Tips for doing a clutch....got any

plumcrazy

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done it before but not on a viper.

got any tips before i jump in ?

i ordered a new slave cyl but NOT from mopar. heard too many bad things about them to mess with it. it would have been cheaper for me that way too. but i went with an aftermarket piece.
 

pattymelt3605

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Where did you get the salve from? Cost? Does it need to be replaced on a car that has 25k miles. I am also going to do a clutch on my car, putting a stock one back in it.
 

SNKEBIT

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no tips, just do it. the only bear is the top right hand bolt,(as you're looking forward towards the bell housing) that one *****. other than that, straight up!!! :headbang:
 

Bad_Byte

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no tips, just do it. the only bear is the top right hand bolt,(as you're looking forward towards the bell housing) that one *****. other than that, straight up!!! :headbang:


Yup, ditto. I bought a friggin 3' extension and did it from a distance.
 

Joseph Dell

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use a lift. take your time. put a rubber glove or some sort of cap on the tranny when you remove it to reduce the amount of fluid that leaks. an experienced person can do it w/ a lift in under 45 min. took me 3 hrs the first time. trans was a PITA. it is a bit tight under there...

JD
 

SNKEBIT

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use a lift. take your time. put a rubber glove or some sort of cap on the tranny when you remove it to reduce the amount of fluid that leaks. an experienced person can do it w/ a lift in under 45 min. took me 3 hrs the first time. trans was a PITA. it is a bit tight under there...

JD



go to parts store and buy one of those plastic generic trans plugs, they work pretty good. :needpics:

sorry, had too :D
 
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plumcrazy

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I didn't go with a clutch fron the dealer. I bought a luk clutch from gripforce clutches in cali.

I should have time sat to do and I'm borrowing a buddy of mines lift to do it. its easier in a shop.

the slave is made by raybestos and part number SC360050 cost me $185 from the local parts store. napa also has one avail for $214.

the slave I'm told can be bad at any onterval so it could be bad on yours. I don't think mine is bad but I'm not gonna take out the trans and clutch and NOT do the slave. I'd rather do it and know its done right and not have to do it again.
 

GR8_ASP

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Pretty much what has been stated above. The top right bolt is darn difficult. I lowered the rear of the trans quite a bit to allow me to sight in that bolt and use a long extension (about 2 ft).

I had no fluid leakage at all, and used no seal or plug.

Use a tranny jack. That trans is very heavy and must be manipulated to remove and reinstall. I would not have been able to lift and align by hand.

The pilot shaft provided by Luk had too small of a pilot diameter for the pilot bearing. I upsized mine with tape to increase the diameter and get the disk aligned.

Do not get air in the clutch hydraulics and at all costs do not let the master cylinder run dry. It takes forever to purge the master. Purging the slave was okay.

I replaced only the throughout bearing (came with the Luk clutch assembly) and used the slave cylinder over. No problems encountered. I also did not replace the pilot bearing (though it was included).

I cleaned and cross-hatched the flywheel prior to installing the new disk and cover. Not sure if it was required but I thought it would help.

That is about all that I can remember. It took me about a day, though I took my sweet time (it was winter outside) and probably had a few brews during the installation. I know I ended up with some nicely cut hands!
 

Viper Wizard

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done it before but not on a viper.

got any tips before i jump in ?

i ordered a new slave cyl but NOT from mopar. heard too many bad things about them to mess with it. it would have been cheaper for me that way too. but i went with an aftermarket piece.

It's OK Phil I'm not upset but you know you can still get tips from me! :bonker:
 

Viper X

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Change the slave while it's out. I've lost three already. PITA job.

Dan
 

1TONY1

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use a lift. take your time. put a rubber glove or some sort of cap on the tranny when you remove it to reduce the amount of fluid that leaks. an experienced person can do it w/ a lift in under 45 min. took me 3 hrs the first time. trans was a PITA. it is a bit tight under there...

JD



go to parts store and buy one of those plastic generic trans plugs, they work pretty good. :needpics:

sorry, had too :D

Kids :rolleyes: Leave the drive shaft in. It's "only" 2' long :D
 

v10sloboy

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I use a plug off of a g35 auto trans fits perfect. Make sure when you tighten the trans to do it evenly. Also do not have the flywheel resurfaced, just scuff it up. Take the shift knob off first before you lift the car up. The trans comes out without the bellhouseing. Take the bellhouseing out after the trans. make sure to replace all components in the clutch(throwout bearing, slave cylinder, pilot bearing). Do not shake the trans a lot when reinstalling, this can damage the slave cylinder. The bolts on the top of the trans are easier to get at with a long extention and a 15mm swivel. Lower the car down some so that you can see over the trans when aligning these bolts. All in all I can have a tranny out in less than 15 minutes.
 
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plumcrazy

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lol @ tator. if i was buying mopar parts, id buy them from YOU. but i didnt this time. i aprreciate the tips and might have to take ya up on it if i get stuck.

the reason i didnt buy mopar parts is YOU dont stock your deviled eggs....lol

yeah, im replacing everything. its just not worth it to cut corners on this. i like to do things once.
 
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