car has no power?

SquadXX

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2000 gts. Paxton, build motor, rsi triple pump, aem v1.
Car was in the shop for a while getting motor rebuilt and I've had it with me at home for about 3 weeks. Needs a time which I'm going to get from Todd at A&C.

Problem. I drive the car around the block since I had it back about twice a week. Had it hooked up to trickle charger as well. One day last week I went to drive it and started fune, then I cut it off to do something non car related. Tried to start it again but no power, nothing. I wait about 30 secs and try again and starts right up. This week I started it on Tuesday and no issues, however on Friday I went to start it and no issues, I pull out the garage and make it about 50 feet and it dies. I try to start it and on the first few cranks, it sounds like it wants to start but does and after that, it's just dead. Put the trickle charger in it and I hear a clicking sound when it trys to chsrge and it keeps repeating this pattern.

So I get a new battery from advanced auto, an amg gel based and same thing. So I hook the trickle up to it and it acts normal like it's charging with no clicking nose but once I go to open the door, it starts the clicking pattern again. I hooked the trickle directly to the battery and it shows 75% so I don't think it's a faulty battery. I even removed the 2 new O2 sensor I installed this week and no change. I looked at the fuse under the hood and the asd one looks fine. There was a blown one for the rear O2sensor which I swapped out with the door fuse and no luck. I'm lost as to what to try next. I hope it's not the aem not do I know how to test it and aem no longer supports it.
 
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SquadXX

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Sorry for the long post, but tired to give as much info as possible.
 
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SquadXX

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The amg is brand new, purchased today. When I connected the trickle charger directly to the battery, it does not do the clicking however car is still dead. Door won't even open (thankfully I put the window down)
 
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SquadXX

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I don't think the battery is a defect or dead because of I hook the trickle up directly to the battery behind the rear wheel, it charges with no clicking nose.
 
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SquadXX

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Well we changed the socks in the fuel pump then the plan was to go to the dyno and tune when Todd from A&C looked at my tune to make it driveable, he noticed one of the O2 sensors was bad. I replaced it then this....but I'll update that post once I get to the dyno and hope it doesntvrun lean. But to answer your question, last thing replaced was the socks
 
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SquadXX

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I connected the trickle directly to the new battery and it's taking the charge and not clicking sound. I'll check in the morning to see if it starts. Weird how it will show it's chargingvwhen connected directly to battery but not when I connected at the terminals under the hood.
 

AZTVR

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It is very difficult to troubleshoot an electrical problem without using a voltmeter to determine what is happening. The first thing that I would want to know is if your new battery is fully charged, i.e., I would want to know what is the voltage at the battery terminals and then also from the jump terminal at the PDC to the frame.
 
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SquadXX

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The new battery was reading 75 percent when I first hooked it up. I put the trickle charger on it and an hr later and it was at 25 percent so I kept it hooked up until it reached 50 percent and then tried to open the door and nothing. It's weird because the car is completely dead, absolutely no lights, nothing.
I'll get a voltmeter and get some readings

If the AEM was dead/no longer functioning, would it **** all power like that where no lights or door will not open?
 

AZTVR

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So I get a new battery from advanced auto, an amg gel based

Just on a side note, I assume that you meant AGM which is the typical alternative to a flooded battery. I would be surprised if it were a gel cell battery which is a different type. https://www.optimabatteries.com/en-...what-difference-between-agm-and-gel-batteries Note that an AGM battery takes a different charging profile, so you should have a charger that accomodates that.

You can tell the state of charge of a battery by measuring its voltage without a load. I am not familiar with the AGM characteristics; but I did find some references like the chart here: http://www.energymatters.com.au/components/battery-voltage-discharge/

A
s to the AEM, or any other electrical item that fails, that would normally **** a fuse rather than presenting the symptoms you describe, IMHO. Your issue sounds like either a battery issue, or a connection issue between the battery and the electrical system, such as a loose connection or corroded connection (high resistance) on either the positive or negative (ground) side.
 
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SquadXX

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Thanks for catching that. Yes it's an AutoCraft Platinum AGM battery. I'll check my charger to see if it charges that type of battery even though the charger says it's fully charged now.

I agree, it's probably a faulty new battery or connection as you mentioned. Trying to figure out before I take to dealer.

Thanks again
 

Steve-Indy

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You need to check your battery cables at the connectors...they can corrode, fall apart over time from the outgassing around the terminals. I use a strong tug to be sure they are solid. Do this only if you are equipped/prepared to install new cables.
 
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SquadXX

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Did a read on the old battery, shows 12.35. Did a read on new battery which is still on the car and shows 13.1 (just took off trickle prior to checking voltage), took reading at the terminals under hood and shows 3.05. So it's something with the connect. Also when I lightly pushed on the red terminal wires, I heard a clicking or shuttering sound for a sec or two. So sounds like a short or cable corroded?
 
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SquadXX

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Ok so I feel stupid; so one of the thicker wires on the red terminal could be moved very very slightly when you pushed on it. I noticed a very small, gap which I don't even want to call it thst, but gap between that wire at the terminal. So I check the the nut (how I feel) holding all the wires ******* down and it's on firm however I get a wrench and tighten it up one bit (maybe was able to get a 1/5 turn). I go to check the door and it opens; I hope in and turn the car and starts right up. ***. So now do I get the cable checked out or was it really just a oh so slightly loose nut?

I will be taking the battery back and getting my $180.

Thanks for the recommends on the voltage better and the check points.
 

AZTVR

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Ok so I feel stupid; so one of the thicker wires on the red terminal could be moved very very slightly when you pushed on it. I noticed a very small, gap which I don't even want to call it thst, but gap between that wire at the terminal. So I check the the nut (how I feel) holding all the wires ******* down and it's on firm however I get a wrench and tighten it up one bit (maybe was able to get a 1/5 turn). I go to check the door and it opens; I hope in and turn the car and starts right up. ***. So now do I get the cable checked out or was it really just a oh so slightly loose nut?

From your description of one of several wires moving, it sounds like you may have an aftermarket end on your battery cable if you are talking about a loose connection between the wire and the connector, rather than a loose connection between the connector and the battery post. (I can't remember how my battery cable end looked like.) Anyway, yes, it definitely could be due to a loose connection; but, it could also be some corrosion between the wire and the metal connector, if that is the kind of cable end connector you have. If it was corrosion, then tightening it may have broken through that layer and you still may not have an optimum connection.
 
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SquadXX

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Thanks AZTVR; I'll have the shop look at the cable when it goes for tuning. Would hate to be out driving away from home and have a connection problem.
 

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