Viper Loading on a Trailer "How Too"??

I need some help on loading my Gen3 on a trailer. I just purchased a nice trailer for hauling my viper and wanted to know how you all generaly load your cars? I am putting a winch in this weekend but should I pull the car from the front or the rear when loading? I see some nice tabs on the rear of the frame but not sure where I would hook to pull the car from the front if thats a better loading method? I backed the viper in myself with my son and wow I won't do that again. To much feathering on the clutch etc. Anyway any help from some experienced track guys or car trailer owners would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Most folks drive their Vipers onto the trailer. The winch is used for when the car is inoperable.

I would drive it in but being such a snug fit it it seems to me the winch would be a smoother more controled way without burning up the clutch (feathering it) to pull it in? Maybe after a few times driving it up in I will get better at it?

Shandon said:

Maybe after a few times driving it up in I will get better at it?

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Yes.

Make sure you have a spotter on each side. It is not unusual to have to roll back a few times for several attempts.

What I do on a steep incline is let go of the clutch until the engine is about to stall, then let off the brake pedal. By this time, your car should not be moving back anymore. Then lightly step on the gas pedal & you're good to go. To me, this is more controlled & easier then having to feather the clutch. Hope this helps.

There is a frame tie down at the front of the frame rails on each side. It is a small oval opening. You can hook on there and then pull it in. As stated you will need to watch the side sills but after a few times it will be a cake walk. If the nose is too low to get on the ramp door then add a couple long 2X10's and ramp it onto the door at a shallow angle pulling it in from the front obviously.

also, learn from other peoples mistakes:
LiveLeak.com - How not to load a Porsche carrera GT onto a tow truck

what a dumba$$ with that Porsche, just using wood planks for ramps?

As someone stated, there are oval tie-down holes on both the front and rear frame rails. The only difficulty I found when trailering mine was getting the vehicle centered between the tie-down anchors on my trailer, so that the ratchet strap handles were still clear of the front bumper when I cranked them. So, I installed the front tie-down straps first, then backed the car up a little so that they were tight. Then tied the rear straps down.

I needed a way to load my car onto my trailer without a spotter, as I could not always find someone around, or did not want to trust the people around. I bought one of those noodles that kids use in the pool. Its basically a cylinder made of soft styrofoam. I cut two pieces to velcro to the side of the trailer on the drivers side. Basically the car should be right next to them to be centered. If I hit them no big deal they just fall down without scratching the car. I started using them last year and they have worked very well.

I drive mine up, and I use wood on top of my steel ramps only becasue I need to shim up the ramp angle. I don't "feather" the clutch. That's why you have an emergency brake. It's a tight fit, but once I get going, I keep going straight up till on top.....no problem. It sure is easy to have someone running around side to side to guide you up. It should only be a 20-30 second drive up and that shouldn't do any damage to a clutch.

That guy in the Porsche was a nervous a*s who got halfway up the ramps and instead of a slow easy run, he hit it halfway up the shot the ramps out from under him. I have never come anywhere near that problem.

How much do these trailers cost? and lets see pics!

Can you rent these trailers for one way trips etc? I want to rent a house for the winter next year for maybe 4 months...

If you have a convertible do not load it backwards first! The wind won't be kind to your top.

A Sloan Kwik-Load is Viper friendly and eliminates the ramp situation. New about 4500.
I got mine used for under $3K.
PBR

Here is a thread that may be of interest: http://forums.viperclub.org/srt10-s...02282-securing-viper-trailer.html#post2391925

I drive head on and will use boards to reduce ramp angle if needed. A trick I heard is to raise the jack on the front of the trailer to raise trailer nose to reduce ramp angle. Also, allow arrival and departure time for rigging in your travel plans so you can do it in a deliberate way. Other advice is criss-cross rear straps and leave transmission in neutral with hand brake on. Search other threads here for more tips and web site suggestions for procuring straps. Final tip I heard was to place small mirrors in the trailer (could remove after loading) so you can see the trailer wheel wells if you don't have help when loading.

pteam said:

How much do these trailers cost? and lets see pics!

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Here are some pics of my towing setup. The trailer is an 18' steel deck with dovetail and optional rock guard up front. These usually sell in the $3500 range. I use a set of "Race-Ramps" made for my trailer ramps to decrease the approach angle. My lowered Viper drives right up without scraping anything.

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You must be registered for see images

Race Ramps: Race Ramps by Brute Industries - Welcome to our store! - Trailer Ramps

Thanks Guys this information has been most helpful. I am ordering some R-hooks now and will begin practicing my loading and unloading procedures. Stuff like this is just another reason being a VCA member is worth every penny.

Mark Jorgensen at Woodhouse has these tow hooks for the Viper if you do want to winch it up. Supposedly easy to put on and take off.

Nice setup nine ball. Anybody else with pics?

im doing this as well. I have a 26' Vnose enclosed that is 8.5ft wide .... thanks for the loading info ... im sure it will be fine ...........

