I got the new cam in today on my build and I thought it would be easy to scrape off the old timing cover gasket with a razor but after a few hours my hands have given up. Is there any trick to removing the old gasket that's glued to the block?
removing old timing cover gasket...
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Danny Balon
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- Dec 25, 2008
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Im going to have to be doing mine soon i have a small leak coming from a worn gasket. Not looking forward to it.
I don't have an air compressor so I might be picking one up soon...here's how you do get it done if you have one...
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2lM7IgqMAiA[/media]
Still wanting to know alternate solutions...
I have worked with many types of gasket removing tools over the years, but they all seem to remove some material on Aluminum surfaces. It takes time, but the best way to remove the gaskets is to soften them up the best you can and use a good old exacto knife. Clean it up with a little 3M scruff pad and you are done.
Back in the day, many mechanics used an abrasive disc to remove gaskets and relied on a little sealer to make it all come together without leaks. Might be good for a quick and cheap repair on an inexpensive car, but not for a Viper.
Back in the day, many mechanics used an abrasive disc to remove gaskets and relied on a little sealer to make it all come together without leaks. Might be good for a quick and cheap repair on an inexpensive car, but not for a Viper.
speedracervr4
Enthusiast
Where did you ge the 3M yellow pad from?
jmillsUT28
Enthusiast
Yo Danny, are you sure you have a worn gasket? Mine was leaking and I thought it was a worn gasket. Before ordering everything I tightened up the timing over bolts and some of them were not tight! 
Now it does not leak! Save me time and money. Even though mine was a little harder to get to b/c of the paxton it was not a hard job. Should be able to do yours in 10 minutes. Might try it. 
Now it does not leak! Save me time and money. Even though mine was a little harder to get to b/c of the paxton it was not a hard job. Should be able to do yours in 10 minutes. Might try it. Olddudesrule
Enthusiast
That looks pretty awesome! I have a large Craftsman compressor and a die grinder, so I'll give that option a chance next time.
I found that video on youtube. It is not me, I'll be heading out today to look for that stuff and let you know if I find it...
Edit:
Okay found them both at sears...
Sears: Appliances, Tools, Electronics, Apparel and more from Craftsman, Kenmore, Diehard and other Leading Brands
Sears: Appliances, Tools, Electronics, Apparel and more from Craftsman, Kenmore, Diehard and other Leading Brands
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speedracervr4
Enthusiast
Yea I've used those pads or the green colored ones on helicopters to clean off the gunk, but I don't know where the company got them from.
Napa has them for 10.39 each. Part number MMM 07527 and the sanding backing plate is part number 05540 for 30.59
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I purchased a bunch of those ROLOC discs from my local NAPA, they work great but they're pretty aggressive. Be careful with these on the timing cover gasket areas as you can easily scrape off more material than you bargained for. I ended up using a exacto knife and razor blade (per Tator). Took 4 beers to get through it but no nicks, scratches or gouges.
I spent about 2 hours last night with a blade and it wasn't got probably 10% done. The gasket is stuck on there bad and it's not just pieces but the whole thing. I didn't have to take my motor out for the cam swap or else I would've just had the machine shop bake the block...
My water pump gasket was this bad too. I soaked it in Permatex gasket remover, scraped, soaked, scraped some more. I hope I never have to do that again.
There's a water pump gasket as well? That did not come in my gasket set...
speedracervr4
Enthusiast
3M also have white (120 grade) colored ones I found on ebay which are less aggressive than the yellow (80 grade) and green (50 grade). You Can get 5 pads for $20 instead of 1 for $10.
Phun70
VCA Venom Member
Absolutely do not! use roloc discs where the debris from the disc or gaskets might get in to the engine oil, water pumps are no big deal, but DONT!, use them elsewhere. Every single manufacturer has forbidden their use on engines at one time or another. Use a carbide scraper and take your time, then you won't have problems. I have personally seen several engines destroyed because a tech decided to use a roloc disc where it wasn't meant to be used.
I just replaced mine a few weeks ago, used a green scotchbrite pad with a razor blade. If you have a large buildup of material then i could maybe justify using a nice putty knife but to beat the dead horse the safe route is the light abrasion/razor blade route. It took me a couple days, had to work on it a few hours a couple nights but I didnt want to risk damaging anything. Good luck
