Side sills so cold they spit ice cubes

dave6666 · Apr 21, 2008

Well, maybe that's a Texas sized stretch, but I'm guessing this will help in August traffic, along with the Parts Rack R/T HF cats and louvered sill vents.

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Think I should use a screen like I did my Roe duct?

Keep out the drink cups and 'dillo bits?

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V10SpeedLuvr · Apr 21, 2008

Dave, I see some holes in your side sills. I hope you kept your receipt and can return them.

triblk6spd · Apr 21, 2008

I can't believe you did that. There is a chance I am way off, but I think that is going to look awful. I don't see the side sill heat problem being THAT bad.

ViperTony · Apr 21, 2008

Dave, great idea. Are you going to use the side sill vents to help air move through and out of those holes?

ViperTony · Apr 21, 2008

triblk6spd said:
I can't believe you did that. There is a chance I am way off, but I think that is going to look awful. I don't see the side sill heat problem being THAT bad.

\

Sure, if you can squeeze your head under the 4" of clearance to take a peek under the sills. :lmao:

triblk6spd · Apr 21, 2008

ViperTony said:
\

Sure, if you can squeeze your head under the 4" of clearance to take a peek under the sills.

Ha, ha, my bad, I thought the holes were on the outside of the sills facing out. I should pay more attention to the pics.

Also, yes I would use the mesh.

ViperTony · Apr 21, 2008

triblk6spd said:
Ha, ha, my bad, I thought the holes were on the outside of the sills facing out. I should pay more attention to the pics.

Also, yes I would use the mesh.

I had to do a double-take on the pics as well. At first, I thought Dave put the holes on top so he can roast his chix ala convection style while he's driving.

PhoenixGTS · Apr 22, 2008

What are you going to do with the insulation? Are you going to drill that holes in it also?

ViperGTS · Apr 22, 2008

Hope this is not an original side sill...knowing the cost!

-FROG- · Apr 22, 2008

dave6666 said:
Well, maybe that's a Texas sized stretch, but I'm guessing this will help in August traffic, along with the Parts Rack R/T HF cats and louvered sill vents....

See.... this is the kind of stuff I like to see Viper owners toying around with. I like it! Let us know if it works or not. Whatever the case, have fun through trial and error. I would assume it will help, but maybe it needs an inlet and outlet of some sort. I doubt it though.... It will probably help out just because of the obvious. Some factory side sills have little ventalation "veins" throughout the underside and some are totally sealed. Not sure why, but I think it was a factory deal throughout the years. Maybe someone with factory spec knowlege will chime in to the reason for this... Dodge was probably shooting for the same goal as you.

dave6666 · Apr 22, 2008

It should be obvious from the drilling dust that those are Autoform fiberglass sills, not factory aluminum. When I talked to them they said they were actually amazed Dodge designed the Viper with enclosed sills. I guess there are cars made that have open sills on the bottom from the factory. I am not the expert on that though.

On the insulation, I looked over the construction of the factory stuff, and it looks like glass fiber filler with crimped edge aluminum encasing. It will be carefully modified to fit each hole. Has to be trimmed anyway to fit the new sills.

I think I will do the screen. It does look cool, especially if you're 4" tall.

FATHERFORD · Apr 22, 2008

I wonder what aerodynamic effects occur when performing this procedure?

I curious if louvers would be a better option, just a lot more time consuming.

Looking good though Dave, make sure and let us know how it does sitting in the hot summer months.

dave6666 · Apr 22, 2008

FATHERFORD said:
I wonder what aerodynamic effects occur when performing this procedure?

I curious if louvers would be a better option, just a lot more time consuming.

Looking good though Dave, make sure and let us know how it does sitting in the hot summer months.

I would guess that the aero implications would be negligible, given the other surfaces under the Viper. It is not a smooth flat creature under there. Turbulence might actually help extract hot air from the sills.

Would be a little tough to louver the underside of the fiberglass sills from their cured state. I would have to cut out a section and then fab in a louvered section pre-made with louvers.

FATHERFORD · Apr 22, 2008

dave6666 said:
I would guess that the aero implications would be negligible, given the other surfaces under the Viper. It is not a smooth flat creature under there. Turbulence might actually help extract hot air from the sills.

Would be a little tough to louver the underside of the fiberglass sills from their cured state. I would have to cut out a section and then fab in a louvered section pre-made with louvers.

Yeah, the louvers would be a lot of work. The little 4" midget would have something better to look at though

DAMN YANKEE · Apr 22, 2008

Dave, you do have guts! With the screens in place (and they should be as small and tight a weave as possible, and replaceable) you should have no aero effects.

Dave, you need to get some air to more towards the top of the unit as well. What about cutting a long slot along the top of the upper outside corner bend (front to back), just before the sill run flat towards the door and using a number of small diameter thin steel rods (well supported, say every 8") to give it a long , clean looking "vent". Hot air would definatlly blow through there when stuck in traffic. That would also help get the steam out of there when you run through a heavy rain as if it picks it up at the holes and superheats, its going to need someplace to go.

dave6666 · Apr 22, 2008

DAMN YANKEE said:
Dave, you do have guts! With the screens in place (and they should be as small and tight a weave as possible, and replaceable) you should have no aero effects.