How much are the enclosed trailers?

pteam said:

How much are the enclosed trailers?

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Prices vary if new because of interior option that you can add. In your purchase decision, look for a driver side door that will help you in loading/unloading car in an enclosed trailer. Not essential but much easier if you open trailer door and then your car door. You can check American Hauler web site to see options and pricing.

You MUST load the car on forward (engine towards the tongue). This is the only way to get the proper tongue weight. How far foward you go might be determined by how far the car can go forward without hitting anything (front end, fascia, etc.,). But you want the trailer to lean forward towards the vehicle. Most tongue weight is around 750# max. The closer to that value the faster you can run without sway. If you do not have the proper tongue weight (too light) the trailer will sway when you get up to about 50 MPH (depending on how light the tongue weight is). When a trailer sways..it can lead to an accident as the sway will increase until the trailer could come around on you. It goes against nature, but if you get into a situation of trailer sway, and it gets real bad (you see the whole side of your car) the only way to stop it is to put the pedal to the metal and pull it straight... if you start to feel sway, slow down. Stopping and moving the car forward about 6-10 inches makes a world of difference. Ask anyone that tows...

I posted a question about tying down the viper but as of yet got no response. Trailer came with straps to go around the A arm, should I be using the R hooks instead?

Here's a pic.

wastntim said:

I posted a question about tying down the viper but as of yet got no response. Trailer came with straps to go around the A arm, should I be using the R hooks instead?

Here's a pic.

Click to expand...

Use the hooks! The arms may hold fine but are not meant for this anyway, the holes are. Plus the car will not bounce around because the suspension is held down.

Just so the Viper crowd can laugh at the Porsche guys here is the how NOT to load your Carrerra GT onto a trailer video:

Porsche Carrera GT: Porsche Carrera GT Eats It While Driving Onto Trailer

Having a V10 apparently does not mean you are smart.

I've towed my Vipers about 10,000 miles now using R-hooks. The work very well with minimal trouble. Cars don't move while being trailered as noted above.

Definitely drive into / onto the trailer, don't back onto it.

You can get R-hooks from AW Direct.

Dan

R hooks into Holes in chassis is the way to go. I cross the rear when I tow.

I just ordered the R hooks, and they came today. How exactly do they fit into the frame? It might be obvious to me once I mess around on the side slots, but holding the hooks it doesn't seem self explanatory. If I'm hooking on the front frame slots, would the hook portion be towards the rear of the car with the flat part (I'm assuming it rests against outside of frame) towards the front?

Thanks for the recommendation!

P.S. - I'm currently using the hook on the strap for the rear (using the hole that's part of the metal tab sticking out from the rear of the frame). Are you all using R hooks for that as well?

Lets see if I can shed a little bit of light on this.

When loading a car, always front first. Reason is aerodynamics of the vehicle (would you really like to drive your viper backwards at 75 MPH) second is weight distribution. Unless you have a long trailer, you will not be able to put enough weight on the tounge to prevent tounge lift and sway.

As for the clutch, that is practice. The first few times I crindged too!! Now I have a spotter I trust (my father) and we drive strait in and very little feathering. Think of it this way, still less clutch wear than a clutch slip start at a dragstrip!!

Strapping. The best straps that I have found (I have tried all of them) available is a E strap. If you use regular straps, then do be sure to cross the back ones (in a X shape) to prevent the back end from walking all over.

For those who are not versed in E Track, it is a strip about 4 inches wide that looks like a train track and runs the entire inside length of the trailer under your tires. Once installed on both sides under the tires, you can order special straps that go over the tire and clip into the E track. No more crawling under the car to find the frame holes etc. Best part is, it allows the suspension on the car to still work while the trailer goes over bumps! Total cost with straps, about $250. I found a place called Mac's Custom Tiedowns that seems to carry everything that is needed for Vipers.

As for enclosed trailer costs, normally they are anywhere from $5000 to $14,000 for the 20-24 foot, and the $14k breed has all the luxuries like all aluminum and AC. A good average price is the $6500-7500 range and you will get a good quality mid road trailer. A great brand (I have owned MANY different ones) is Haulmark. Great quality and can be custom ordered!! To see prices and options, go to Metro Trailer: Enclosed Trailers, Semi-Trailers, Liftgates, Trailer Repair Parts. I have no affiliation with them but they are one of the few places that have pricing listed on the website (for some strange reason the trailer industry does not like to publish prices) and they are great to work with (I purchased mine from them).

Below are pictures of my setup with the E Track in use. The larger version is below each one in the event you want a bigger picture.


ViperClub Photo Gallery - trailer


ViperClub Photo Gallery - trailer


ViperClub Photo Gallery - 2002 ACR


ViperClub Photo Gallery - 2002 ACR


ViperClub Photo Gallery - 2002 ACR


ViperClub Photo Gallery - 2002 ACR

I hope this helps!

Robert