Sport Shim Removal

TexasPettey · Aug 15, 2007

I had considered using the sport shims to add camber for the track. My idea was to set the car up for my track alignment without the shims and with the car lowered. For the street, I'd raise the car up about 1/2" and add back in the shims. That would take out most of the camber and bring the toe back in. If needed, I'd adjust the toe by counting turns.

Sounds good, in theory. However, those sport shim nuts are really tough to get to. Anyone have hints on how to get to them and torque them down?

GTS Dean · Aug 15, 2007

Ratcheting box end wrenches help a lot, but you can't get enough leverage on them to torque the nuts correctly so you'll need to keep a regular 7/8" box end handy. You're on the right track with ride height and toe.

TexasPettey · Aug 15, 2007

Thanks. Do you compress the suspension to lift up the arm while attacking the nut or leave it at full extension? Do you pull the shock off?

LETHAL GTS · Aug 15, 2007

The sport shims effect your camber by 1 degree. raising and lowering your car will also effect your camber.
I would suggest putting your car to the ride height you like with the shims in and doing an alignment, then pulling the shims at the track to give you an additional -1 degree camber.
just my $.02.

LETHAL GTS · Aug 15, 2007

TexasPettey said:
Thanks. Do you compress the suspension to lift up the arm while attacking the nut or leave it at full extension? Do you pull the shock off?

BTW you don't remove the nuts. You loosen the nuts and slip the shims out. Then retighten.

Viper Wizard · Aug 15, 2007

Remove the shocks, that gives you plenty of room.

jcaspar1 · Aug 15, 2007

Is the toe change enough to worry about when removing the shims? Would a 90 mile each way trip to the track cause much tire wear with the shims out?

Boxer12 · Aug 15, 2007

I tried running my car sans sport shims...it was a wasted effort. Just lower your car and go to Viper Days and have Archer Racing do your alignment in a moderate track alignment, which will be good for the street. Leave the shims in. Or just call them for alignment specs if you know someone that can do it. You will have to find someone who can use the old string method to get it right after you lower the car, since there won't be enough clearance for a laser shot. Good luck.

1TONY1 · Aug 15, 2007

TexasPettey said:
I had considered using the sport shims to add camber for the track. My idea was to set the car up for my track alignment without the shims and with the car lowered. For the street, I'd raise the car up about 1/2" and add back in the shims. That would take out most of the camber and bring the toe back in. If needed, I'd adjust the toe by counting turns.

Sounds good, in theory. However, those sport shim nuts are really tough to get to. Anyone have hints on how to get to them and torque them down?

I use a 1/2" "wobble" extension about 12" long. That and a big screwdriver when removing them makes it easy. I remove/reinstall every time I autocross.

ViperBing · Aug 16, 2007

Can someone give detailed instructions on how to do this?

Catwood · Aug 16, 2007

turn wrench to loosen two nuts holding the control arm to the upper frame (where the shims are located)

Remove shim

Tighten nuts

Set toe with toe plates.

Toe plates can be bought for a nominal fee from Longacre or other fine product stores.

GTS Dean · Aug 17, 2007

Viper Wizard said:
Remove the shocks, that gives you plenty of room.

That's a lot of work - especially if you don't have a lift. And then, by the book, you're supposed to torque the shock bushings with preload on them.

GTS Dean · Aug 17, 2007

jcaspar1 said:
Is the toe change enough to worry about when removing the shims? Would a 90 mile each way trip to the track cause much tire wear with the shims out?

Yes it would, and the handling would be very nervous with all that toe-out.

Jack B · Aug 20, 2007

7/8" will work, but, it is 22 mm, as was already stated a couple of 1/2" wobble extensions work very well. After you do it a couple of times it is easy. I like to use a short wobble extension and a second extension that gets the hands outside the wheel well, just in case you slip there are no bloody knuckles. I also you a 24" pipe that I add to the end of the swivel head breaker bar, this gives you the leverage to break and torque.

SoCal Rebell · Aug 20, 2007

jcaspar1 said:
Is the toe change enough to worry about when removing the shims? Would a 90 mile each way trip to the track cause much tire wear with the shims out?

I was gonna mention that, removing the shims messes with your toe. Just do what I did, go with a street/track alignment. +6 caster, neutral-1/4 toe, -1.9 front camber and -1.3 rear camber. Great on the track a little "darty" on the street but you get used to it.

Sport Shim Removal

TexasPettey

Enthusiast

GTS Dean

Enthusiast

TexasPettey

Enthusiast

LETHAL GTS

Viper Owner

LETHAL GTS

Viper Owner

Viper Wizard

Enthusiast

jcaspar1

Enthusiast

Boxer12

Enthusiast

1TONY1

Enthusiast

ViperBing

Enthusiast

Catwood

Viper Owner

GTS Dean

Enthusiast

GTS Dean

Enthusiast

Jack B

Enthusiast

SoCal Rebell

Enthusiast

Similar threads

Latest posts

Members online

Forum statistics

Share this page