Got a Roe Supercharger? Please read

KNG SNKE · Nov 13, 2009

Never said mess with anything. Just make a log or 2 to see where your really at. Sorry but any vehicle with an aftermarket supercharger or turbo kit should be able to log and it is a good thing to have common knowledge of the kit and what it is doing so you know what to look for when there might be a problem.

Drmcar · Dec 21, 2009

I am runing a 8 1/2 pulley Is any one doing a 10 lb?? garth

KNG SNKE · Dec 21, 2009

Drmcar said:
I am runing a 8 1/2 pulley Is any one doing a 10 lb?? garth

Many folks running 10lb pulleys. What is your question? Off the top of my head you can talk to Ellowviper, he definitely has a 10lb pulley running.

Red Snake · Dec 22, 2009

I stepped up from the 8 to the 10 pound pulley. Here are my observations and a couple of things to consider.

I found that my factory fuel system was maxed out with the 8 pound set up. So I upgraded to the Walbro 255 fuel pump when I put the 10 pound pulley on.

I made 635/670 on the 8 pound pulley and 660/710 on the 10 pound (w/m with both setups). Tuning for both setups was done by Joe D at PBJ Performance (one of the best tuners).

My OEM power steering pulley failed shortly after moving to the 10 pound pulley, probably due to more tension on the belt. So I'd replace the PS pulley while you are in there.

treesnake · Dec 22, 2009

I am, running a 12# pulley with a Weaver crank pulley....14# Total

Like Redsnake said, when you change from 8# to 10# or more, there is a lot to consider..
Fuel is one, I am running 2- 255 Walbros, braided fuel lines from tank to engine. (to handle added fuel pressure and use) And a new set of bigger injectors.
Plus, additional strain on crank snout. Also need to consider condition of bottom half of engine.

All that for a couple extra pounds of boost.... :dunno:

EllowViper · Dec 22, 2009

I'm pulling mine after Christmas to do some R&D. I'd like to design a Laminova intercooler in the manifold as well as other "things" involving a different blower.

99 R/T 10 · Dec 22, 2009

treesnake said:
I am, running a 12# pulley with a Weaver crank pulley....14# Total

Like Redsnake said, when you change from 8# to 10# or more, there is a lot to consider..
Fuel is one, I am running 2- 255 Walbros, braided fuel lines from tank to engine. (to handle added fuel pressure and use) And a new set of bigger injectors.
Plus, additional strain on crank snout. Also need to consider condition of bottom half of engine.

All that for a couple extra pounds of boost....

Hey Treesnake,
how much more heat is there running 14#? What are you best dyno numbers with that setup?

treesnake · Dec 22, 2009

99 R/T 10 said:
Hey Treesnake,
how much more heat is there running 14#? What are you best dyno numbers with that setup?

When I was breaking the new engine in, the temp never went above 190.
BUT... I never took the engine over 4000RPM until it was delivered to ART a couple months ago. It was taken there to get "turned up". Tune in the 2-stage Nos and my own experiment..CO2 plumbed through the Roe intake...
Made a couple passes on the dyno. David Weaver's plan was to start tuning with the W/****. Then 2-stage Nos, then see what effect the CO2 had.
After getting close to the top end, before WM or other "drugs" were injected, the engine started blowing blue in top end.....

Long story short, 27% leakdown in one cylinder. My "New" engine was to be pulled this week or next.....

. Needs rings... .

So... I do know that while on dyno the car did not overheat. I belive boost was taken to about 12#. I am using a Fluidyne radiator, 190 thermostat and a water wetter coolant additive.

This is my dyno sheet before water/****, no Nos, no CO2...

EllowViper · Dec 22, 2009

I need to dyno mine...maybe next week since I took the entire week off.

KNG SNKE · Dec 22, 2009

EllowViper said:
I need to dyno mine...maybe next week since I took the entire week off.

