LifeIsGood
Enthusiast
Removing the Front Fascia from a GEN II
Parts:
Tools:
Remove all of the front fascia fasteners (5 hex screws at each wheel well opening, 4 fascia panel retainers inside the crosshairs, 11 hex bolts under the fascia and 7 fascia panel retainers on top of the fascia) before attempting to remove the fascia. Be looking for shims to fall out of the fascia/wheel well area. I didn’t have any, but I’ve heard that they may be there. I did have a stack of 3 shims on the middle fascia panel retainer on the top of the fascia.
I also had a very unusual looking shim on the driver side fascia panel retainer located just below the headlamp.
Don’t worry about mangling or breaking the fascia panel retainers. They are designed as a single-use product. They should be replaced with new ones (Chrysler # 6501067, fascia panel retainers).
Remove the 5 hex screws at each wheel well opening using a 5/16” socket or wrench
If this is the first time that you’re removing the front fascia, I would recommend that you add more painters tape over the entire area where these screws were removed before you actually start removing the fascia.
There will be binding in the area between the fascia and the wheel well once you start pulling the end of the fascia out away from/around the wheel well (which comes later, don't pull the fascia away from the wheel well yet). The ends of the fascia can be scratched by the outside end of the wheel wells.
Remove the 4 fascia panel retainers located inside the crosshairs using the panel clip pliers.
Be very careful not to scratch the paint around and below the retainers as they will not come out easily.
Remove the 11 hex bolts located under the front fascia just behind the bottom chin spoiler using a 7/16” socket (a small drive socket extension is very handy here). There are small fascia outboard close out panels at each end of the fascia that can be easily removed once the 2 closest to the outside hex bolts have been removed from each end of the fascia.
Open the hood (it does not need to be removed).
Remove the 7 fascia panel retainers located on the top of the fascia just inside the hood using the panel clip pliers.
Disconnect the side marker lamp and fog lamp wiring harnesses on each side. You may want to mark each harness so that they don’t get crossed during the installation (although this can be checked/tested by turning on the lights during the installation process). Disconnecting these harnesses can be completed at the very beginning by accessing the wiring harnesses through the wheel well rubber plugs (4” in diameter) located on the front most side of each front wheel well.
There will probably be some debris that falls out and is caught in and around all of the close out panels.
I want to thank Dave6666 for all of his direction and help when I first attempted this early last year.
Done.
Parts:
- Blue painters tape
- Protective pad/blanket
- New fascia panel retainers (Chrysler # 6501067, tree fasteners)
Amazon.com - Chrysler # 6501067
Clips and Fasteners - Chrysler # 6501067
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Tools:
- Panel clip pliers (for fascia panel retainer removal)
Amazon.com - Panel Clip Pliers
Harbor Freight - Panel Clip Pliers
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- 7/16” socket (under fascia hex body bolts behind the bottom chin spoiler, 11 total)
- 5/16” socket or wrench (wheel well hex screws, 5 on each side)
- 3” or 4” drive socket extension (under fascia hex body bolts behind the bottom chin spoiler)
- the areas around the outer ends of the fascia and inside the wheel wells from the headlight to the very bottom
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- the areas in the crosshairs just below the 4 fascia panel retainers
- the areas in the crosshairs surrounding the 4 fascia panel retainers
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Remove all of the front fascia fasteners (5 hex screws at each wheel well opening, 4 fascia panel retainers inside the crosshairs, 11 hex bolts under the fascia and 7 fascia panel retainers on top of the fascia) before attempting to remove the fascia. Be looking for shims to fall out of the fascia/wheel well area. I didn’t have any, but I’ve heard that they may be there. I did have a stack of 3 shims on the middle fascia panel retainer on the top of the fascia.
You must be registered for see images
I also had a very unusual looking shim on the driver side fascia panel retainer located just below the headlamp.
You must be registered for see images
Don’t worry about mangling or breaking the fascia panel retainers. They are designed as a single-use product. They should be replaced with new ones (Chrysler # 6501067, fascia panel retainers).
Remove the 5 hex screws at each wheel well opening using a 5/16” socket or wrench
If this is the first time that you’re removing the front fascia, I would recommend that you add more painters tape over the entire area where these screws were removed before you actually start removing the fascia.
You must be registered for see images
There will be binding in the area between the fascia and the wheel well once you start pulling the end of the fascia out away from/around the wheel well (which comes later, don't pull the fascia away from the wheel well yet). The ends of the fascia can be scratched by the outside end of the wheel wells.
Remove the 4 fascia panel retainers located inside the crosshairs using the panel clip pliers.
You must be registered for see images
You must be registered for see images
Be very careful not to scratch the paint around and below the retainers as they will not come out easily.
Remove the 11 hex bolts located under the front fascia just behind the bottom chin spoiler using a 7/16” socket (a small drive socket extension is very handy here). There are small fascia outboard close out panels at each end of the fascia that can be easily removed once the 2 closest to the outside hex bolts have been removed from each end of the fascia.
You must be registered for see images
Open the hood (it does not need to be removed).
Remove the 7 fascia panel retainers located on the top of the fascia just inside the hood using the panel clip pliers.
- The 3 in the very middle are the easiest. Leave the center one in place until all others have been removed so that the fascia will remain in place until final removal.
- The next one out on the passenger side may require that you loosen the Hood Ajar Switch located near the passenger side hood latch and headlamp. Pull up while rocking the switch out of the switch mounting bracket.
- The next one out on the driver side may require that you remove the Hood Slam Bumper located near the driver side hood latch and headlamp. Mark the threads of the bumper to determine the replacement height. Rotate the slam bumper counterclockwise and remove it from the hood latch.
- The 2 outermost fascia panel retainers are a ****** to remove. There is one located just below each headlamp. This is a picture of the outermost driver side retainer.
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- The outermost retainers can be accessed by pulling the end of the fascia away from the wheel well.
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- The panel clip pliers can be maneuvered into the opening. You have to balance how much you feel comfortable pulling on the fascia (as it will be binding) with how much space you need to get the retainer removed. You only need to get the head of the retainer removed/broken off. The fascia can be lifted over any remaining retainer stump. You can use any tool of your choosing to get these out. A sharp tool may be used to cut the tops off the retainers.
Disconnect the side marker lamp and fog lamp wiring harnesses on each side. You may want to mark each harness so that they don’t get crossed during the installation (although this can be checked/tested by turning on the lights during the installation process). Disconnecting these harnesses can be completed at the very beginning by accessing the wiring harnesses through the wheel well rubber plugs (4” in diameter) located on the front most side of each front wheel well.
You must be registered for see images
There will probably be some debris that falls out and is caught in and around all of the close out panels.
I want to thank Dave6666 for all of his direction and help when I first attempted this early last year.
Done.
