How to bleed the clutch?

Bowtie · Jul 4, 2016

Hello Guys,

Problem is at I cant get gear in reverse any more. It was fine about 1000 miles ago when I got car.

I was thinking at maybe cluch needs to be bleed. I have an factory service manual wich guides me remove reservoir gap ( wery clear) and diaphragm ??? What diaphragm should be in figure 2.? And excuse my stupidity

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Figure2.

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Steve-Indy · Jul 4, 2016

Bleeding clutch is not difficult if you know the layout. Send me your email for my homemade diagram. [email protected] and, call if you like 317-402-9014. Suggest you search "reverse lockout" and read the threads for several "reverse issues"...including the solenoid .

AZTVR · Jul 4, 2016

Bowtie said:
What diaphragm should be in figure 2.?

When you remove the cap, you should be looking at a very flexible rubber "diaphram" sitting in the master cylinder. Remove it and be careful to not drip fluid on your paint.

Contact Steve, he is very helpful.

Bowtie · Jul 4, 2016

You guys rock!!

I was thinking there might be rubber seal or something acting as diaphram. But now I know it is missing. Something to add my list. Might explain why fluid was so dirty.

Steve, I send you an email!

Steve-Indy · Jul 4, 2016

Got it, thanks.

Clutch anatomy photo sent. Call for any questions.

Bowtie · Jul 5, 2016

Thank you Steve for the pics and good spirit.

I did clean the bleeder screw, it had some rust and dirt in it. Then I tryed to bleed it again as told in servce manual.

Pedal still felt bit spongy. Then I pressure bleed it and finally got all the old fluid out. But pedal still felt spongy and did not open the clutch enough to get gear on.

What is the purpose of pushing clutch as fast as possible at least 10 times after bleeder screw is closed?

Steve-Indy · Jul 5, 2016

Pumping up pressure...but speed is less important to me. Did you completely remove the bleeder for cleaning?

Now, let me add that when we hold a week long Special Service Session at a friend's Dodge dealership here in Indy and bring Viper Tech Tom Sessions to town for same, Tom has me pump the clutch a few times, then hold the pedal down while he opens the bleeder and gets a blast of fluid into a rag. He then has me pump the clutch until I get a good pedal ( about 20 times), we then repeat the whole procedure 5-6 more rounds...lowering the car periodically for reservoir inspection and refilling. This works quite well...noting that I have literally done this dozens and dozens of times in the 8 separate events that we have held over 5 years. By the way, with this technique, one should remove the clutch inspection plate and clean (liberal use of brake cleaner from a large pressurized spray can) the area and the bottom side of the Viper...always keeping brake fluid off of painted body surfaces.

As far as the pumping rapidity, Tom usually slows me down.

Have you determined that the line from the Master Cylinder is fully open? BAD things happen to MC's, lines,bleeders, and slave cylinders when BRAKE FLUID is left in the system indefinitely...corrosion !! I/we have seen and serviced 13 year old Vipers that have NEVER had the clutch fluid changed. When this happens, we have also needed to replace more than a few several slave and master cylinders on Vipers that "limp in' of arrive on a flat bed.

cfiiman · Jul 5, 2016

Steve's advice is always excellent and he has certainly saved my ass a time or two

I had the clutch master break on me (physically shot out in the engine bay lol) and when I got it all back together nothing I did could get the air out. I stayed under the car forever squirting it out and tightening and repeating but just couldn't get all the air out for some reason. So I used the trick of pulling a "slight" vacuum on the system from the reservoir and that did the trick for me. There are 2 camps on this that it may damage the slave seal if done too hard but so far I've seen no negative consequences so if you can't get it you might try that.

Steve-Indy · Jul 6, 2016

After you get clutch pedal feeling normal, and if you still not engage reverse, remember to check fuse to the lockout and voltage to lockout as mentioned in my rmail.

Bowtie · Jul 6, 2016

Steve and guys,

Thank you so much for the excellent and well explained detailed techniques. After 20 + times pumping and bleeding I fianlly got firm pedal and gears are going in including reverse!

This car has been thru several owners and maintained really badly. Fluid in clutch master cylinder was totally black.
I am sure missing rubber diaphgram wasnt helping the case.

Steve-Indy · Jul 6, 2016

I will try to find a source for that part...it may from Ram.

Steve-Indy · Jul 7, 2016

I think that I have the right part on the way...thanks to Tom Sessions. Once I see the part, I will contact you by email.

Bowtie · Jul 7, 2016

Steve you rock!

Steve-Indy · Jul 12, 2016

Part is here...check your email.

How to bleed the clutch?

Bowtie

Enthusiast

Steve-Indy

VCA Venom Member

AZTVR

Enthusiast

Bowtie

Enthusiast

Steve-Indy

VCA Venom Member

Bowtie

Enthusiast

Steve-Indy

VCA Venom Member

cfiiman

Viper Owner

Steve-Indy

VCA Venom Member

Bowtie

Enthusiast

Steve-Indy

VCA Venom Member

Steve-Indy

VCA Venom Member

Bowtie

Enthusiast

Steve-Indy

VCA Venom Member

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