Post your Upgraded Fuel system

Most fuel pump manufacturers require you pick up fuel from the bottom of the tank Vs siphon and return fuel on the bottom of the tank Vs the top of the tank. When siphoning from the top, your pump is susceptible to losing prime and aeration which in turn will usually lower the life expectancy of your pump and can cause your engine to lean under load. When returning fuel on the top of your tank, your fuel system has the susceptibility of becoming aerated and foam. Just my $.02.

ViperBing said:

Given that the RSI fuel pump hanger is on sale for $399, which setup do you think will work better? Modding the factory hanger per Tony's design, or the RSI billet hanger?

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There was not a hanger when I did mine. It looks pretty easier but actually took a lot of hours. I said earlier that the RSI hanger very well might be the way to go. Certainly is unless you are a capable DIYer. I'm pretty darn cheap and I would go the RSI route myself...at least at the $399. Higher price and I would rethink. I hope RSI can keep it at this price for our community.

Larry has a valid point too.
On the return, Mine returns fuel just like the factory set-up does. That is by just dropping into the canister. Maybe the canister settles the fuel the fuel. On the RSI if it just drops, there is probably a way to hang a line to the bottom of the tank. Might not matter with a reasonable amount of fuel in the tank.

One poor set-up I have seen is a fuel cell fitting on one side of the tank and an external pump. guess what happens in turns with lower fuel levels.
I have seen another external pump car but don't know where the pick-up was...it would lose fuel under 1/4 tank in straight excelleration.

I run a return on the top of the tank and have never had an issue. I have run my tank to empty with no drop in pressure ever.

Just bought Plums two Walbros he had advertised...so its off to the races...will update as I progress along with the install (probably several weeks away from starting).

Darn you Eric!
I was going to buy those next week
Well, that just means you have to install them and let us know how you did it

they shipped last night, eric you have mail.

I was out last night in the heat. Took the 60 degree tune out from my trip to Virgina and put my 90 degree tune in with a couple of small adjustments to the W/M and timing and for some reason...it just really screamed. Could not get it to run lean at all at any RPM so the BAP thing must be working just fine. I don't thnik it has ever pulled all the way through 3rd like it did last night. I have a can of TORCO octane additive that I am itching to use. Right now running the local 93 octaine with home brew 50/50 mix of W/M. 100 octane SUNOCO is $7.40 a gallon here...so the TORCO is a better deal if it works. A guy in the office has a plane and states I can get 100 octane low lead AVGAS for around $3.50-4.00 a gallon at the air strip. I wonder of low lead would ruin the 02 sensors? Also, I was looking at places to install the boost referenced fuel pressure regulator and wonder where most are installing theirs? I have custom air filters so I have the area on the aluminum cross member right in front of the blower available. Easy to get at...probably look pretty cool to. I'd hate to hide it underneath the car somewhere.

I run Torco and it works good in my opinion. It will leave orange deposits in your engine / exhaust / plugs but they are suppose to be harmless. I have run it for the last 7000 miles or so without incident.

I buy the 5 gallon drums, runs about $240 shipped. I use about 20 oz per tank, so lasts about 32 tanks in my application. If you used 32oz per tank, that would be 20 tanks worth or $12 per tank.

Thanks Ken. I got the TORCO idea from you !! I guess a lot of bike riders use it, keeping a can in their backpacks if they can't find high octane gas. I wish I knew what octane I really needed. The W/M kinda cheats the actual math. I don't like leaving any timing on the table. I guess I could get a tank of 100 octane and tune without W/M just to see the timing I can run...but then I run into the heat-induced issues at 13 PSI boost. So maybe just use water injection at that point...? Just takes so much time and expense to mess around with all this. Right now I'm running a total of 25 degrees advance at 6k with 93 octane and 50//50 W/M. I read Simms with his new twin turbo that M2 built is running 20 degrees max timing. Not sure what RPM he's pulling that at.

http://www.kennebell.net/techinfo/general-info/BAPsvtFocus_kens.pdf
Pretty good Cobra article on Boost-a Pump and fuel pressure/flow trade-offs. I guess the biggest issue with our cars is the fact that you can't get moe that 55 PSI line pressure regardless of what you need without going to a boost referenced/return/regulated system. The BAP can get the increased flow, but not the increased line pressure to compensate for manifold boost. Always learning something.

