CEL on my 08, and ABS light . any ideas?

X-Metal

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i have a weird Cel that popped up on my '08, and it put it into limp home mode. hopefully Mark J or Grail will chime in,

its got the mopar ecu, headers, (catch can for valve covers, so oil doesnt get into intake) no cats,ported intake and K&N smooth tubes kit, and the rain defelctor is removed.

. (i do have a stereo with a 280amp alternator so i need to check that too--maybe alternator spiked? but the main fuse to protect system i put on didnt blow..so i dont think thats it.)

car has been sitting for at least month or 2 with a battery tender on it. one day my wife and i got a free evening so we took out the car and did dinner and shopping.

right off the bat when i get in, fire it up the ABS light comes on........ok must be a fluke from sitting. no blown fuses yet it stays on all night and its still there now.....
we take off car is runnning GREAT, but the ABS light never goes away. but i figure ill hook scan tool up later and figure it out. we continue on with our evening


so we cross the border into mexico......
towards the end of the night we get a late model blown mustang doing the "wanna run em?" throttle up me.
:poke::poke:i was like ok dude...,my car is running great tonight and my wife is super cool, so why not.
we do a couple of short roll ons until we are able to get up on the bypass. i gotta give it to the mustang, its a strong car because without downshifting from 3rd at around 40 he pulls hard and i can hear his blowoff valves when he lifts. i can tell his car is geared for drag cause he does come out of the hole hard.:eater:

even with my wife and 350lbs of stereo im not too worried. we roll onto the road leading to the bypass and we finally are able to roll on from about 30mph, my car fries thru second, steady burn into third and i pull him about 10 cars up to 120.
we get onto the bypass and same thing except this time we hammer down and i check out and keep pulling away up to 140 and i let off. no contest.
we do a few more stabs and then i get the cel, and the lightening bolt flashing and boom goes into limp home mode.
arrrrrrrrrrggggggggg.:omg:

now the mustang guy wants more run (how many more ass whooping does this guy need before he gets the point)

but i cant pull over 2500rpm so im done for the night.
must have got some mustang ass cought in the snakes digestive track.....??;):rolaugh:

all the gauges are ok, battery voltage is rock steady around 14v
get home , hook up scanner and i get : TAC low air flow ????

never saw that one before but i thought i read some where that K&N's and cause some Cel's?
any ideas? cleared the code and now she revs up now. i still have the ABS light so that issue still lingers.
 
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01sapphirebob

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Since you have the MOPAR PCM I would be interested to see what this is all about. The PCM is suppose to not be so sensitive.
 

bluesrt

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Throttle air control..reset it. .maybe because you were on it hard.
 

bmw2nv2000

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I think the gen 4's are sensitive when it comes to the air intake side of things especially with two electronic TB's. I wouldnt worry about it till it becomes consistant.
 

redtanrt10

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Mark J/Dan Cragin are the experts but here's my $0.02. ABS light comes on after dyno run or if the car sits out and gets wet under the hood. But in both cases nornally shuts off in a few minutes.

Removing Rain Baffel will cause a CEL even with the Mopar ECU.

Find out why you went into limp mode. (Many times it will clear if you shut the car off for 5 minutes then restart). Use a scan tool or turn the key in the on postion 3 times to find the code(s). With the Mopar ECU if you hit the rev limiter it can (will) put you in limp mode.
 

Steve-Indy

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Maybe it was the cool, dense air near the "Rio Grande" :)

Seriously, what
were the codes that you found? Misfires? Cat? And, Gen IV's that sit around do throw CEL's occasionally.

What are the first two
digits of the serial number (second row is SN...first row is part number) on
your (presumably stock) fuel injectors? If the digits are "72" that can be a
known problem.

I have had an airbag light illuminate...no codes...went away. If yours persists,
you might want to check the plugs on the OCM module under
the seat...unplug & replug connector to see if airbag light light goes off.
If that doesn't change anything, I would throw a wiTECH or StarSCAN on it and
take a look at the Occupant Classification Module (OCM). See a hint from 2009 Manual below:

[h=2]AIRBAG SYSTEM[/h]
1.With the battery negative cable disconnected, connect
the scan tool to the Data Link Connector.

2.Turn the ignition key to the ON position. Exit vehicle
with the scan tool.

3.After checking that no one is inside the vehicle,
connect the battery negative cable.

4.Read and record the ACTIVE Diagnostic Trouble
Code (DTC) data.

5.Read and record any STORED
DTC's.

6.Refer to the proper Body Diagnostic Procedures manual
if any DTC's are found in Step
#4
and Step
#5
.

7.If the airbag warning lamp either fails to light, or
goes ON and stays ON, there is a system malfunction. To test the airbag warning
lamp (bulb) operation in the cluster, refer to Electrical, Instrument Cluster,
Diagnosis and Testing - Instrument Cluster. Refer to the proper Body Diagnostic
Procedures manual for any other system problems.
 
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X-Metal

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thanks Steve, ill try that tomorrow. unfortunalty i didnt write down the codes, i was in a parking lot with my scan tool and i just cleared the code so i could get out of limp mode.
i dont see how what/how i drove last night would be any different in an ACR on a race track? ive got the same controller and if this just happens sometimes how can anyone race one for any length of time without having this happen? man, i really miss the JTEC ecu. maybe its time to put on a Pectel or motec and get the heck away from this stock setup if its going to freak out.
 
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