PROJECT: "******** ACR-700R" Has Begun

345s-bspinnin

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The 02 **** on the 90 deg. "test pipe" can be used for the secondary 02 sensor or a wideband. A lot of folks use spark plug non-foulers to mitigate a CEL when a catalytic converter isn't present. My GENIII ARH have an identical setup.
 

2002_red_gts

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FastGuy68, I love your build! Your car looks great and i cant wait to see the numbers she puts down! I own a Gen 2 but still enjoy reading about your build!
 

345s-bspinnin

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I can't wait to see how much weight I will be taking off as the stock exhaust is HEAVY!!

Attaining significant weight reduction by replacing OEM Headers/Cats with aftermarket is an old wives' tale.

My GEN III OEM Headers and cats came in at 22.6 lbs, and 20.4 lbs for the 1 3/4" ARH with 3" collector and test pipe. I don't consider that 2 lbs difference to be significant. Let us know if the cat back yields any significant weight loss.

By the way, very nice build you got going. Very anxious to see if you hit your 620whp. :eater:
 

Viperless

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The 02 **** on the 90 deg. "test pipe" can be used for the secondary 02 sensor or a wideband. A lot of folks use spark plug non-foulers to mitigate a CEL when a catalytic converter isn't present. My GENIII ARH have an identical setup.

100% correct! ;)

Interesting. I was confused by the 45 degree angle of the fitting. Looked more like a fitting for a crankcase evac system.
 

Toma

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Curious what she put down stock on the Mustang Dyno...(providing they did not fudge the set-up parameters to make it read 'like a dynojet').

Thanks!
 

Toma

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one bad thing about the dei wrap is it holds moisture. and it will get hard and flake apart very quickly. we quit using the stuff and just went to thermal coatings (jet hot etc)
You guys try running their regular wrap, and then SOAKING it with the paint? Seals it up, keeps the wrap from accumulating water, oil etc. And seems to last much longer.
 

X-Metal

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You guys try running their regular wrap, and then SOAKING it with the paint? Seals it up, keeps the wrap from accumulating water, oil etc. And seems to last much longer.
yes, i tried that too. then it really looks jerry-rigged. its just too shade tree/back yard mechanic looking for me.
i have used their clamp on-sewn heat sheilds. they are 6" x 24" rectangles and they are sewn insulator with a heat reflective backing. uses stainless hose clamps to attach around the pipe. that stuff is nice. i use it to heat sheild my o2 sensor wiring etc. easy to install and looks good
 
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FastGuy68

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Curious what she put down stock on the Mustang Dyno...(providing they did not fudge the set-up parameters to make it read 'like a dynojet').

Thanks!

The Mustang Dyno we used for the "baseline" showed 490 h.p. @ 6000 rpm. This is 10 h.p. more than other Gen-4 cars I have seen. There is a 2008 car that Woodhouse ran that looks exactly like my sheet except it's about 9 h.p. less on the DragTimes website. To say the Mustang is stingy is an understatement!! You would need to add aprox. 12% to get a normal Dynojet number for the same cars!!:crazy2: Another problem we ran into on the Mustang was it "shut-down" @ 150 mph.:rolleyes:

I will be using a Dynojet AND the Mustang once I have it back together to see what we gained.
 
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FastGuy68

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You guys try running their regular wrap, and then SOAKING it with the paint? Seals it up, keeps the wrap from accumulating water, oil etc. And seems to last much longer.

I'm sorry but after my experiance (posted here) I'll be ceramic coating everything from now on!!:D
 
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FastGuy68

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Finally a shot of my -12AN Breather Set-up.......including the "Y"! Notice the sweet billet aluminum bracket for the catch tank. ;)

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white out

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Great build!

Since the coater is local, you could hit the intake manifold with thermal coating. It would help lower intake temps.

Phenolic spacers between the intake manifold and heads would also help keep intake temps down.

Shooting for 620 RWHP but we'll see what happens. I'm going to be trying some better spark plugs, running 100 oct. unleaded Sunoco Race Gas etc. to get every last drop out of it.
You're in the midwest. Pick up a bigger pump and some bigger fuel injectors and go with e85. Get the power of 100 octane with the price of 87 octane.

Thermal coatings are the way to go.....
+1

Nick
 
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FastGuy68

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Five little pistons all in a row.:smirk: This is a pic after I cleaned the pistons off with 80 grit sand paper.......:lmao: just kidding!!:nono::nono:

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FastGuy68

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Great build!

Since the coater is local, you could hit the intake manifold with thermal coating. It would help lower intake temps.

Phenolic spacers between the intake manifold and heads would also help keep intake temps down.


You're in the midwest. Pick up a bigger pump and some bigger fuel injectors and go with e85. Get the power of 100 octane with the price of 87 octane.
+1
Nick

Thanks, and one of your suggestions is in the works for next winter. ;)
 
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FastGuy68

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....
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Just a little reminder of what the two black fittings on the valve covers look like from the "inside". This view would be looking from the top showing the 3 ported sides of the nut that works to restrict the oil but allows the air to move at a -12AN flow rate.

