Min trailer length for towing an 06 coupe

escapedan · Feb 26, 2010

Does anyone know what length car trailer is needed for towing a 2006 Viper Coupe? I'd like to get the shortest possible trailer but I'm not sure if I can get away with a 14 ft or even 11 ft long trailer. Does anyone know the shortest length trailer that can be used for this car?

past ohio · Feb 26, 2010

It should fit on a 14 foot (bed length) and then you usually have the 3 foot front yolk, I have three type cars like this and they fit nicely... good luck....14 foot equals 168 inches and how long is your car ( just in case you have any ground affects on the front and rear ??!!) Sorry, as I write this I feel a little stupid answering how long a trailer you need

steve911 · Feb 26, 2010

Part of the equation is not just how long but also allowing "some" length for the tie down straps. Typically most people use the existing frame slots, "r" hooks and straps to secure the car to the trailer. If you go too short, there will not be enough room to run the strap out. In my opinion 14 is TOO short. 16' is tight. I have an 18" and it allows some flexibility.

Steve A.

1HOTV10 · Feb 26, 2010

The main factor on a Trailer is how you are going to get the car on it. You will need at least eight foot ramps and a lot of 2x8 boards with a super short trailer.
The longer the trailer the better/ smoother to tow. Save your self a lot of headaches get 18 ft. and preferably with a tilt bed. And don't forget brakes
preferably on both axles.

escapedan · Feb 26, 2010

steve911 said:
Part of the equation is not just how long but also allowing "some" length for the tie down straps. Typically most people use the existing frame slots, "r" hooks and straps to secure the car to the trailer. If you go too short, there will not be enough room to run the strap out. In my opinion 14 is TOO short. 16' is tight. I have an 18" and it allows some flexibility.

Steve A.

Thanks for all the replies. I failed to consider the tie-down issues as I have only used those "U-Haul car hauler" trailers that come with straps that wrap around the front tires. It was also difficult to get the car on the U-Haul trailer due to the ramps being too short (the chassis bottomed out). I had pull the ramps up to a drive way to lessen the angle.

I'm really glad I posted this question before making a purchase. Clearly the 11 foot is out of the question and it seems the same goes for the 14 foot. Good thing is that there seems to be lots of 16 foot trailers out there for sale.

past ohio · Feb 26, 2010

Escapedan....I guess when you first posted your question what was the shortest....there are many ways to tie down the car on the trailer, some on this site think "e track" is the best since sliced bread, others want longer straps to tie down ( I find when the straps are longer, there is more flexing in the strap and the car can actually bounce up and down as it goes down the road and with bounce you can also get hop and most trailers width will cause car damage IF there is hop....IF you want longer straps I would definitely cross the straps as you winch them down...) shorter trailer works good with a smaller type tow vehicle, also with an aluminum trailer your total weight stays around 4500 to pull and easier on the gas tank and stress on the tow vehicle....just my $.02

plumcrazy · Feb 26, 2010

chains w/rathet straps work better than nylon straps IMO

escapedan · Feb 26, 2010

I'm using a 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee V8 as my tow vehicle. So far I have not had any issue with power, but I have not had any crazy hills to climb while towing either. I'd love to go with an aluminum trailer to save on weight and stress to the Jeep's engine (lots of miles now). Also regarding the longer trailes, I am a bit concerned with bottoming out the trailer (near the hitch). That happened with the U-Haul one on some of the steeper gas station driveways.

Would you mind helping me understand "e-track"? I just assumed I would use nylon tie-down straps. Is it ok to attach the straps to the a-arms or are there better locations to attach them?

plumcrazy · Feb 26, 2010

IMO, your trans is in jeopardy...especially on hills

and the brakes on the axles are a good idea.

steve911 · Feb 26, 2010

escapedan said:
I'm using a 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee V8 as my tow vehicle. So far I have not had any issue with power, but I have not had any crazy hills to climb while towing either. I'd love to go with an aluminum trailer to save on weight and stress to the Jeep's engine (lots of miles now). Also regarding the longer trailes, I am a bit concerned with bottoming out the trailer (near the hitch). That happened with the U-Haul one on some of the steeper gas station driveways.

Would you mind helping me understand "e-track"? I just assumed I would use nylon tie-down straps. Is it ok to attach the straps to the a-arms or are there better locations to attach them?

Look at my previous post. Do not attach anything to the A-arms . If you are dragging the tongue the back end of your tow vehicle is too low. get some suspension upgrades to fix the sag.

An aluminum trailer is a good way to go. Mine is aluminum. Use tie down rings properly mounted to the bed of the trailer. E track can and does come loose. do a google search to understand E track.

Steve A.

escapedan · Feb 26, 2010

got it, thanks!

