Fuel Pump DIY?

Photo pro · Apr 23, 2013

I sent my 1996 RT-10 into the dealer because it is having trouble starting. It will start but it takes 2-3 trys, then runs perfectly. They just called and told me it needed a new fuel pump. They said that fuel pressure is dropping off to nothing after I turn the car off. They gave me the estimate. I was expecting maybe a few hundred but it was $2400. After I came to, I declined the repair.

Are there any threads or videos out there that might help me do this myself? Exactly where is the fuel pump located on a 1996 RT-10?

daveg · Apr 23, 2013

Photo pro said:
I sent my 1996 RT-10 into the dealer because it is having trouble starting. It will start but it takes 2-3 trys, then runs perfectly. They just called and told me it needed a new fuel pump. They said that fuel pressure is dropping off to nothing after I turn the car off. They gave me the estimate. I was expecting maybe a few hundred but it was $2400. After I came to, I declined the repair.

Are there any threads or videos out there that might help me do this myself? Exactly where is the fuel pump located on a 1996 RT-10?

How old is the Fuel Filter???

lxadeuce · Apr 23, 2013

i believe on the 96 RT10 you have to cut the floor of the trunk out. the replacement fuel assembly is around $900. you then get a replacement truck floor and rivet back in place.

I'm not 100% certain on this since i have a 96 GTS, but i do remember seeing something about it when i was researching mine and i came to the conclusion i was glad i had a gts. however, if there is some good news, it's that you can find a used fuel assembly for around $100-$200 if you look around. there are a couple of different variations so you might want to pull yours first so you can make sure you get the correct replacement. the 96rt10 this might not be a problem but i know i bought a GTS fuel assembly and it was not the same as what came out. I had to modify to make it work. Mine ended up being only the pressure regulator that was bad so some fuel was bypassing back into the tank. imagine a "Y" in the line and fuel goes into the bottom, one side goes to the engine, and one back to the tank unrestricted. that is what mine was doing and my fuel pressure would drop to about 18psi at full throttle, but was 52 at idle.

MoparMap · Apr 23, 2013

Ouch, I wouldn't think the factory would have made something like a fuel pump a more permanent installation like that, but then again the early cars were really piecemeal to begin with. I wonder if you could drop the whole tank to keep from cutting out the floor?

eucharistos · Apr 23, 2013

contact AndyMac he may be helpful (if 96 rt= 95 rt)

Ron · Apr 23, 2013

A cheaper & easier fix? http://bit.ly/YMxtv7

lxadeuce · Apr 24, 2013

Ron said:
A cheaper & easier fix? http://bit.ly/YMxtv7

I've done that fix. it did help with the starting issue but it will not help with losing fuel pressure at higher RPM's.

Jack B · Apr 24, 2013

That is a fairly common issue. On the RT10 you have to pull the tank..There is a bad check valve. Tom the oil expert had a write-up/fix that did not require getting into the tank.

SEASNAKE · Apr 24, 2013

It is a pretty common problem. If its just with starting then it most probably is the check valve. And that is going to be the only real issue. You can turn the key to the on position and let it sit there for a couple of seconds to charge the lines when the fuel pump turn on and it will start right up. I had one go out in both my 94 and 01. My poor memory is that the tank didn't have to be dropped, but you did have to drill out rivits in the trunk area to get the access panel out. Breaking the fuel connections to the filter can be a real PIA.

ViperTony · Apr 24, 2013

Tom created a DIY on installing a primer timer which solves the check-valve problem without having to remove the pump. It's in the Illustrated Upgrade's section.

NSviper · Apr 24, 2013

I had the same problem a few years back, so I purchased a delay timer to install myself. Anyway I had some other issues. So I took it down to Chuck Tator's, to get them fixed. While it was there he replaced the fuel pump. So I have a delay timer if you want to go that route. Just PM me your address, and I'll send it off.

99 R/T 10 · Apr 24, 2013

$2400 is about right. Tough job on a RT/10

Photo pro · Apr 24, 2013

I love this board. You guys are coming through. I really appreciate your help. My daughter is getting married next year and I didn't want any extra expenses.

Photo pro · Nov 16, 2013

What about running a bottle or two of Sea Foam gas treatment through? Is it possible that it might loosen the stuck check valve?

CS14 · Nov 24, 2013

About the jobb to access the tank, its the front wall in the trunk, not the floor, which must be removed. Drill the plastic rivets out and bend it loose (their are some sealant between). Lift up the car, take both rear wheels off to access the bolts that secure the tank, loos the filler neck and pull the tank out via the trunk to reach the fuel pump abowe the tank. Take it easy with the connections.

Has any one recommendation where to buy the fuel pump? (Both stock or replacement is fine)

Chuck 98 RT/10 · Dec 4, 2013

After removing the access panel there is plenty of fiberglass that can be ground away to make for easier access. Just don't grind away more than the access panel will cover.

CS14 · Jan 26, 2014

Question: Has any one recommendation where to buy the fuel pump? (Both stock or replacement is fine) (RT/10, -96)

Coloviper · Jan 26, 2014

My 96 RT is doing the exact same thing. Only does it if cold or sitting for longer than 1.5 hrs. I have to turn key on, let the fuel pump pressure up and then turn off. After repeating 3 times, it starts up. Fine after that!