If your wondering why -12AN for the size, well two of the biggest names in oiling systems MOROSO & PETERSEN both reccomend "NO LESS THAN -12AN for crankcase venting".
 

Phun70

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Well, I was going to do the motor mounts but after seeing there are some questions about them and the very sensitive knock sensors I am going to hold off for now. Since I plan on pulling the motor next winter to beef up the bottom end I'll have another chance to install them. I will be doing the trans mount now though.



Hey man, When are we going to get together?? After the rain of course. Let me know. Mark "Throttle" Hawks
 

white out

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Five little pistons all in a row.:smirk: This is a pic after I cleaned the pistons off with 80 grit sand paper.......:lmao: just kidding!!:nono::nono:

:lmao:

If you decide on Phenolic spacers, there is a small company near you, Grimmspeed, who can make them for you. They are cheap and have proven their gains & strength in the Subaru community.

Nick
 

BAD BOYZZ GARAGE

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FastGuy68,

Here's some V10 Easter color for your Snake that we just finished up and headed your way Bad Boyzz Garage Style!! :D


P.S. I have a nice little Easter present for you that I found in my tool box today "a new set of Gen 4 light weight chromoly push rods". This will increase the stability of your Snakes valve train during those WOT runs at this years Track Events.:2tu:




BBG 700R Intake Runners




BBG 700R Intake Runners




BBG 700R Intake Runners




BBG 700R Exhaust Ports

BBG1299.JPG



BBG 700R Exhaust Ports




BBG 700R Exhaust Ports




BBG Viper Sportsman Competition Clutch



BAD BOYZZ GARAGE, INC.
Toddy Gomez - President

=DISTRIBUTORS OF POWER=:usa:
 
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JAY

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Love this project, thanx for keeping us posted ! Any flow numbers compared to stock,
on these heads ? :) :2tu:
 

X-Metal

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Just a little reminder of what the two black fittings on the valve covers look like from the "inside". This view would be looking from the top showing the 3 ported sides of the nut that works to restrict the oil but allows the air to move at a -12AN flow rate.

If your wondering why -12AN for the size, well two of the biggest names in oiling systems MOROSO & PETERSEN both reccomend "NO LESS THAN -12AN for crankcase venting".
where did you find this fitting? i am needing some for a different project i am working on for one of my motorcycles
 

FEDBYVORTECH

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Art 138

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Just a little reminder of what the two black fittings on the valve covers look like from the "inside". This view would be looking from the top showing the 3 ported sides of the nut that works to restrict the oil but allows the air to move at a -12AN flow rate.

If your wondering why -12AN for the size, well two of the biggest names in oiling systems MOROSO & PETERSEN both reccomend "NO LESS THAN -12AN for crankcase venting".

The ACR-X has the valve cover AN fittings on the upper middle portiion of said covers; was there any specific reason you chose to place the two black fittings near the front outer end of the covers?????
 
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FastGuy68

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The ACR-X has the valve cover AN fittings on the upper middle portiion of said covers; was there any specific reason you chose to place the two black fittings near the front outer end of the covers?????

Well, to be honest there were a few things that helped make the decision for that location. The most important thing was I wanted the venting ports to be as high above the splash shields as possible without any flow resrtictions. Obviously the farther you can keep the oil away from a vent hole the better. My second thing to consider was where to place it front to back. After much thought I decided that there would almost always be more time on the gas than on the brakes therefore the oil would tend to be more toward the center & rear portion of the valve covers. Lastly, because of the -12AN size there was only a few other places the vent fittings could be placed. I feel confident that this system will work better than the ACR-X setup in that there will be much more air flow and much less oil pushed out into the catch tank. Once I have tested it I will report back in this thread how it does.
 
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FastGuy68

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Here is yet another "new" item I have being made up for the Gen 4 Vipers. Not that I think there is anything wrong with the stock spark plug wires I do think these new ones are the best money can buy. Toddy @ BBG is possibly going to have these available through him directly. They are made by Taylor/Vertex who I consider to be the best of the best in conductor performance and the Thundervolt 50 (10.4mm) wire is their best. :D:usa:
Direct from their site......
  • THUNDERVOLT®50 is the ABSOLUTE best .409 inch, 10.4mm diameter high tech, high performance ignition wire available. IROC DYNO-Tested and Track Proven, achieving 5 HP and 7 lbs. torque better than the competition.
  • 40 Ohm/ft Ferrite Spiral-Wound coated core blend of exclusive copper/nickel alloy bonded by a conductive acrylic cover. Our Ferrite Spiral-Wound low resistance core provides optimum RFI and EMI suppression and is compatible with use on most electronic ignition systems and components.
  • Features a tightly woven heat treated fiberglass braid eliminating the need for additional sleeving.
  • Exclusive three layer 100% ZIMPLEX® silicone outer jacket provides additional heat and abrasion protection up to 600 degrees Fahrenheit and 102,000 volts dielectric strength, a must for the extreme conditions of open wheel racing and under hood temperatures.
  • Available in Black with Gold lettering with color coordinated low profile 100% silicone PROBOOTS® featuring vibration proof Stainless Steel double spring locking spark plug terminals.

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