Changed spark plugs: Much smoother

Viperfreak2

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I just changed the plugs in the snake and was wondering if anyone else had the same results. Much smoother idle, and no 'skip' feeling at light throttle. I always thought the V-10 was prone to this feeling due to the cam, but this is the first Viper I've kept long enough to change the plugs. It was raining yesterday during the test drive, so I couldn't really get on it, but it felt so much better just cruising around. I went with Autolite platinums.
 
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Viperfreak2

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I checked the gaps and they were all set right at .035. The plugs that came out looked really good. I think they were champions. Nice light brown color, no carbon. VERY clean.
 

GR8_ASP

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None other than patience.

I had to grind down my socket to fit it the heat shields. And I ended up taking off the heater system box to access #8 and #10. Ugh!
 

Viper X

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Kai,

This is an easy do it yourself, just take your time. Smaller drives, i.e. 3/8" sockets as opposed to 1/2" are easier to work with in the tight spaces. A spark plug socket helps.

Dan
 

SweetRed04

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None other than patience.

I had to grind down my socket to fit it the heat shields. And I ended up taking off the heater system box to access #8 and #10. Ugh!

When it comes time to change plugs I'd sure want to use a torque wrench and tighten them to spec in those aluminum heads.....
 
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Viperfreak2

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They were all very close to 35. Then again, how trustworthy are those little .99cent gap gauges??? I suppose I could have brought a pair of calibrated digital calipers home from work. Any plug experts out there wanna tell us about the pitfalls of .045 vs. .035?

As far as tools, all I used was a 3" & 6" extention with a swivel. I easily got to all 10 plugs.
 

29OUTLAW

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They were all very close to 35. Then again, how trustworthy are those little .99cent gap gauges??? I suppose I could have brought a pair of calibrated digital calipers home from work. Any plug experts out there wanna tell us about the pitfalls of .045 vs. .035?

As far as tools, all I used was a 3" & 6" extention with a swivel. I easily got to all 10 plugs.

When you pulled out the old plugs did you check to see if they had been indexed from the factory (ground electrodes all pointing in a particular direction). Some say that indexing plugs a particular way can result in as much as 5% more HP. Only a dyno can confirm proper direction for indexing cause it’s different with each engine (although most benefit from electrode pointing towards exhaust valve). Anyway, that’s why I thought it would be beneficial to see if they were indexed from the factory.
 
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Viperfreak2

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I'm not familiar with indexing, so I'm not sure what to look for. I can take a digital picture tonight if that would be worth something. Just from memory, I don't remember anything special, and I looked at each plug very closely.
 

29OUTLAW

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Indexing would be if the plug was screwed into the head in such a way so that the ground electrode is pointing in a particular direction so that the spark is better suited to ignite the fuel. For example, in most cased you would not want the “gap” to be pointed in the opposite direction of the incoming air/fuel. That would cause the spark and the fuel to be partially “blocked” from one another.

However, once the factory plugs are out, it’s impossible to tell is they were indexed when installed. Prior to pulling them out you can take a felt tip pen and put a mark on the ceramic insulator of each plug as a reference and then see if the electrodes were all pointing in one particular direction when they were installed at the factory. Also - if the plugs you pulled out had little metal washers on them of varying thickness, that would also indicate that they were indexed when installed.

Personally, I doubt DC would have gone to that kind of trouble though.
 

Vintage Racer

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In our race cars we always coat the threads of the spark plugs with anti sieze compound to make it easier to remove them and avoid any kind of binding. Also, we have the plugs in and out at least once a day, sometimes more. Is this something you would do with a Viper or is the time between plug changes such that you don't worry about it?
 

GR8_ASP

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I use anti-seize on mine. Dielectric grease in the boots as well. But I do not try to index as I have no idea what the optimal orientation is. Plus indexing is a real pain in the ****.
 

Kai SRT10

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Took my car to the dealer. They told me that they had bad experiences with Autolites in Chrysler vehicles, including a Gen I Viper. Said that Champions worked better.

Anyone else heard this?
 
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Viperfreak2

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So far, only good results from the change. Another benefit is gas mileage. While I don't really care if it gets 10mpg, with gas priced so high, I figured I'd let you all know I'm up from an average of 14.9 (over two years) to near 16 on the first tank after the change, to 16.8 on the second! I'm on the third now, and driving aggressively....will let you know. I can usually make the gauge move 1/4 tank in any short drive. (30 miles round trip) My trip to dinner last night showed the same level when I got home as when I left! Very strange, and nice!
 