Achilles99 · Feb 26, 2010

I use r-hooks that attach to the frame rail slots in front and back (slots are made for towing). If you don't use a hook, some tow strap hooks will "tear" the slot.

I love the idea of e-track, but use the tie-down rings and they work fine. Go long trailer, you'll have more room to stretch the straps AND you'll have more room to add stuff like a toolbox, tire carrier, etc. later.

past ohio · Feb 26, 2010

Escapedan, if you are using a jeep as a tow vehicle, the V8 I think this is a 5.2, correct !! will just about handle this...I know they put tow ratings on jeeps and Durangos up around 8000 pounds, just pull a car on the trailer once and you will see how important equilizer hitch PLUS sway bars is , the jeep wheel base works against you when towing, you can get a lot of wind/truck passing sway, definitely get brakes on all four trailer wheels, because you will take out the Jeep's brakes very easily !! The Jeep's mirrors don't stick out far enough in some trailer cases, so you may also need mirror extenders to be able to freely see around the trailer...someone wrote about chains and binders, I think that is a lot of overkill and can you imagine if a chain hits the side of the car on the trailer ???!!! Ohhhhhhhhh!!!!!!

Achilles99 · Feb 26, 2010

After driving a trailer with and without brakes, I'll never go back to no brakes. Couple that with a brake controller that will control trailer braking based on speed/deceleration, and you've got a great setup that will be a breeze to tow.

2snakes4us · Feb 26, 2010

this is what you want...get the 20 foot. :2tu:

Kwikload Rollback Trailers

escapedan · Feb 26, 2010

After looking at the website, I recall seeing another Viper guy using one of these Kwikloads. It definitely looks very convenient.

Viper X · Feb 26, 2010

After towing Vipers on trailers for the last 5 years;

1 - I would not go shorter than 18 feet. You will want the ability to take an extra set of tires, some tools, a jack, parts and fluids with you to the track.

2 - Use the R-hooks to tie the cars down with the slots in the frame as stated above. Wratcheting nylon straps are plenty strong, lighter and easier to work with. Check AW Direct for towing supplies.

3 - Trailer brakes and good tires are a must.

4 - A full size diesel truck is the way to go with and enclosed trailer, a lighter truck or SUV works fine with an Aluminum open trailer.

Good luck,

Dan

compcoupe21 · Feb 26, 2010

How far are you planning on going? You are saying that you want to use a 1996 JGC, it's my opinion that no way should you tow roughly 7500/8000 lbs. with that vehicle. Your wheelbase is way too short, you'll be doing wheelies on certain grades and if you have to emergency stop forget it! Even trailer brakes and a Reese set up with sway bars won't prevent your nose from being too light, borrow a long wheelbase pick up or even suburban/tahoe that has a 1500 chassis. I would NOT nuse the Jeep, totally unsafe.

SoCal Rebell · Feb 26, 2010

escapedan said:
I'm using a 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee V8 as my tow vehicle. So far I have not had any issue with power, but I have not had any crazy hills to climb while towing either. I'd love to go with an aluminum trailer to save on weight and stress to the Jeep's engine (lots of miles now). Also regarding the longer trailes, I am a bit concerned with bottoming out the trailer (near the hitch). That happened with the U-Haul one on some of the steeper gas station driveways.

Would you mind helping me understand "e-track"? I just assumed I would use nylon tie-down straps. Is it ok to attach the straps to the a-arms or are there better locations to attach them?

Get a Carson 16' "California" trailer or an AzTex 16' "Oklahoma" trailer, both are open trailers with "Open Centers". I got the Aztex and so did many other of my friends with Vipers. I pulled my Viper with a '96, '97, '01 & '05 JGC V8 all day. Easy loading, tilt fender so you can open your door when loaded, up to 8' stowable ramps for easy loading and have at least one axle with electric brakes.

The best way to tie you Viper down is by the frame, get "R" hooks and 4 10,000# ratchet straps. The rear is simple to get the "R" hooks in and tie down. The fronts are more difficult but that's why you get an open center trailer. Jack the front up slide under the trailer and connect the front.....easy.

I've towed at 90 mph as far as 3,000 miles easy, no problems. Here's a Crason trailer, there's a dealer near you:

Carson Trailer - California Car Hauler Trailer

.

jimchris · Feb 26, 2010

I just bought a new 24' Haulmark enclosed w/Edge pkg. Now the work begins, I need to raise floor 3" to open car door threw the escape door and then need to figure out some type of long ramp system to get the car started up the back ramp. We had 2x12's every where and when we got the front to clear I almost scraped the fins in the back. My car is a lowered Aero Coupe so the front splitter is 3.5" off the ground.

lh4x4 · Feb 26, 2010

General rule of thumb for towing over 3000 lbs is to have a load equalizing hitch, sway bar and trailer brakes.

