Will change the head gaskets...
- Thread starter CS14
- Start date
Hello, CS14 !!
I have had this done on our 95 R/T 10 and 96 R/T 10 by experienced Viper Techs...as well as having assisted several VCA members in accomplishing this same job.
In MY opinion, the key to success is ordering the correct parts at the same time from the same source.
Since I do not have a complete list of items with the CORRECT part numbers handy as of this writing, I would strongly recommend that you buy the complete package for this job from a person who actively installs said parts. This narrows the field considerably !!
I would recommend a phone call to either Chuck Tator ( Tator's Garage) or Dan Lesser (Viper Specialty) to discuss your plans and needs. When one of these fine gentlemen choose, pack, and ship the necessary parts...your job will is more likely to go smoothly and have a much higher chance of success since they have tremendous experience and MANY useful tips to pass along.
While doing this job you should consider changing both the Power Steering bracket and the pulley (noting that your 96 "Gen I.5" has a plastic pulley).
I would also note that the new oil pan gaskets and much better...and that SOME may also change the timing chain cover gasket at this time as a FEW Gen I motors have suffered failures in this area netting an oil pan full of coolant.
Others may agree/disagree.
Best of luck !
I have had this done on our 95 R/T 10 and 96 R/T 10 by experienced Viper Techs...as well as having assisted several VCA members in accomplishing this same job.
In MY opinion, the key to success is ordering the correct parts at the same time from the same source.
Since I do not have a complete list of items with the CORRECT part numbers handy as of this writing, I would strongly recommend that you buy the complete package for this job from a person who actively installs said parts. This narrows the field considerably !!
I would recommend a phone call to either Chuck Tator ( Tator's Garage) or Dan Lesser (Viper Specialty) to discuss your plans and needs. When one of these fine gentlemen choose, pack, and ship the necessary parts...your job will is more likely to go smoothly and have a much higher chance of success since they have tremendous experience and MANY useful tips to pass along.
While doing this job you should consider changing both the Power Steering bracket and the pulley (noting that your 96 "Gen I.5" has a plastic pulley).
I would also note that the new oil pan gaskets and much better...and that SOME may also change the timing chain cover gasket at this time as a FEW Gen I motors have suffered failures in this area netting an oil pan full of coolant.
Others may agree/disagree.
Best of luck !
Darth Menace
Enthusiast
I don't know about the other gaskets, but change the timing cover gasket for sure...it's a pain in the ass to replace when it goes. When doing that you had might as well do the main seal as well.
ohio_viper
Viper Owner
Steve is the man, take heed of his advice. Just did this job a month ago with my brother and would not have been nearly as smooth without Steve's help. I did the TC Cover gasket as it was leaking oil (Darth is dead on the money), and did the head gaskets as the add on. Follow the coolant system burping procedure when you fill everything back up too. Stretch helped my through this, its not bad just needs the attention it deserves. Also, get the SRT oil filters, and do the plugs/wires at the same time. Do the PS Pump bracket as the OEM is pretty lame.
Good luck!
Good luck!
Fatboy 18
Enthusiast
And the crank pin kit 
Darth Menace
Enthusiast
Might as well get head work done while your in there
Fatboy 18
Enthusiast
New Headers?
NI-KA
Enthusiast
Everyone is happy to help you spend YOUR money !
Who needs a wife and kids when you have fellow VCA members to help.
Who needs a wife and kids when you have fellow VCA members to help.
Darth Menace
Enthusiast
I have a wife and kids, that's why the VCA can't help me spend my money
We stock all gaskets for this job, and can make recommendations to get you back on the road in top condition. We brought them to market back in 2008 to compete with Mopar's option, and have sold nearly 500 pairs of these gaskets, supplying nearly every major vendor. We also brought the AFM gaskets to market, to completely rid the Gen-1 and 2 cars of the Paper gaskets, and utilize a foam-clad aluminum design in their place with more benefits than I care to list and zero downside. Lastly, the MLS Gen-1 Exhaust Gaskets were brought out at the same time to eliminate the composite materials which can deteriorate and blow out over time.
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RT/ED
Enthusiast
Change the thermostat to 180 or 185 degree. Good time to replace the valve seals on the heads too. Best bet is Chuck Tator "Tators Gararage" for parts and VERY helpful advise from "the expert".
99 R/T 10
Enthusiast
PM or email Daniel at Viper Specialty. He will fix ya up!
klamathpro
Viper Owner
Call one of the venders like Chuck or Dan. Change the thermostat, but don't bother with the timing cover as it's a whole other operation that doesn't require the removal of any of the parts needed to do a head gasket change. You are technically a GEN1 engine so you don't have the GEN timing cover gasket issue.
jdeft1
Enthusiast
If you intend to do it yourself..... CHEERS! It's an easy job. The viper engine is a tinker toy. Here's what you need: Dan's MLS head gaskets (for sure). You also need new intake and exhaust gaskets. Also, get new t-stat crossover gaskets. Want a new t-stat? go with a 180. It's also a good time to swap hoses to silicon, .......
DON'T try to drain the radiator by twisting out the old drain plug!!! Just pull a hose!
If you were close, I'd help. The dealers **** you for this job.....
-Cheers!
DON'T try to drain the radiator by twisting out the old drain plug!!! Just pull a hose!
If you were close, I'd help. The dealers **** you for this job.....
-Cheers!
scottmarston
Viper Owner
Depending on when it was last done, you may as well change your plugs and plug wires while you have somewhat good access to the front of the motor...your coil packs are up there and can be knuckle breakers. Don't forget to draw a chalk outline around hood hinges before you take off the hood, or you may be fussing with trying to get your hood back on straight during the assembly. Lastly, I would swap out your fuel filter…but, be careful about this one. When you put the new one on BE SURE to get it back on there correctly and snug or you’ll be on the side of the freeway with a jack and rocks for chalks reconnecting it with your fingers crossed. Everything that was listed above is also a good idea. If I were to do it again, I would go with a 185F thermostat...my heater is a little cold with the 180F.
klamathpro
Viper Owner
If you only take out the four bolts holding the hood to the brackets, there is no aligning at all as there is no play with those bolt holes. On a GEN1 setup, 180F stat is better and heater won't ever be an issue. I did a 170F stat and I have more heat than I know what to do with. GEN2's have a better setup and don't need as cold of a stat.
speedracervr4
Enthusiast
I would look at ordering a thread chaser (not tap) for the head bolt threads...1/2"-13 ARP. I had to wait about two weeks for it to come in.
Nope, this is a Gen-1, they are 9/16-12 on the size.
Generally the threads do not need to be chased unless they "feel funny" on the way out, they can be cleaned up with just a plastic [or stainless if really messy] bore brush of the right size and some brake cleaner/air pressure as long as they come out smooth. The big thing to pay attention to is the bolt threads. File any nicks, and remove any stuck material in the threads.
speedracervr4
Enthusiast
My bad, didn't take note of the year. I know when I did mine the chaser cleaned out quite a bit of gunk from the threads. Not gonna argue with a guy that builds these engines for a living though.
Dont get me wrong- it completely depends on what you see when it comes apart. If the bolts are quite nasty, you will surely find some wonderful things in there. Either way, a stainless brush will get all of that out. The chaser is really only needed when you have a thread that galled a bit, which you will usually feel and see on the threads. But if you have a chaser handy anyway, no harm in it.
