excellent question one step further and add to the equation:

What is needed from a stock car to get it to 650 rwhp? What kind of mods could be done for say 15 k install included? While keeping the motor all NA without a blower,NOS or turbo solution?

what is needed from a stock car to get it to 650 rwhp?what kind of mods could be done for say 15 k install included?

Click to expand...

I'd like to take this excellent question one step further and add to the equation:

What is needed from a stock car to get it to 650 rwhp? What kind of mods could be done for say 15 k install included? While keeping the motor all NA without a blower,NOS or turbo solution?

Click to expand...

I don't think you can get a stock motor na to 650rwhp with $15k. YOu would have to bore and stroke it and have an incredible head port job done. I don't think it is possible to do for $15k. YOu could get a vary good heads/cam package and get between 580-610rwhp but it would probably cost between 10-15k. YOu would have to have it done by a tuner that has already achieved this before because there is definitely an art of correct cam specs and an incredible head porter to accomplish the desired hp level.

HOwever, if you wanted to run a higher rpm, say 7000rpm, you might be able to achieve 650rwhp without stroking it but I am not sure of all the mods or cost that would be associated with this route.

Utah,

Thank you! Higher RPM is definitely an attractive goal similar to the Ferrari and other track related cars. I wonder how much low end torque would have to be sacraficed to gain the higher RPMs?

Jay K.

ps. My apologies to speedshftr for the apparent ThreadJacking taking place. I do value this thread for future implementation.

Apologies ,

Jay K.

$10-12K roe charger, roller rockers, exhaust.

proven combination.

DN

$10-12K roe charger, roller rockers, exhaust.

proven combination.

DN

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650rwhp with this setup?

We've got one in St. Louis.
Ran low 10.4's last time I saw. I don't remember the mph

PBJ?


DN

Roe Racing S/C with 8lb Pulley, MSD BAP, Belanger Headers and Exhaust, 1.7 Roller Rockers, 70mm TB's with Roe Airbox modification, 50lb injectors, tuning and a box of depends will net you 600+rwhp and 650rwtq. We just finished one a few weeks ago that made 617rwhp and 675rwtq with roughly the same modifications.

A while back we built and tuned a car that had no internal modifications and a 7lb pulley which went 10.46@135mph in the 1/4 on kumho's. This car was driven every day and I'd bet he raced every red light.

Getting 650 rwhp N/A is not cheap or easy - but it sure is fun.

I got there with CF Airbox, throttle bodies, 510 stroker, solid roller, heads that flow 310 CFM, cam change, roller rockers, full exhaust.

The car Dave is talking about is a stock '97 with exhaust, t&d's, 8 # Roe charger, with a 40 shot of nos and rwhp was 705 and rwtq was 917 on a soft tune. It will run 9's in Topeka or the Kevin is going to drop me as a friend. My car has a mild cam, exhaust,t&d's, and a little spray a laid down 641 & 820. You can put 650 to the wheels for under $15000 very easily.
Later,
Joe

In summation its either NOS, ROE or a Stroker. Correct?

Jay K.

In summation its either NOS, ROE or a Stroker. Correct?

Jay K.

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95% correct - you could also do it without a stroker or boost or NOS. Not sure how close it'd come in with the $15k budget however as I've not priced up what it would take - but I can tell you the power would be easy to achieve if you ditch the hyd lifters.

As for loss of bottom end on a n/a engine - if you want stomp pulling power from idle - buy a diesel. Guys - this is an exotic sports car with 500 cubes. If you want stock off idle performance - keept it stock or use NOS or boost.

With that size engine you could make a lot of n/a power and still have it retain more than enough bottom end to get groceries. Real performance engines get up and go thru 6000rpm and beyond. Anything under that has a lot of untapped potential left in it. Personally any motor I had built for myself will easily pass 6000rpm and beyond because 5600rpm shift points belong in a sports truck, but I understand why some like the rpm range a stocker has.

