WORLDS BEST WAX

MADDMAXS57

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Porter cable, 3m and Pinnicle souvereign wax are unbeatable for dark cars IMHO.
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ZEUS

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It's like MJ wearing Nikes or addidas....once you have eliminated crap products its how you do the work, end of story.
How you apply and remove it, how many coats how much heat, how polished and how wet...
If you are doing it yourselves only buy the nicest packaging and the most expensive...if it makes you feel better. Otherwise give it to someone who does this for a living...it's all in how its done, the product is 10% of the story. And for all those who are taking pictures....you can't see anything until up close...so it looks shiny...give it up.
GIVE IT TO A PROFESSIONAL you need experience in not 10 or 20 cars but hundreds and hundreds.
-Sorry, about the rant.
PS- look at what's in your zymol and that "smells so good" stuff. The same little jars are relabled and sold as exfoliants at a makeup counter for your wives. Same ingredients ....bees wax, walnut shells, etc.....it costs them more to make the jar, the next is the "smell"!
PPS- Agentf1, none of this directed to your pics....
 
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agentf1

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It's like MJ wearing Nikes or addidas....once you have eliminated crap products its how you do the work, end of story.
How you apply and remove it, how many coats how much heat, how polished and how wet...
If you are doing it yourselves only buy the nicest packaging and the most expensive...if it makes you feel better. Otherwise give it to someone who does this for a living...it's all in how its done, the product is 10% of the story. And for all those who are taking pictures....you can't see anything until up close...so it looks shiny...give it up.
GIVE IT TO A PROFESSIONAL you need experience in not 10 or 20 cars but hundreds and hundreds.
-Sorry, about the rant.
PS- look at what's in your zymol and that "smells so good" stuff. The same little jars are relabled and sold as exfoliants at a makeup counter for your wives. Same ingredients ....bees wax, walnut shells, etc.....it costs them more to make the jar, the next is the "smell"!
PPS- Agentf1, none of this directed to your pics....

You are right on Zeus, it is all in the prep. The only place the LSP (last step product) really makes a difference is in durability (one of the reasons I love Zaino so much).

You are also correct about pictures not really showing much. I have seen some horible cars look awesome in pics. People still like seeing them though. ;) :lmao:
 

MADDMAXS57

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Hmm, non professional done at home in my garage.
Don't waste your money on taking it to a professional, you can do this at home with a porter cable, 3m and pinnicle souvereign wax . . . There's more close ups in my folder for the non believers.


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agentf1

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Hmm, non professional done at home in my garage.
Don't waste your money on taking it to a professional, you can do this at home with a porter cable, 3m and pinnicle souvereign wax . . . There's more close ups in my folder for the non believers.

Your car looks great but you can still see some swirls around the sun in the upper right side of your attachment.

While you can get it looking pretty nice by yourself with a Porter Cable the paint on the Viper and most cars is very hard and it is tough to get it perfect when just using a PC since the PC really is not powerful enough to remove "all" of the swirls. Not trying to discourage somebody from trying it yourself as they are great tools for novist but do not expect any miracles.
 

chimazo

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I've had experience with the PC and it simply can't get out all the imperfections in my paint. It will get out 80% of them, but it's taken a lot of work just to reach that point. My hood still has some stubborn swirls. I will be giving it to my father to learn how to use.

I splurged and my Flex should be here in a few days. It's sort of a combination RO and polisher in that the head spins, too.

For wax, I've had good results with the p21s Carnauba Wax. I wouldn't bother using it on my DD, as I don't think it has the durability for that kind of use, but for a "show" wax, it's great. I apply it using the crappy little dinky applicator sponge it comes with. No dust, no marks on black trim, and easy to wipe off. Somewhat greasy, though.
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GBS

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I have a Flex and well as a Metabo rotary and a PC. The flex does great job and is easy to use. It does a much better and faster job then a PC IMO. The rotary does a faster job but takes more care and experience then both the Flex and the PC. These days a have a 4" backing plate on my PC and only use in to get in some tight areas with 4" pads.

I used a Flex on the detail of my 02 ACR in the pictures below. The picture below is after polishing and before applying any wax or paint sealant.
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Paint after polishing with menzerna micro polish then Pinnacle Souveran Paste wax over Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant.
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chimazo

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turtle wax ten bucks save your money

I've actually had decent results with the traditional green tub of Turtle Wax, and wouldn't hesitate to use it on a daily driver, however fancy/expensive it may be. It is a little tough to get off, and harder to apply unless you take it out of the tub and rub it onto a pad to use with a buffer. The "nano" liquid wax (I forget who makes it) is much easier to apply by hand, as well as being easier to remove, if you just want to grab something while buying wiper blades. I never noticed much difference between any of these, Mothers, or Meguires waxes.

I still think the p21s gives a wetter, deeper finish at the cost of less durability, but like I said, I consider it a "show" wax. It's not extraordinarily expensive at ~$30 shipped.

