00SVTdubs
Enthusiast
which leads me to my next question to Dan.... how much for the pusher fans shipped to CO 80526?
Heat/Overheat Problem
- Thread starter jasontiff
- Start date
eucharistos
Enthusiast
Here is a link to our fan kit on the website. Please call and I will go over all the fitment instructions.
DC Performance: Proven Performance
DC Performance: Proven Performance
Bolt
Viper Owner
thanks for the installed pics bolt,
what else is under your hood
any pics
If you realy have time here is a link to the pictures of my build. There is some videos mixed in too so you may want to skip over them. There is over 500 pictures . I hope this does not bore you. You may need more than one bag of popcorn. Be sure to click the show all button at the top right corner to see all the thumbnails.
Viper build
As you can see I have chased this heating problem too. I just wish I would of put these fans in first. Unfortunately it was the last.
Last edited:
eucharistos
Enthusiast
thanks for the link to your fine pictorial 
looked thru all of them
wish i can do 1/10 the work you can (note, not have to but can do
)
looked thru all of themwish i can do 1/10 the work you can (note, not have to but can do
)00SVTdubs
Enthusiast
how much installed if I drive the car to you in mid/late June? My sister lives right by you guys!
I have a lot of work done to the car right now, heads/cam/motor, etc. I may look at having you tune a n20 system too, do you guys have a lot of experience with n20 and tuning, etc? Just curious as I have seen mostly SC cars come out of there...
let me know!
eucharistos
Enthusiast
hey Bolt, been meaning to ask, how would you rate cutting open the other hood speaker for heat reduction? was washing, rain and/or dust a problem? would you do it again?
tia
Tom F&L GoR
Enthusiast
Cutting open the driver's speaker hole does allow a lot of heat to excape; I can see the heat waves rising when stopped, but it's having the fan running that pushes the air through. So I would say at speed it allows more flow; at stop not nearly a help unless the fan(s) is/are capable.
The hole is just above the clutch fluid reservoir, so make it tight. Washing, rain, dust get in, but then I'm not a good example of whether that is good or bad. I would do it again.
The hole is just above the clutch fluid reservoir, so make it tight. Washing, rain, dust get in, but then I'm not a good example of whether that is good or bad. I would do it again.
Bolt
Viper Owner
very good question! I would do this again in a heart beat. Just take notice where your computer is located. When you turn your car off all that heat is going to your computer. I don't have the exact numbers but after I cut the hole in the hood my computer would be about 30 degrees cooler. There is so much heat coming out of that hole when running or when stopped. As for the washing. No problem here. The water seams to miss everything and runs down between the engine and frame rail. I found this was so easy to do and a major benefit that I can't believe they did not do this from the factory on all their cars. Plus this could be easily reversible with a rubber plug. A big one of course if desired. I wish there was more places I could allow the heat to get out. These engines get very hot under the hood. Mine does anyway. I wish there was more opening on the hood along the cowl area. Or the hood should be raised slightly more in the cowl area for ventilation along the windshield. This will allow more air flow near the rear of the engine.
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dave6666
Enthusiast
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Really though, so how did you trim out this hole? Rubber edging? Paint? Bare ass cut plastic?
Bolt
Viper Owner
Really though, so how did you trim out this hole? Rubber edging? Paint? Bare ass cut plastic?
Piece of black trunk edge trim.. Looks great. I'll have to get a picture of that.
ViperGeorge
Enthusiast
I've read all of the posts and while someone did mention this it seems like it was skipped over. If the radiator and heater core were clogged (60% in the case of the radiator) wouldn't there be a very good chance that the engine's cooling passages are clogged as well? Second, if the engine was modified with new heads and stuff to increase HP, then the engine will generate more heat, correct?
dave6666
Enthusiast
I'll give a reply to you gbatejan, but I'm not the expert. Just some sound thoughts.
The radiator is a completely different alloy from the block and the shape of the passages is entirley different. Micro chemistry at the surface is therefore different. Flow characteristics and velocities are way different. So I would say no, one does not have to follow the other.
More hp seems like it would make more heat - a byproduct of combustion - but if you also improve the airflow (head work etc.) then some of that additional heat simply goes out the exhaust pipe with the improved CFM's.
The radiator is a completely different alloy from the block and the shape of the passages is entirley different. Micro chemistry at the surface is therefore different. Flow characteristics and velocities are way different. So I would say no, one does not have to follow the other.
