Help...power steering bracket install

97snk

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so lately i've had nothing but issues with my build. I decided to install the Roe power steering bracket onto the head today. Put the supplied spacer between the head and bracket and started to torque to 28 ft/lbs which the supplied instruction says. The top two bolts kept turning and turning and turning, took them out and the thread from inside the head came out with the screw. At this point what are my options? There's still about an inch of thread left inside the head and the bottom bolt is fine. Should I get a longer bolt and torque to spec? :dunno:

Edit: Images added and I also went back and checked the torque settings on the torque wrench, it is set to 26 ft/lbs...so I couldn't have over torqued the bolt...

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Ratical2

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life saver...thanks :2tu:

Glad to help.
The link in my post was only to show you the contents. I am not sure what size that you need.
The kit usually consists of a tap, helicoil setting tool and 5 to 10 helicoil inserts.
 

RTTTTed

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Take the bolt in to the shop with you for sizing of the helicoils. It's an eazy repair if you can get the drill pointed straight into the head. If the drill won't go straight then you could loosen the motormount bolt and that may give you enough clearance?

Ted
 
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97snk

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Take the bolt in to the shop with you for sizing of the helicoils. It's an eazy repair if you can get the drill pointed straight into the head. If the drill won't go straight then you could loosen the motormount bolt and that may give you enough clearance?

Ted

From the research I've done so far Helicoil is not the way to go, apparently their stuff comes apart. Time Sert makes solid stuff but they are a bit high on price...I'll definitely follow your advice on the sizing and drilling...thanks
 

steve911

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Helicoils have been around probably longer than you and I have been alive. I havwe installed literally hundreds and hundreds in my career. If they are installed according to directions you will not have any problems.

There are manufacturers esp in the aircraft industry that use them right from the get go on purpose in soft materials as it makes for stronger threads.
 

AZTVR

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. At this point what are my options? There's still about an inch of thread left inside the head and the bottom bolt is fine. Should I get a longer bolt and torque to spec?

What I think that I would do is try the longest possible bolt first. Clean out the hole first and then thread the longer bolt in there and make sure that it goes in easily and turns easily with your fingers. If not, a thread chasing tap would be the best bet. If you can turn the bolt in and get more than 3 full turns, then I would try that but with as many threads engagement as you can get.

Drilling out and tapping a new hole for an insert can be tricky to get correctly on axis. I don't see how you are going to do it with the crossmember in place in front of it unless you jack up the engine (and transmiission.)

Chuck would be the one to ask.
 

snakebitdave

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If you don't want to jack up the engine the crossmember isn't that hard to remove. I removed mine when I replaced the timing cover gasket on my '96. In order to remove it you have to get the weight off the front wheels as the crossmember is normally under compression.
 

GTS Dean

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From the research I've done so far Helicoil is not the way to go, apparently their stuff comes apart. Time Sert makes solid stuff but they are a bit high on price...I'll definitely follow your advice on the sizing and drilling...thanks

+10 on the TimeSerts! The first time I saw them used was when I had stripped 5mm wheel stud threads in my shifter kart's front wheel hubs. There was very little meat left and the worked superbly. I bought kits in common bolt sizes for my construction company and we repair a LOT of stripped and wallowed holes - particularly in aluminum housings/castings. My shop superintendent and mechanics swear by them. Ford and GM use them in OEM applications.

++ TIME-SERT Threaded inserts for stripped threads, threaded inserts, thread repair stripped sparkplug's, Ford sparkplug blowouts, threaded inserts threaded, repair stripped threads, stripped threads, inserts threaded inserts, Ford spark plug repair,
 
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AZTVR

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Thanks for the pic.
I'm sure you checked the height with spacers against the stock bracket. I've put a lot of brackets on and have never done one with spacers.

I "think" that the spacers are to account for a different offset on the metal pulley that Roe provides, versus the plastic/bakelite OEM pulley. If one is just replacing the bracket and not the OEM pulley, then the spacers are not needed. (At least this is from my memory from my doing research and doing the same change a year ago.)
 

RTTTTed

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I needed the spacers on my 01 GTS. I thought the spacers were for differences between Gen 1 and 2s?

Ted
 
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97snk

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I "think" that the spacers are to account for a different offset on the metal pulley that Roe provides, versus the plastic/bakelite OEM pulley. If one is just replacing the bracket and not the OEM pulley, then the spacers are not needed. (At least this is from my memory from my doing research and doing the same change a year ago.)

Since I m going to be doing a paxton install, will I need these spacers with the paxton mounting bracket as well since I m using the ROE PS pulley?
 

RTTTTed

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Since I m going to be doing a paxton install, will I need these spacers with the paxton mounting bracket as well since I m using the ROE PS pulley?

The spacers are to align the pulley with the belt. Since yours is a Gen 2 I's say, "Yes" you'll need the spacers. It'll be obvious whether you need the spacers or not as soon as you bolt it up.

Ted
 
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