I am really hoping it is not my fuel pump. If I have to do something as stupid as the procedure explained in this thread for replacing along with a $2k bill, this with be my second and last Viper I will ever own. Absolute stupidest F$&king thing. I would have never bought this RT had I known there was a fix that required this level of crap.

I just know my car has this issue. Had it before I bought it but thought it would be an easy fix.

To say I am ********** right now is an understatement. F$&king Fisher Price crap! Chock it up there with the Gen III window regulators. Son of a............

Matt M PA · Jan 28, 2014

If the car sits...then is slow to start...it's the check valve (for want of a better word) that maintains pressure when the car isn't running. Follow the link Ron lists above to build a primer-timer. I did one from my '96...long cranking problem fixed. Inexpensive and easy...thanks to Tom for that one. And yes...to replace the fuel pump is a labor intensive job...and needs to be done as described above. Remove the rivets in the trunk, etc....

AZTVR · Jan 29, 2014

Matt M said:
Follow the link Ron lists above to build a primer-timer.

and just in case that shortcut doesn't last forever, here is a direct link to the referenced thread for future use:
I have a DIY fix for hard starting Vipers (fuel pump check valve)

Dan Cragin · Jan 29, 2014

Hi Everyone,
With no Gen 1 fuel pump modules, fuel regulators and sending units available. Would anyone be interested in a group buy of an aftermarket module that would not only be more reliable but would support much more power?

CS14 · Feb 16, 2014

Dan Cragin said:
Hi Everyone,
With no Gen 1 fuel pump modules, fuel regulators and sending units available. Would anyone be interested in a group buy of an aftermarket module that would not only be more reliable but would support much more power?

Absolutely, even if it works today, it is not certain it will continue to work. I don't think there are needs for a pump that can handle much more power, there are several available alternatives on the market for that needs.

To bring up the number of interested for a group order, I think its better to go for a pure replacement of the standard pump.

Matt M PA · Feb 16, 2014

I too would be interested in a replacement pump. I do agree with CS14...it could be a standard replacement...

NI-KA · Feb 16, 2014

Might as well set it up for future upgrades and put in a higher capacity pump.

Dan Cragin · Feb 17, 2014

The pump module, regulator and sending unit are both not available. You can get just a replacement pump, but 90% of the time the regulator or sending unit are the issue. I will look into make making a new module with everything, including the surge tank and allow it to support much more hp if needed.

mrbob · Feb 18, 2014

mrbob here , look on ebay. i had an issue that my 1994 , car would only show 50 pounds pressure . the pump is the same as a porsche. they are under $150 . disasemble the canister and replace the pump. i did mine not to bad . while you are there replace the filter . need any info just pm me .

Photo pro · Aug 11, 2014

Hey Tom,
I am looking at adding your primer timer to my 96 RT10. I see some wiring instructions for various GTS models. Do you have the specific wiring instructions for the 96 RT10? (Wire colors).

Also, I am understanding that after I install this, I simply need to turn the key on for a few seconds, then turn further to start. You timer keeps the primer running longer. Is that correct?http://forums.viperclub.org/threads...nd-cure-your-Viper-Fuel-Pump-Starting-Problem

Matt M PA · Aug 12, 2014

Photopro...the wiring instructions are on that link...the same I used for my '96 RT

Luisv · Aug 16, 2014

If you need to pull the tank I did t recently on my GTS. It is, essentially, the same process except that you already have the panel in the RT to remove. In the GTS I have to cut the access out. Regardless, I did a complete write up including plenty of photos. I even give you some tips to help you out with pulling the bolts holding the tank in place. Your tank is slightly different than the tank in the '02 GTS but, in general, it should be the same process.

PM me for the link. I did not post the writeup here as I don't have access to the DIY anymore and I refuse to put up a thread on a fix that later I will not be permitted to access....

You must be registered for see images attach

Photo pro · Aug 18, 2014

Matt M said:
Photopro...the wiring instructions are on that link...the same I used for my '96 RT

This is what I am looking at - (I feel stupid but I don't see the specific colors for the 96 RT-10)

The installation consists of locating three wires:
1. Power supplied with key-on (zero volts when key-off, 12V when key-on)
a. In a Gen 1, connect red wire to A21 14DB (dark blue)
b. In a Gen 2, connect red wire to F12 18 DB/GY (dark blue/gray stripe)
2. Ground by PCM to complete the circuit (infinite ohms to ground when key-off, cycles to no resistance to ground when key-on.)
a. In a ’96 GTS, connect green wire to K51 20 DB/YL* (dark blue/yellow stripe)
b. In a ’97-99 GTS, connect green to K31 20 BR/VT (brown/violet stripe)
c. In a ’97-99 RT, connect green to K31 20 BR (brown)
3. Any solid black wire ground for the taillights
a. Connect to black wire
b. In a ’97-99 GTS, can use pin 7 ground of rear window defogger relay

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