It becomes a little silly, but fun, to try a BUNCH of different products. I have the usual Pinnacle, Wolfgang, Mequires assortment, and eventually will try Mezerna. But I agree that tools and technique, NOT product, are responsible for at least 80% of the result. There are a TON of instructional short videos online, but practice is the key and the satisfaction you will get when you get every last swirl/imperfection out (the Holy Grail :hail:) is something you just keep working at. At least that's what I'm aiming for!
 

Paul Hawker

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At a Meguiars/Viper event we were warned that in order to get a show finish, a significant amount of paint must be removed with buffers. Only so many show finishes are possible before the paint gets too thin.

Better they say to settle for a slightly less perfect detailing, and save the paint.

Trying to get out every visible scratch or swirl is not possible without removing your paint.

Better to get a less than perfect, but still spectacular shine, and save the paint.
 

chimazo

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Good advice, Paul.

I didn't mean to imply that I'm hitting the Viper every other weekend with the buffer in search of that perfect finish. With a car that's actually driven, a perfect finish will never happen (just ask my front bumper). More like a good once-over once or twice a year, touch ups if I see a boo-boo, the rest of the time it's just hand waxing and detail spray.

Once I get the Flex and have time, I'm going to hit the car again, and hopefully this time the swirls will be removed for the most part.
 

GBS

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At a Meguiars/Viper event we were warned that in order to get a show finish, a significant amount of paint must be removed with buffers. Only so many show finishes are possible before the paint gets too thin.

Better they say to settle for a slightly less perfect detailing, and save the paint.

Trying to get out every visible scratch or swirl is not possible without removing your paint.

Better to get a less than perfect, but still spectacular shine, and save the paint.

Good point but if you take paint gauge readings before and after you polish your car you will be amazed a how very little clear coat you actually take off.

I'm lucky if one of my cars need polished once a year. I take great car to properly wash and dry my cars in the first place so I don't get them all swirled up. A lot of time I just spot polish my cars.
 

AZViper08

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Good point but if you take paint gauge readings before and after you polish your car you will be amazed a how very little clear coat you actually take off.

I'm lucky if one of my cars need polished once a year. I take great car to properly wash and dry my cars in the first place so I don't get them all swirled up. A lot of time I just spot polish my cars.

GBS, PM sent.

I'm one who is very particular about my cars and afraid to get the dreaded swirl marks on my '08. Is there a trick in technique or washing/drying material used that will reduce swirl marks?
 

Marv S

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HI-NOS-Viper

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Swissvax Best of show. Mirrors anyone? You can read the address off of the building through the reflection :omg:

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gb66gth

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I found Zymal to kind of ****. Now I use only 100% pure ear wax. I pick it myself and and it works great. The only problem is that I can only wax a very small area of my car at a time!
 

eucharistos

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Now I use only 100% pure ear wax. I pick it myself and and it works great. The only problem is that I can only wax a very small area of my car at a time!

seems like you need one of these:

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ViperTony

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Swissvax Best of show. Mirrors anyone? You can read the address off of the building through the reflection :omg:

Looking at some of the prices for Swissvax it would be cheaper to re-clear the car. Heck of a shine you got there though. Very nice. :2tu:
 

Racejaw

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I use Collinite SUPER DOUBLECOAT
Last Step Paste Wax

It's a company that made marine wax back in 1936, what's harder on surfaces than salt water?
They also make automotive wax too. I was tipped off about this company by a professional detailing company...he said no many people know about it except people in the detailing business.

So, I have been using it on all my cars for years and it looks great / holds up to time and elements.

Give it a try, you won't be disappointed just impressed!
 

MoparMap

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I've used the Collinite 645 (or something like that) insulator wax. A little goes a long way and it's been pretty great. I'm not a major detailer by any means, but it seems like some pretty good stuff. I got the tip from someone I sold the old 4 speed out of my 67 Dart to. He was really big on detailing cars and told me about it. Nice to see someone else has heard the name.

The stuff I used isn't quite paste wax though. I'd say it's somewhere between liquid and paste. It's in a bottle and gets fairly stiff, but not like wax in a can. You can still squirt it out if you squeeze the bottle. Think more like a thick sauce or something.
 

steve e

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MoparMap, I have used that stuff to, but I first found out about it when I owned a boat, it was a popular marine wax, it was a lot of work to wax a 43 foot boat, especially with Collinite you had to really rub it in, but it seemed to last the longest of all the waxes out there at the time, so it was worth the effort.
 

oats

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I use Collinite SUPER DOUBLECOAT
Last Step Paste Wax

It's a company that made marine wax back in 1936, what's harder on surfaces than salt water?
They also make automotive wax too. I was tipped off about this company by a professional detailing company...he said no many people know about it except people in the detailing business.

So, I have been using it on all my cars for years and it looks great / holds up to time and elements.

Give it a try, you won't be disappointed just impressed!
First time hearing about this brand meanwhile been using turtle wax
 

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