New issue with Paxton on Gen3

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Tankster

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New issue(on my car) just got everything going, first run with Paxton installed, if I rev it up to the cut off point, to around 6k rpm, car shuts down, so I have to get in the gear and start it while on the move, an even that takes a few seconds and lots of popping. If I change gears perfectly everything is alright. Anyone has any idea what's going on?
 

wikkid

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You gotta get that thing tuned. Reving to 6k out of the box is asking for trouble
 

Paul Hawker

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While Paxton kits are regarded as bolt on by many people, the experienced tuners that have installed lots of them have developed little tricks and techniques to make them uber reliable and great producers of power.

If you just go it alone, there may be a learning curve that you will need to endure.

Simple things like needing to change brackets so your horn is not muffled, to a bit of dyno time to make sure the air/fuel ratio's are correct, the timeing is being corrected, and the accessory fuel pumps are coming on at the right times with proper fuel flow enhancement.

What you are describing is something unusual. Not common for Paxton installs.
 

Nine Ball

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Sounds like you need a custom tune, if the engine is stalling out on you. Quit hitting the rpm limiter on boost.
 
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Tankster

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Ok so I was out again, trying to figure it out. At first everything was a ok! It seem like when it take cold air in all is ok, along the way after air going in gets hotter, it starts again. The temperature was about 60 cel. going in, if its colder it fine. I have a feeling that it might be a MAP sensor.
 
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Tankster

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Guys it's was a bolt on kit from Paxton, there was nothing else to be done with a charger itself! So I don't think there should be any serious problem! Checked all the mistakes with the diagnostics and it only shows " o2 sensors overheating" the second ones! And no check engine light yet!
 

Paul Hawker

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Guess the point for the other posts, is that in any car with boost or NOS it is very ******* the engine to rev to the fuel cut off where the engine goes from maximum boost to a no fuel condition.
Depending on how it is wired, the main fuel pump could be shut down, while the aux pumps are still pumping. The split second unit will be retarding the ignition timeing, and it could get interesting (and expensive) inside the engine : >(
 

martyb

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Do you have an a/f gauge in the car? Have you pulled the plugs and read them? My opinion is you are playing with fire. Ensure your timing and air/fuel are in line at a minimum. These things aren't the cause of your problem, but if they are wrong you may be replacing your engine.
 

speedracervr4

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Do you have an a/f gauge in the car? Have you pulled the plugs and read them? My opinion is you are playing with fire. Ensure your timing and air/fuel are in line at a minimum. These things aren't the cause of your problem, but if they are wrong you may be replacing your engine.

^^^This. At a minimum, I would be data logging the A/F. Each engine/intake/fuel system is different and may not run the same with a "bolt on kit" tune.
 

VIPER R

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7 years with the Paxton, I installed it and drove it, never tuned other than stock from Paxton. I'm not saying tuning isn't a good idea, just not a necessity.
 
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Get it on the dyno and check everything before you drive it. We did almost 300 of these installs over the years and not one left without a dyno to verify what was going on before it left regardless of a new car or used. Most used cars got a pre install dyno also to verify there were no existing issues first.

There are a couple disc that come with the kit and each car seemed to require a different one, it is just variations from system to system and the exhaust that is on the car. If you are getting high temps after cats you could be lean enough on the top end that you are damaging them and soon they could totally fail causing more problems for you. Stop driving and get to the dyno, we have even seen the second booster pump not coming on line, that alone can cost you an engine.
 
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First off, Not brag, but I sure can recognize when the engine is dying.I installed this Paxton by myself, as well as an exhaust system. Second: I live in the post war city where there's one and only viper period, although I can find dyne somewhere in Russia where I have to travel over 1200 miles! So it is a bit of a problem. This was an ambitious project I started a while ago, I do have a good understanding of this cars mechanics at that. I was hopping that my issue would be something that had happened previously to one or two owners, but oh well. Seems like most people on this forum bought theirs to just drive em on the week ends and the speed limits! Back the problem, I going to get the log file and see what A/F shows, so that might clear something out. Looks like you r one of the few who knows what they r talking about!
 
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Did not mean any disrespect, I also did not know there were exhaust changes. If there are headers there will definitely be lean outs, if just the cat back you should be fine within the adjustments available through FMU disk changes. Another thing to look at is the position of the diaphragm in the FMU, I have seen them assembled wrong and or the center platform for the spring off set. I would just take a look at that while you are in there. Good luck, I hope it is something simple for you, 1200 miles to a dyno is a long way!


First off, Not brag, but I sure can recognize when the engine is dying.I installed this Paxton by myself, as well as an exhaust system. Second: I live in the post war city where there's one and only viper period, although I can find dyne somewhere in Russia where I have to travel over 1200 miles! So it is a bit of a problem. This was an ambitious project I started a while ago, I do have a good understanding of this cars mechanics at that. I was hopping that my issue would be something that had happened previously to one or two owners, but oh well. Seems like most people on this forum bought theirs to just drive em on the week ends and the speed limits! Back the problem, I going to get the log file and see what A/F shows, so that might clear something out. Looks like you r one of the few who knows what they r talking about!
 
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Tankster

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I did install full Belanger exhaust system, maybe that has something to do with it, although I got both together from one seller as a kit for my spec. Also there was no CD with Paxton kit.
 
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Yes that is the problem as far as getting too lean up top, the stock Paxton Split second programming (all that comes with the kit) will not generally compensate that much, you will probably need a custom tune from someone. If you just put in a richer disk then you will be very rich down in the lower boost causing other issues.


I did install full Belanger exhaust system, maybe that has something to do with it, although I got both together from one seller as a kit for my spec. Also there was no CD with Paxton kit.
 

ViperGeorge

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Listen to Mark. I put high flow cats on my Paxton 06. Had it dynoed before and after. Didn't even have headers. After the high flows A/F got into the 12s, dyno guy said "that's good". It wasn't, engine blew later, rods through block, not good. Car likes mid to high 11s in A/F.

Get a fuel pressure gauge and left/right wide band O2s to find out what is going on. As Mark said could be one of the Paxton auxillary pumps is not coming on. After my engine was rebuilt and PCM tuned by Dan Cragin car ran great. Until the Split Second box failed. That was hard to diagnose let me tell you. Doug Levin can also be a great help in diagnosing a Paxton problem. Call him or Dan or Mark. Doug does some upgrades to a stock paxton. Different belt tensioner, improved o-ring seals on bypass, etc.
 
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