Racer Robbie

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Guys, I have tried the autolite xp985, .035, 20 lb ft torque. They are awesome. the reason the dealer does not like them is because they don't sell therefor they do not make any money. The back 2 spark plugs are easy to change if you have the right tools. Below is a list of what you need.

3/8 in drive ratchet
3/8 inch drive WOBBLE extension, 6 inches long
3/8 in drive dedicated spark plug socket, NOT A DEEP REGYLAR SOCKET
3/8 in drive universl joint
a piece of clear fuel hose that will fit over the insulator of the spark plug. This hose makes it much easier to remove the plug after you break it loose and to start the new plugs into the heads.

ALLWAYS USE ANTISEIZE COMPOUND ON THE THREADS AND ALWAYS TORQUE THEM TO 20 LB FT
 

Kai SRT10

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Guys, I have tried the autolite xp985, .035, 20 lb ft torque. They are awesome. the reason the dealer does not like them is because they don't sell therefor they do not make any money.

HMMMM. They charged me $200 to change my spark plugs.
 
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Viperfreak2

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Ouch. It took me thirty minutes. I think I paid $1.99 per plug (bought them long ago, I could be wrong)

$20 and 30 minutes vs. $200 and having to sit in the dealers service dept. waiting room.....
 

Racer Robbie

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man you got ripped off, $200.00 labor for hour of work, thats $200.00 per hour. I would go back with your reciept and ask then to show you the flat labor book. AllData quotes:




2003 Dodge Viper SRT10 V10-8.3L VIN Z

Top - Vehicle
Maintenance
. Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks
. . Spark Plug


LaborSpark Plug
.
. Replace 1.0 hrs

Make them give you back the difference or tell them you are filing with your stated DMV Dealers & Repair Division.

If anyone can not find these Autolite XP985 plugs I can sell them for $7.95 each which is 50% off of the list price of $15.90 each. With the money saved on labor you can buy a cheap torque wrench and the tolols needed to do the job. Email me or call me at 203-641-8569 and I will UPS them to your door.
 

Herc

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Ouch. It took me thirty minutes. I think I paid $1.99 per plug (bought them long ago, I could be wrong)

$20 and 30 minutes vs. $200 and having to sit in the dealers service dept. waiting room.....

That price is for the AP not the XP. I was quoted 7.95 each for the XP at
Checker and they would have to order them.

Herc :usa:
 

Herc

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Just swapped to the AP985, it does idle smoother. Wonder if the XPs are worth the price.

Herc :usa:
 

Racer Robbie

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yes they are totally 2 different type plug, go with the xp, they are worth the cost. You will love them. hell i will buy them off youmif you do not like them
 

29OUTLAW

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There’s no doubt that the #9 plug is the hardest to get to. I decided to see how hard it was to access before I spent money on new plugs. I had great difficulty getting the #9 plug wire off the #9 plug. With Herculean strength I was able to get the #9 wire off the #9 plug but Hercules tore the wire clean off the plug while leaving behind the wire’s “ring” from off the tip of the plug – the ring stayed behind!!! ***

As you can see from the picture, the #9 wire is now toast. It wouldn’t be so bad except that the coil for the #9 wire sits under the middle of the intake manifold and is really hard to reach. This is when I wish I had some kids. Little hands would be great with this type of work. I guess I’ll have to buy a whole new set of wires just to replace the #9.

Hopefully this will serve as a caveat for those who choose to replace plugs.



You must be registered for see images attach
 

Viper Specialty

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I have found that if the plugs are to be changed, and the boot has been on the plug a long time, spray WD-40 down onto where the boot contacts the plug. Let it soak for a few minutes, twist the boot back and forth until the boot frees itself from the plug, THEN twist and pull it off. Make sure you dont soak the boot, just a 1-2 second spray will do. Also remember to vacuum out the spark plug hole/seat and wipe down the seat with a rag before reinstalling the new plug to prevent dirt from falling into the chamber or being crushed into the new spark plugs' seat.
 

Volltage

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I too am thankful for the info. I just picked up my xp plugs today and plan on putting them in on Monday.
 

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