Before you start pawning off parts you better pm me

Drmcar · Dec 22, 2009

Thanks for the input guys. I think I will stay just where I am. Merry Christmas to all and a healthy happy New Year. Garth

Leslie · Dec 25, 2009

great info, let's get this thread back on track

EllowViper · Dec 25, 2009

So what is the collective opinion...intercooler or just stay with W/M? The more I research fabricating an intercooler (and all the plumbing related issues), it might just be better to stay with W/M. I like W/M because of the octane aspect of it as well as keeping the combustion chamber clean too. You can't really run W/M if you have an intercooler under the manifold since theoretically you might just end up heating the air up vice cooling it down if your W/M cooled air is colder that the liquid in the intercooler. That would be bad. So at the end of the day, if you need high octane and intercooling, may as well stay with the "chemical" intercooler and keep it simple.

BOTTLEFED · Dec 25, 2009

EllowViper said:
So what is the collective opinion...intercooler or just stay with W/M? The more I research fabricating an intercooler (and all the plumbing related issues), it might just be better to stay with W/M. I like W/M because of the octane aspect of it as well as keeping the combustion chamber clean too. You can't really run W/M if you have an intercooler under the manifold since theoretically you might just end up heating the air up vice cooling it down if your W/M cooled air is colder that the liquid in the intercooler. That would be bad. So at the end of the day, if you need high octane and intercooling, may as well stay with the "chemical" intercooler and keep it simple.

Unless you have the W/M nozzles mounted in the manifold like you do

KNG SNKE · Jan 13, 2010

For you Roe guys that haven't joined yet, The Roe Express interest group has hit 55 members, lets go for 60.

Those of you interested in purchasing a Roe, installing a Roe, general questions about a Roe, drop on by and feel free to PM anyone in the members list. There is a world of knowledge and experience to go around.

BOTTLEFED · Jan 14, 2010

cool
it would be neat to see all the VCA guys that have a Roe join in this group

I thought I read that there is about 200 Roe S/Cs in existence
I'm sure Sean could answer this most accurately

plumcrazy · Jan 14, 2010

tator could tell you as well i think. i know he installed more roe than roe has to date.

treesnake · Jan 14, 2010

EllowViper said:
So what is the collective opinion...intercooler or just stay with W/M? The more I research fabricating an intercooler (and all the plumbing related issues), it might just be better to stay with W/M. I like W/M because of the octane aspect of it as well as keeping the combustion chamber clean too. You can't really run W/M if you have an intercooler under the manifold since theoretically you might just end up heating the air up vice cooling it down if your W/M cooled air is colder that the liquid in the intercooler. That would be bad. So at the end of the day, if you need high octane and intercooling, may as well stay with the "chemical" intercooler and keep it simple.

You will get a wide range of answers...

One theory is that WM is dangerous to "tune against". In other words, if the WM is a key part of your tune, and you are relying on it, you will be in trouble if the line clogs, air bubble etc. I have a small LED that lights up when pump is activated....

The CO2 system I am using, IF it works, will work for a short period of time time.

But, the alternative is.... an intercooler.

Unfortunately, a custom intercooler system is not cost effective. Especially since the WM seems to work OK.... :dunno:

EllowViper · Jan 14, 2010

I drove in today and for some reason my W/M stopped working. I have the LED thinggy too so I could see it was not cycling on. Knowing my W/M was not working, I started to mess around with it off and man-o-man, it knocks like "right now" when I go above 5 PSI....so in the final analysis the W/M REALLY WORKS!!!. Now when I shut the car off and restarted, the W/M started to work again and WOW, what a difference. I think my VEC might be having issues with the PWM output that triggers my pump...either that, a ground, or I have a relay that is sticking. I can't imagine how much timing one would have to pull running 10+ PSI without W/M on 93 octane. I think with W/M I'm only pulling at max 6-7 degrees from stock.

Wads97GTS · Jan 14, 2010

Hello everyone, I will be a member of the Roe club very soon. I just purchased Nate's damaged Roe and will be receiving it shortly. I'm coming over from the Procharged C5 Corvette side and really looking forward to the Roe. I talked to both Mike and Sean at Roe about the damage and they sent me about 10 pics to show exactly what was damaged in shipping. I'll post those soon. I'll also be looking for anyone that wants to trade pullies. It has a 10psi pulley on it now and I want a 8psi pulley.