I have a MSD fuel pump booster, but it works on a scale of 5 psi (15volts) to 30 psi (22 volts) to add voltage. The problem is that the Roe isn't making anything close to 30 psi. So, at 10 psi the MSD isn't adding anywhere near the 22 volts that it could add.

I don't know if it is possible to recalibrate the MSD unit to work on a scale of 5 - 12 psi?

For all of you that are running fuel pumps in the the trans tunnel, I would recommend getting a driveshaft loop for extra protection. Last thing you want is a drive shaft breaking and flopping around hitting fuel components.

Great Thread here! Would like to see some new setups.

Putting this great thread back in circulation for new readers and any updates

BOTTLEFED said:

I'd like to hear some opinions from those that know the stock system about the reasons for upgrading the pump.
What HP does the stock pump max out? does it matter if the car is n/a, nitrous, Roe, Paxton, TT?
Why does it max out? flow? psi?
Is the Walbro the better choice just because it can be regulated to higher psi?
What HP does the Walbro max out? why?

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I'm running the stock pump with a KB boost-a-pump and the 2 inline pumps with the Paxton fuel system and am making 909 rwhp, and I have no problem keeping my A/F at 11.5 to 1.

Mine is a bit overkill for my project but wanted to do it right the first time around for upgrading mods later down the road. I have been keeping pretty steady track of my system and all of the components. Car is still in the process of being built but should be around 600HP with a Paxton / air-to-air front mount Intercooled setup on about 5 or 6lbs of boost. I wanted ALOT of fuel to support my creampuff engine. Went through some reciepts laying around and a few other fuel items estemated in to the parts / pricing listed below. One thing I changed recently is, I went with a 3/8 (basically an AN -6 size) Stainless Steel braided line full return from the regulator to the tank, instead of using the stock fuel line setup as I originally ran.






Below is a copy / paste of another post I made of my fuel system a little while back on the Alley.

Some of you know I have been building a fuel system for my Paxton supercharger I'm installing on my 01' Creampuff motor in my 98' GTS. I was able to route everything so that I can use my fuel pressure regulator / gauge efficiently while tuning the car (ART will do the tune). I could have routed the regulator in a way, like I have seen most fuel systems done that would have made this project go ALOT faster, but I wanted to have easy effective access to the regulator, to tweak fuel when needed and to monitor fuel pressure. Now all that is left for me on this project is to tighten everything down and pressurize the system for a leak test.

*note - I did have to install spacers to go under the injectors so they would fit in right, because they are short. I used the BLUE spacers from Injector Dynamics, which had a larger opening so it would not block the injector spray pattern. We filed these down, only slightly (basically, only removing the paint on the outside) so they would slip into the stock injector holes and still seal with the o-ring. I also had to "snip off" the side molding of the injectors, so they would fit inside the ROE Fuel Rail mounting brackets (they surround the injector holes). The ROE mounting brackets... I had to grind out the hole that surrounded the injector hole, so that the Injectors would fit in. The holes were originally a little too small for ID Injectors.
Components:

Twin in tank Walbro 255 fuel pumps (kit built by ART) - approx $600
Aeromotive 12304 - 100 Micron, ORB-10 Red Fuel Filter - approx $100
ROE Racing fuel rails (kit came with mounting brackets) - approx $500
ID 750cc Injectors - approx $1,000
Aeromotive A1000 p/n (13101) regulator and gauge - approx $200
AN -10 lines from pump to back side of fuel rails
AN -8 lines from front of fuel rails to regulator
Using the stock fuel source for the return line back to the tank
All steel braided lines and AN fittings ordered from Summit - approx $300
Oil Breather / baffled Catch Cans were ordered from Ebay - approx $100
Total cost around $3,000.