As well as the options others have suggested I'm confident that Heffner Performance could provide a solution in that budget using a variety of solutions and selecting the one that best fit the customers requirements.

Personally - I'd always build a great foundation first, then do whatever I wanted after that - though starting with the end in mind.

If 650rwhp was my goal - I'd go for an all engine everytime.... but others would do the easy thing and bolt on a blower...

do whatever takes your fancy - one will behave like a thoroughbred horse, the other like a stock car on steroids - take your pick. The boost option will make more torque than the n/a option but the n/a option will be quicker on a road course if set up right

summary:
if you want to to behave like stock normally - boost or NOS
if you want it to behave like a hi performance engine you can still drive - build up the engine.

There are ways of being able to do both in stages - if so the best thing is to build it first then bolt on later.. most people just bolt on, and to be fair the engine is good enough to work most of the time, but you can't beat a good foundation laid first.

Oh, just to answer your torque question....On motor only I have 575 RWTQ at 3500. I really don't think I am sacrificing any bottom end...Or top end for that matter. So far, in my case the Solid has made huge power quickly, but my heads and intake are limiting my high RPM power. The Ramp on the solid is incredible.

Regards,

Joe, you are the man! Those are some SICK numbers!

The car Dave is talking about is a stock '97 with exhaust, t&d's, 8 # Roe charger, with a 40 shot of nos and rwhp was 705 and rwtq was 917 on a soft tune. It will run 9's in Topeka or the Kevin is going to drop me as a friend. My car has a mild cam, exhaust,t&d's, and a little spray a laid down 641 & 820. You can put 650 to the wheels for under $15000 very easily.
Later,
Joe

Click to expand...

In summation its either NOS, ROE or a Stroker. Correct?

Jay K.

Click to expand...

95% correct - you could also do it without a stroker or boost or NOS. Not sure how close it'd come in with the $15k budget however as I've not priced up what it would take - but I can tell you the power would be easy to achieve if you ditch the hyd lifters.

As for loss of bottom end on a n/a engine - if you want stomp pulling power from idle - buy a diesel. Guys - this is an exotic sports car with 500 cubes. If you want stock off idle performance - keept it stock or use NOS or boost.

With that size engine you could make a lot of n/a power and still have it retain more than enough bottom end to get groceries. Real performance engines get up and go thru 6000rpm and beyond. Anything under that has a lot of untapped potential left in it. Personally any motor I had built for myself will easily pass 6000rpm and beyond because 5600rpm shift points belong in a sports truck, but I understand why some like the rpm range a stocker has.

As well as the options others have suggested I'm confident that Heffner Performance could provide a solution in that budget using a variety of solutions and selecting the one that best fit the customers requirements.

Personally - I'd always build a great foundation first, then do whatever I wanted after that - though starting with the end in mind.

If 650rwhp was my goal - I'd go for an all engine everytime.... but others would do the easy thing and bolt on a blower...

do whatever takes your fancy - one will behave like a thoroughbred horse, the other like a stock car on steroids - take your pick. The boost option will make more torque than the n/a option but the n/a option will be quicker on a road course if set up right

summary:
if you want to to behave like stock normally - boost or NOS
if you want it to behave like a hi performance engine you can still drive - build up the engine.

There are ways of being able to do both in stages - if so the best thing is to build it first then bolt on later.. most people just bolt on, and to be fair the engine is good enough to work most of the time, but you can't beat a good foundation laid first.

Click to expand...

Barry,

My sentiments exactly! I took the liberty of Bolding your thoughts and adding a Graemlin that I think emphasizes this point! The trade off of Low End Torque for Higher end HP and MPH is a question that sorely needs to be answered by this Enthusiastic crowd!

Thanks,

Jay K.

Cheapest route is to buy someone else's Viper already modded to 650hp or more..

I bet BTR will get you haulin' ASP for 15k!

Chad