Iskenderian solid lifters for Vipers

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Just a "heads up" that Iskenderian has plans to produce a run of their high quality "Red Zone" lifters for Dodge Vipers. This will give us an affordable quality lifter for those that want to run a solid lifter cam. No more converting factory hydraulic rollers to solids, or paying $2500 for Viper specific solid lifter.

If there is any interest in them let me know so I can pass it along to them. Amount of interest will determine the size of this first run.

Thanks,

Greg
 

Martin D

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Greg !!

Hey - I think I might be interested. As you know we get my converted lifters from John Hennessey but I would like to have a set or 2 that were not converted and were a good fit and prober size.


Lets talk and see if these are a good option for my .723 lift !!! lol

Martin
 
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They will work great for your car. Not that you've had any problems with the converted stockers, but these would be more durable.

Did you ever get your car to the dyno? I need some bragging rights Man! LOL.
 

Boxer12

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What are the pros and cons Greg? I had a solid lifter Vette engine in the early 70's, and it was fast as heck at the time, but i also recall you could hear the lifters working away. Can you fill us in on this option, and cam options to go with it? What about cam, lifters and heads? What kind of power and at what cost? (Gen 2 here)
 
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If you run a well designed cam the valve train is quiet. Hood up, you can hear it slightly. Hood down, not at all. The guys I've sold solids to have all been happy. I have heard some hydraulic roller lifter engines make more noise.

The 'Vette you had likely had stock stamped steel rocker arms on it? If so, that's where your noise came from. Jesels and T&D's quiet down a valve train.

Martin D above has been running a solid for years on the street.
 

1TONY1

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Greg !!

Hey - I think I might be interested. As you know we get my converted lifters from John Hennessey but I would like to have a set or 2 that were not converted and were a good fit and prober size.


Lets talk and see if these are a good option for my .723 lift !!! lol

Martin

Look who the dogs drug in here !!!! :D
 

Viper Specialty

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I may be interested in a set depending on price range. I dont mind paying, but if they are like Jesel's prices, I may have to contain my LOL'ing as they give me the price.
 

Martin D

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+1 !!!

Are we ever going to tune that beast for you Martin? Glad to hear you are alive!

JD

yes yes.. AS A MATTER of fact. After driving my car just 5k miles in the last two years, the damn thing spun a bearing on me. Not even hard driving. So, I am at McIntosh getting some new guts. I guess getting 20k miles on that motor was not bad. 700 at the wheels on motor and *a bit* ;) more on the gas does tend to wear things out.
 

Simms

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Greg, very interested. What kind of time frame are we looking at?

Please PM me all the details.

Thanks,
Ian
 

Joseph Dell

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yes yes.. AS A MATTER of fact. After driving my car just 5k miles in the last two years, the damn thing spun a bearing on me. Not even hard driving. So, I am at McIntosh getting some new guts. I guess getting 20k miles on that motor was not bad. 700 at the wheels on motor and *a bit* ;) more on the gas does tend to wear things out.

with stock half-shafts, right??? :omg::omg::omg:
 
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Martin,
What are the advantages of solid lifters? Jim

Several.

1. For a given duration number at .050" tappet lift, a solid cam will have significantly less seat duration, giving a better idle and more torque down low (shuts the intake valve sooner for more cylinder pressure). 1Tony1's cam has 20 degrees less seat duration than a hydraulic roller of the same duration @ .050". A popular hydraulic roller cam I sell is 232 @ .050" on the intake. It will idle good and not make the car go rich with a stock computer. When running a solid, we can go up to about 240 @ .050" and still maintain good vacuum, or good enough to prevent a rich idle..

2. Less valve float. We can run slightly more spring pressure on a solid cam and keep the valvetrain "happy".

3. Valve "loft". Valve loft, put simply, is mild valve float. You don't hear about it much. It starts when the valve is at full lift. The inertia of the valve will cause it to keep lifting past what the camshaft tells it to, giving it more lift and "area under the curve" for better cylinder filling. About halfway down the closing ramp the valve "catches up" and sets the lifter back down on the lobe and the camshaft shuts the valve softly. Full fledged valve float is the next progression, where the valvetrain does not come back into line before the valve event is over and slams the valve down on the seat, causing a lot of damage. Valve loft is used in most forms of professional racing. All of the Nextel Cup cars you watch on TV loft the valves approximtely .050" over the nose. NHRA Pro Stockers loft them over .100".

A hydraulic roller cam will not tolerate this. It cannot have any valve loft at all or the lifters will "pump up" and hang the valves off the seat when the cam shuts them. An example would be if you had .050" lifter preload, and you loft the valves. The "slack" in the valvetrain will allow the plunger in the lifter to pump up all the way until the clip stops it. .050" tappet lift X 1.7 rocker ratio = .085" valve lift. That's how far the valves would be open when they are supposed to be shut under valve float or loft. When the lifters bleed back down the valves will shut again.

Hope this explains things a little.
 

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Greg- Dont forget to make sure he knows to produce these in the EZ-Roller option!

Go big or go home!
 

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