First time on the track: Advice?

Steve-Indy said:

Suggest that you "tape" chin, nose, painted edges of wheel-wells & fronts of side sills.

You may go through the Red Stuff pads faster than you think...might take some spare pads/jack/tools along.

...and BE SURE that your coolant is updated and at correct levels in the overflow bottle in the front fascia...new pressure cap is a good investment as it may prevent the overflow bottle from "puking" coolant into path of right front tire.

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• Check / change the oil (fill to top mark on dipstick; flushed within 30 days).
• Check / change radiator fluid. Add Redline Water Wetter to radiator.
• Check / change power steering fluid.
• Check transmission and differential fluids.
• Check for any fluid leaks.
• Check brake lines for cracks (stainless steel brake lines and "Speed Bleeders" are also a good investment) and make sure your brake lines have enough length in them when your suspension is fully extended. You can buy directly from speedbleeder.com or other performance vendors.
• Check / change brake fluid (flushed within 30 days).
  Check brake pads (should be 50% or better).
  Brake lights operational?
• Check / change clutch fluid.
• If pulling tranny/torque tube out of car for other maintenance, check around the bolt holes on the clutch pressure plate for cracking. Once you get to 40-50 track days, if you pick up a vibration in your car that varies with the clutch in and out, I would bet the pressure plate is beginning to get cracks around the bolt holes.
• Check hoses and belts for cracks
• Check rotors (especially the front rotors) and hubs for cracks and wear.
  Check tires for excessive wear, flat-spots, cuts and bad/worn/cracked valve stems; pressure (30-31 psi); torque lug nuts (100 ft-lbs recommended). Check wheels for cracks, especially around the spokes (this is even true of heavily used CCWs).
• Check the steering & suspension for excess play or clunking sounds. Check sway bar nuts and bolts, especially on the front where the sway bar bolts to the aluminum a-arm. With the car on jacks, wiggle the wheels. If they have some play and move back & forth with your hands at 6 and 12 o'clock, you probably have bad wheel bearings. If they show some play with your hands at 3 and 9 o'clock, you probably have worn tie-rod end-links.
• Drink extra water before track day, especially if during summer months.

• Check / adjust tire pressure (30-31 psi cold, ~40 psi hot). Remove center caps. Tape up wheel weights with duct tape or that shiny silver/heat-reflective tape so when the wheel weight adhesive melts from the rotor heat that they don't fall off your wheel.
  Add oil to equal 1 quart over full (=7.5 qts)
  Gas cap secured.
• No exposed wires.
• Seats bolted tightly.
• Make sure driver’s seat back is up-right and seat is close enough that you can reach the steering wheel with bent arms at the elbows. You will have much better car control this way.
• Buckle passenger seat belt (if unused).
• Remove floor mats and ALL other loose objects.
• Clean windows and mirrors with windex.
• Apply racer’s tape / car numbers. Tape up the rocker panels below the doors and behind the doors go has high-up and all around the rear brake ducts. On tracks with debris and gravel, this is where 95+% of the paint chipping will occur.
  Make sure transponder, if any, is secured by at least two tie-straps, plus some tape is recommended, too.

• Driving suit or clothes that meet requirements (long sleeves, long pants, cotton material, etc.)
• Racing shoes or similar that meet requirements (no open toe, etc.)
  Helmet (DOT may be acceptable; but check first. Best to have Snell 2000 or newer, SA rated rather than M rated).
  Required forms, completed in advance (e.g., medical, pre-tech, helmet/harness release).
• Race tape
  
  
  Stuff To Bring (Highly Recommended):
• Tire pressure gauge
• Tire air compressor
• Engine oil (1-2 quarts)
• 1 container of brake fluid
• Brake bleeding equipment (tube/bottle, etc.)
• Duct tape
• Fire extinguisher
• WD-40
• Windex
• Paper towels / rags / wipes
• Cotton towel for yourself
• Torque wrench w/ socket
• Other tools (sockets, wrenches, pliers, screwdrivers, etc...)
• Bottled water, Gatorade, etc.
• Food, energy bars, etc.

• Spare parts (This is probably overkill for the novice driver. However, it is always better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it.)
  • Serpentine belt
  • Brake pads
  • Rotors (front & rear)
  • Wheel hubs (front & rear)
  • Caliper bolts and caliper bracket bolts and caliper pins
  • Short and long 02 sensors
  • Knock sensor
  • Spark plugs
  • Spark plug wires
  • Fuel filter
  • Fuel injector set
• Jack
• Jack stands
• Jumper cables
• Funnel for oil
• Tie wraps
• Tire pyrometer
• Run flat aerosol cans
• Service manual
• Grease
• Hand soap or waterless hand cleaner
• Ice chest with lots of water
• Sunglasses
• Sun screen
• Camera
• Camera batteries charged
• Extra tapes if you are doing in-car video (Don't use DVD or hard drive cameras. They don't record properly in the high G-force environment of the track.)
• Stopwatch
• Flashlight
• Map/directions/phone number of hotel
• Map/directions/phone number of track
• Gloves
• Folding chair
• Umbrella
• Ground tarp
• Rain tarp
• Extra set of keys

• Tire pressure
• Torque lugs
• Fuel

• Memory Button – #1
• HUD – Track Mode
• AH – Off or Comp Mode
• NPP Valves – Open
• Radio/Nav – OFF
• Air Cond – OFF
• Seat Belt – Ratchet tight
• DRL’s – OFF

Steve-Indy said:

Many Vipers use Redline P.S. fluid for this type of event...I have some if you decide to use it...I can only get it ariound here at Racer's Wholesale Supply...downtown, at Doman (sp) and EAST Michigan St...just EAST of I-65.

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Purdue_Boiler_Viper said:

Thanks Steve. Have been to Racer's Wholesale many times.

Next question for all of you pros. A Snell 2000 helmet is required. Should I go for an open face model or closed? I don't see a need for a visor in a GTS.

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