KNG SNKE · Jan 14, 2010

Congrats on your purchase and feel free to ask any questions while your doing the install (least I hope your installing yourself)

Look into becoming a member on here as well, nice write ups in the members section about different additions to the roe and installations.

Wads97GTS · Jan 14, 2010

KNG SNKE said:
Congrats on your purchase and feel free to ask any questions while your doing the install (least I hope your installing yourself)

Look into becoming a member on here as well, nice write ups in the members section about different additions to the roe and installations.

Thanks, I will be doing the install myself. Here are some pics of the Roe. I'm not really concerned about the cosmetic part of it, since the car is a driver.

You must be registered for see images

KNG SNKE · Jan 14, 2010

Not too bad. Most of that can be fixed with sand paper and paint/powder coat. The tube definitely needs to be repaired though. Good luck.

Purdue_Boiler_Viper · Jan 14, 2010

I'm in! Good thread.

FastZilla · Jan 15, 2010

What's a Roe?

J/K! I joined.

KNG SNKE · Jan 15, 2010

FastZilla said:
What's a Roe?

J/K! I joined.

Something you do to move faster on water.

treesnake · Jan 15, 2010

EllowViper said:
I drove in today and for some reason my W/M stopped working. I have the LED thinggy too so I could see it was not cycling on. Knowing my W/M was not working, I started to mess around with it off and man-o-man, it knocks like "right now" when I go above 5 PSI....so in the final analysis the W/M REALLY WORKS!!!. Now when I shut the car off and restarted, the W/M started to work again and WOW, what a difference. I think my VEC might be having issues with the PWM output that triggers my pump...either that, a ground, or I have a relay that is sticking. I can't imagine how much timing one would have to pull running 10+ PSI without W/M on 93 octane. I think with W/M I'm only pulling at max 6-7 degrees from stock.

That's exactly what I am talking about...

Just think what would have happened if you were at 5000 RPMs and the water **** stopped working...

..and your $20K engine and tune are "dependant" on the WM....

:rip:

...

VECs don't have the ability to adapt to that situation. The **** is "on" and tuned on one card. The **** is "off" and tuned with another card...

Damned if you do, damned if you don't... :dunno:

EllowViper · Jan 17, 2010

Man I just LOVE this car!! Just did a quick drive before the Vikings/Cowboys game started. With the windows down at WOT the blower just screams a sweet song! Quiet blower....NO WAY...sounds like a ***** freightliner going through the gears and with the W/M cooling things down and sealing up the rotor lobes even more, its just plain criminal fun! I wonder if the newer/shorter blowers might have a different gears set in them vs. the older/longer ones? Might be why some folks state their blowers do not make much noise? Did you all know Sean used two different blowers on his systems? The early ones used a longer OPCON MX424 2.4 liter blower and the newer ones used a shorter one. Thus the different inlet on the rear that you see on some systems. For what its worth, the new Kenne Bell 2.8H blower is dimensionally identical to the older 2.4...hint hint Sean is currently rubbing his hands together with some new ideas for his older systems...

uvbnbit · Mar 11, 2010

Car's been sitting for 3.5 months now. We've had some nice weather, but I haven't had any time to get it out. I've been studying my VEC software and DY's tutorials again, getting ready to do some logging.
Anybody know off hand what the log setting figure would be for 3rd gear logging with 3.55 gears, stock 18" wheels/tires?

KNG SNKE · Mar 14, 2010

uvbnbit said:
Car's been sitting for 3.5 months now. We've had some nice weather, but I haven't had any time to get it out. I've been studying my VEC software and DY's tutorials again, getting ready to do some logging.
Anybody know off hand what the log setting figure would be for 3rd gear logging with 3.55 gears, stock 18" wheels/tires?

hopefully someone chimes in. i have stock gears so no difference for me.

Got a Roe Supercharger? Please read

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