Check your Owners manual for the tow vehicle. They want to avoid liability and usually have the low limits. Also, with lawyers today, if you are in an accident while towing, you can be sure that they will check the ratings on your tow vehicle and even if you think you are not at fault. They will try to add a greater % of liability to you.

I have been towing since the 60's. The process of hooking up the trailer properly and tying down the load is missed by far to many drivers.

I use a 8.5' X 20' enclosed trailer for mine. I use two sway bars and a load equalizing hitch. The dual axle trailer has brakes on both axles.

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I have a convertible so I just have the top down, shoes off and just stand up and step out. It is not too low to climb the drop tail ramp without a problem. I have 4 of the over the wheel webs (Harbor Fright) and put cross straps from the D rings at the front and rear. I error on the side of overkill.

past ohio · Feb 27, 2010

IH4X4....I have a similar enclosed trailer as you, what I did, I drilled small holes in the roof support frame rails near the left side of the trailer ( since I put the car in forward and driver's seat on the left) and I put through the drilled holes a COATED - cable almost the total length inside of the trailer, and put stop anchors on each end of the cable, this helps me to reach up to the cable and pull myself out of the convertible OR enclosed car, and I also use this overhead cable to help me "walk" the side boxes that house the trailer wheels below....just like a "pull-cord" you may see in a transit bus when you want to alert the driver that you want to get off at the next stop !! Sorry, out of town now and cannot post pictures...hope I explained it clearly...very hard to get up and out of the car in the trailer...my $.02

Big Al · Feb 27, 2010

Don't cheap on the trailer hitch. I like the one the lh4X4 has in the picture. I would also invest in a 12 volt winch and winch the car in and out or on and off, that way you do not have the concern of getting in and out of the car as well the car is being loaded slower and you do not have the worry of scraping the sides if you miss calculate on being centred when you load. A winch in the $300 to $400 arrange is all that is need as long as it powers in and out.

2000 GTS Owner · Feb 27, 2010

This is my 22ft that I use to tow all of my toy's. That is not my viper in there but Dan Lesser's from Viper Specialty Performance.I love the extra room it has also.Driver side escape door is a must!

past ohio · Feb 28, 2010

Big Al, I agree with the winch....since most of the time I load and unload by myself anyway...someone wrote earlier about adding extra length ramps, etc....IF the trailer has a last 4 feet of dropping dovetail bed, the Viper makes it up and over readily, with a winch, you definitely have to be careful loading, you may think you are on level ground and once the car starts moving forward into the trailer, the tongue weight takes over, the front of the trailer lowers some, now the car starts rolling freely to the front and there isn't much you can do about it except if you have your winch controller in your hands and walk alongside the car as loading and if in an emergency, reach in the open window to grab the emergency brake...I like to park the trailer with a steady up hill design and then it makes unloading easier as well...whenever I am around trailers, I also carry a rag in my back pocket and IF you need to throw it under a wheel, it may help to work as a chock if the car starts freerolling, also I added black electrical tape on the left side of my trailer's floor,(have a black/white checkered floor in my trailer so it blends in nicely) and it marks exactly where I want the wheels on the left side to roll into the trailer as I walk and winch the car into the trailer and therefore I don't have to worry about the right side hitting the trailer wheel cover ...just my $.02

jimchris · Feb 28, 2010

2000 GTS Owner said:
This is my 22ft that I use to tow all of my toy's. That is not my viper in there but Dan Lesser's from Viper Specialty Performance.I love the extra room it has also.Driver side escape door is a must!

Wow, you have good door clearance. I'm building ramps kinda like yours. My front tires will come up 3.75" and the rear will come up 2.25" and this will only give me 1" of door clearance.

2000 GTS Owner · Feb 28, 2010

jimchris said:
Wow, you have good door clearance. I'm building ramps kinda like yours. My front tires will come up 3.75" and the rear will come up 2.25" and this will only give me 1" of door clearance.

Yes i have great door clearance and at the end of the ramp's are stopping plate's so i know where to stop. Enjoy your ramp's you wont regret it!

Mike 99ACR · Feb 28, 2010

2000 GTS Owner said:
This is my 22ft that I use to tow all of my toy's. That is not my viper in there but Dan Lesser's from Viper Specialty Performance.I love the extra room it has also.Driver side escape door is a must!

Nice, what name brand or website is that trailer on. Price?

2000 GTS Owner · Feb 28, 2010

Mike 99ACR said:
Nice, what name brand or website is that trailer on. Price?

It's a 1999 Haulmark Silver Edition,I bought it used 2 year's ag

riginal price was close to $13,000 with all the extra's that were installed,9 light's,diamond plate ramp's,diamond plate tool chest,fold up shelf's,hidden spare tire well,insulated wall's and ceiling.

Min trailer length for towing an 06 coupe

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