Dave, you need to get some air to more towards the top of the unit as well. What about cutting a long slot along the top of the upper outside corner bend (front to back), just before the sill run flat towards the door and using a number of small diameter thin steel rods (well supported, say every 8") to give it a long , clean looking "vent". Hot air would definatlly blow through there when stuck in traffic. That would also help get the steam out of there when you run through a heavy rain as if it picks it up at the holes and superheats, its going to need someplace to go.

The mesh I have in house is 1/4" and 1/3" size openings. I think the Roe duct I did with the 1/3" stuff. In either case, the stuff is stainless steel so it will stay purdy a long time. Might use the 1/4" stuff for the side sills.

Venting the top if I understand you correctly would be tricky with the stock insulation in there. It will be challenging enough to trim the bottom and notch it out for my holes. I'm hoping that natural convection currents from the now vented fronts (Parts Rack vents) will move some air out the bottom even when stationary. Best bet is to plan trips to avoid traffic, and I certainly watch the weather forecast to avoid rain!

ViperJohn · Apr 22, 2008

Will you be wrapping the exhaust or trimming the original insulation? If you put the factory insulation back in, it will cover the holes. I would also put in a screen.

FYI, Gen 1 sill were actually had some openings along the bottom to allow air to move. I am not sure why they stopped it, but the openings may have been allowing contaminants inside leading to corrosion.

At least with the fiberglass sills, you won't have to worry about corrosion, although I have heard the fiberglass sill tend to flex after a while due to the heat, I hope the areas you cut out doesn't lead to more flexing/warping down the road.

dave6666 · Apr 22, 2008

ViperJohn said:
Will you be wrapping the exhaust or trimming the original insulation? If you put the factory insulation back in, it will cover the holes. I would also put in a screen.

FYI, Gen 1 sill were actually had some openings along the bottom to allow air to move. I am not sure why they stopped it, but the openings may have been allowing contaminants inside leading to corrosion.

At least with the fiberglass sills, you won't have to worry about corrosion, although I have heard the fiberglass sill tend to flex after a while due to the heat, I hope the areas you cut out doesn't lead to more flexing/warping down the road.

As mentioned, the factory insulation will be used and properly clearanced so all of the holes are open.

I can imagine that if you drive your car in the rain a lot or do the salt thing that corrosion would be an issue. A car wash every now and then I do not believe will hurt at all, as that is all the water my car gets. I do avoid rain.

If for some reason they do end up warping, which I would suspect not with all of the ventilation I'm putting in, I'll get new ones. The FRP ones are cheap.

thebigsnake · Apr 22, 2008

Very logical.
Who designes a tight fitting, painted, complete inclosure for a catalytic converter???
Is it supposed to work or what?

dave6666 · Apr 22, 2008

Screen in. Minus a few pop rivets that will just have to come right back out anyway.

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ViperTony · Apr 22, 2008

Looking good Dave. Hey, where did you get those nifty side-sill screws/washers you used to fasten the sills to the frame?

dave6666 · Apr 22, 2008

All the hardware came from McMaster Carr. I think the washers underneath are #10 x 1-1/4, and on top #10 x 3/4.

Those phillips head screws are just temporary. I'll use 10-32 hex head plated steel in the door jamb, so I can use my magnetic nutdriver to drop them in. The others by the hood and underneath will be stainless hex head.

ViperVon · Apr 22, 2008

dave6666 said:
All the hardware came from McMaster Carr. I think the ones underneath are #10 x 1-1/4, and on top #10 x 3/4.

Those phillips head screws are just temporary. I'll use 10-32 hex head plated steel in the door jamb, so I can use my magnetic nutdriver to drop them in. The others by the hood and underneath will be stainless hex head.

Looks NIIIIIIICE!! :2tu:

You'll notice a huge temp difference with the R/T High Flows alone. Add all that bottom ventilation and you should be serving up slurpies..........

Viper GTS · Apr 22, 2008

Nice Ida i should try it =)

I think it will work for me !

In summer it hell over here my Viper GTS Roasts in the heat over here in Saudi Arabia.

DrDJ · Apr 22, 2008

Brilliant!

Can you run your car with the pre-existing set up on one side and your setup on the other and measure some temps? A lot of folks say that their side sills are so much cooler by changing to HF CATS or no CATS +/- extra insulation. Mine stayed pretty d@mn hot regardless.

DrDJ

triblk6spd · Apr 22, 2008

Very nice! I may try the same thing only with half the holes. I like the attention to detail also.

GTSnake · Apr 23, 2008

I'd be curious to see the temp difference :eater:

FATHERFORD · Apr 23, 2008

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MSpaint roxors!

got one · Apr 24, 2008

hell of an idea dave! Can't wait to see it in person...i'll be up in DFW the weekend of the 5th of may...

Warfang · Apr 24, 2008

Takes off 4 oz. in weight! An improvement of 2 seconds quicker on the track!

Side sills so cold they spit ice cubes

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