More hp seems like it would make more heat - a byproduct of combustion - but if you also improve the airflow (head work etc.) then some of that additional heat simply goes out the exhaust pipe with the improved CFM's.
what about the car running lean- all i have to say is if the car overheats or runs hotter than normal going down the hyway at normal speeds,differant or more cooling fans is not the correct way to fix the car.if it didnt do it from new then there is a problem somewhere,sticking fans everywere im shure is great but only a bandaid fix- and as far as the cooling system be all plugged up, i would start with getting the complete system very clean, like a new heatercore,radiater and ******** block flush.you cannot flush clean a heatercore correctly perfect
eucharistos
Enthusiast
thanks for the replies
i'm considering this or venting the cowl
summer began here today (74 and sunny today) must do something about heat soak to cabin
i'm considering this or venting the cowl
summer began here today (74 and sunny today
) must do something about heat soak to cabin ViperGeorge
Enthusiast
Dave, you're probably right but a 60% blockage of the radiator would still cause me to wonder about the rest of the system. The radiator might block faster but I've seen cooling passages on blocks that have become clogged. Wouldn't hurt to do a serious flush of the system. Seems like cheap insurance.
dave6666
Enthusiast
Iron blocks, or aluminum that you've seen clogged? And yes, a flush is cheap insurance. No arguments there.
Bolt
Viper Owner
Really though, so how did you trim out this hole? Rubber edging? Paint? Bare ass cut plastic?
Here is the pic Dave
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Bolt
Viper Owner
There is many right ups on this in other posts so I will make this one brief. On Gen II and up there is a plug on the thermostat housing which is the high point of the coolant system. To find this plug you must look strait down on the engine. It is not easy to find. With the engine cold you remove your radiator cap. Then remove this plug. Assuming there is air in the block no antifreeze will come out immediately. As you may put water or antifreeze in the coolant tank the level at this plug will come up till the antifreeze comes out this hole. Once the antifreeze comes out the hole reinsert the plug and top off your coolant tank. Side note On gen I you take off the radiator hose. Take note that the factory plug takes an Allan wrench. I replace my hex plug with a square head which I slotted for accepting a screwdriver. I suggest doing this cause if you break down somewhere it is easer to find a screwdriver than it is to find an allan wrench to fit the factory plug. This happened to me. I’m not 100% sure on all the generations having the plug. I just know that mine (Gen II) has this plug.
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dave6666
Enthusiast
Or put the Roe hoses in which is actually the highest point in the system.
Aside from that, a Gen 2 system when working properly will self purge itself to a degree. Small amounts of air will automatically work themselves out.
Some key things to that scenario working:
-> Overflow bottle in fascia must remain at proper fill level always.
-> Radiator cap must be good.
-> Hose from coolant surge tank to fascia overflow bottle must be good.
I have a write-up in the Illustrated Upgrade section that discusses some of this with pics. The fascia bottle filling and checking that is.
Aside from that, a Gen 2 system when working properly will self purge itself to a degree. Small amounts of air will automatically work themselves out.
Some key things to that scenario working:
-> Overflow bottle in fascia must remain at proper fill level always.
-> Radiator cap must be good.
-> Hose from coolant surge tank to fascia overflow bottle must be good.
I have a write-up in the Illustrated Upgrade section that discusses some of this with pics. The fascia bottle filling and checking that is.
wish I would have done a bit more research before buying this car... Im having the same deal. It runs great until slow speeds/traffic/idle then gets into the yellow on the gauge. If I shut the car off, the fans then come on in a min or so and stay on for a while.
sweet... maybe its time I sell this one and get back into a GTS or SRT10 this time...
anyone want a sweet RT10 for $20k?
FAMILY EMERGENCY, want something new, overheating problem, etc???? WHICH ONE IS IT Eric?
modded Dodge Viper for sale $21,000 - Viper Alley - Dodge Viper Forum
unless its ******* hot and no heater,it doesnt have air in the system
00SVTdubs
Enthusiast
john, the previous owner put cats back on.... ive never had it overheat at all... yes it runs a little warm but thats life for a 93... took the cats off and it runs cooler now then before...
like the ad says, call for more info, everything will be explained when people CALL
like the ad says, call for more info, everything will be explained when people CALL
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