AC System Non-Op...Again! Dealer wants $$$$$$$$$

Viper 8 R

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That tears it!! After paying the Dealer $900 to replace a defective hi-pressure Freon line a month before driving to VOI-9, my 1998 RT-10 Air Conditioning system is blowing hot, again - already!

The Viper Tech at my local 5-Star dealer now says there were 3 leaks in the system, including 2 at the condenser fitting seals and one at the Compressor shaft seal. They want !@#$%& $2600 addtional now, to replace the Condenser (replaced under warrantee 2 years ago) and replace the AC Compressor.
Has anyone ever had these compressor seals replaced?
Doesn't Mopar have any warrantee on new parts (condenser) installed by a Chrysler Dealer?

Please give me any/all input - - I am about ready to shop for an automotive AC repair shop for my poor, hot Snake....
 

Tom F&L GoR

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I have a '94 that lost charge every two years, then more recently every 2 months. There are o-ring seals you can replace yourself; two at the compressor, in and out at the heat exchanger in front of the radiator, and at the sight glass. You can also replace the valve bodies in the high and low pressure ports.

DO NOT TRUST THE SERVICE MANUAL OR DEALER (well, maybe Chuck) TO KNOW WHAT SIZE O-RINGS YOU NEED. I made three trips to spend $11 EACH at the local Dodge dealer for six seals when I should have gone to AutoZone and bought the variety pack for $6 TOTAL.

The o-rings at the compressor can be reached from underneath and from the front. Remove the intake air shrouding in front of the filters. The driver side condensor o-ring can be reached through the grill. The passenger side o-ring is a bear. It is under a plastic shroud that can only be removed by removing the hood. Good luck on that one.

The other o-rings at the sight glass are obviously easy, as are the valve bodies.

R-134a is more dense (4.25 kg/m3) than air (1.202 kg/m3) at normal atmospheric pressure and 59F. Because I was in a similar spot as you, I wanted to know I fixed the leak more than I wanted to know if moisture entered. By finding out that R134a is more dense, I reasoned it wasn't going to abruptly escape when I opened a line and would remain in the system. So when replacing the seals, I simply reinserted the pipe when stepping away from the job. When completed, simply added R134a to see if it worked and how long it worked. It's still working, and working well.

The seals that get the hottest are the most likely to harden. That would be the two on the compressor and the inlet to the condenser. Inspection of the removed seals shows they are not round in cross section anymore - they have hardened into the square groove they sit in. For $6 worth of seals, $40 worth of R134a and a couple of hours to bond with your Snake, you might just fix it yourself. I can't help you with the compressor shaft seal...
 
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Viper 8 R

Viper 8 R

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Hi VIPER Tom -

Thanks a MILLION for the FAST & GOOD TECHNICAL information- You are AWESOME!

I can now steer clear of the Dealer Man, and head for the 'Zone for seals & O-Rings. Per your advice,I'm planning some 'Downtime' to BOND with my Viper.

You ROCK!!
 

Tom F&L GoR

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Re-reading what I wrote I see I forgot to state why I looked up the density. It was to justify not evacuating the system, which would have meant a trip to the repair shop for me.

The '94 system is 36 oz, which means you'll need three cans. Although the wind blows the oil around, you might be able to convince yourself where the leak is by observing how greasy-grimy each location is. The dirtier, the more likely it was leaking at that seal.
 
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Viper 8 R

Viper 8 R

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VIPER Fuels & Lubes Xpert Tom, those are very Good points:

36 oz Refrigerant capacity, Noted;

Not necessary to pump down system prior to recharge - Noted.

I'm thinking I'll borrow a blacklight to look for the ultraviolet Leak-detector dye.

(? add 140 mL +/- of refrigerant lube oil when recharging?)
 

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