Curious about you Sea Roe supercharger guys

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On the Sean Roe Kit, are you guys using the stock Crank Damper or do you get one with the kit that is upgraded? Has anyone spun a crank damper yet on the roe kit?

I'm sure you guys are using some type of pin also for the crank damper?
 

kARLUG

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No problems with the stock unit. Sean includes 2 pins, a fixture and drill bit to pin the crank. Followed directions and it was easy to do. You also want to red locktite the damper bolt and torque to 250 ft. lbs.
 

fuelman

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Macedo keyed my crank during installation, I think he does every FI car that way. No problems to date, going on 2 years with the supercharger and 9000 miles, and a lot lot of drag strip passes.
 

suprchg1

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Yes I did spin the dampner and now the engine is at Arrow for a bit of repair and modification. I wish I could have got the message through to the last gent that worked on my Viper. :eek:
 
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Yes I did spin the dampner and now the engine is at Arrow for a bit of repair and modification. I wish I could have got the message through to the last gent that worked on my Viper. :eek:

Did you have your damper keyed or pinned before you spun the damper?
 

VIPR GTS

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I also spun mine off the car but was lucky that there was no damage to the end of the crank. Larry Macedo has since pinned if for me. This is a must do to avoid costly repair in the future.
 

suprchg1

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The damper was keyed but we believe installation and the torque was the failure. It's hard to say due to the damage. The new crank has two pins for the damper, locktite and proper torque. All big factors and none to be taken lightly. I should be at Arrow Race Engine on the seventh of December for the naturally aspirated dyno test, and on the eighth install the Roe Supercharger and ninth for the final set up and dyno run that should make me smile. I will let you know what the final FWHP is.
 

ChicagoGTS

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Hey ab,

I've sheered the pins in the Roe kit twice and after talking with Sean he recommended using some solid dowel pins that McMaster Carr sells it was either 98380A514 or 98380A512 I can't remeber if they were the 1-1/2 or the 1-1/4 that I used (I Think it was 98380A514) but I do know they were 1/4"dia. You can see right away when you compare them how much heavier and stronger the solid pins are plus you don't have a seam to contend with like the roll-pins do. I have had 4 months of trouble free driving and have put the pins to the test. So, I'd say they worked well. I believe they're $6 for a pack of 10, I'd send you some but I mis-placed the bag. Also, you could still use Sean's kit for drilling just order the hardened pins.

~Matt~
 
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matt, so the Roe pins are not solid pins?

Where abouts do the pins go on the damper? I know the Paxtons stay close to the crank shaft.
 

ChicagoGTS

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I don't know if Sean is still using Roll-pins but last year when I did it he was. Sean's kits fit's over the snout of the crank and has two pre-drilled holes in it. You'll need a 90 degree high speed drill. When you drill into the pre-drilled holes you will be in essence drilling into the crank. Then you will do the same on the balancer. When you put the balancer back you just tap your pins in, loc-tite you crank bolt and your done. I will warn you the pins are pressure fitted so this will not go on as easy as I described which is compounded by the fact that you're working in cramped quarters. Stupid question, do you have an extended warranty?

~Matt~
 

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