Clutch slave cylinder failed, whats next ??

Abe Froman

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My “06” is in the shop having the clutch slave cylinder replaced, under warranty.:mad: Does anyone have any experience or thoughts on the root cause or mode of failure for this component? My mileage is 6400 and I am the 2nd owner, (Purchased 1yr ago at 4400 miles) should I be preparing for a transmission or clutch failure in the near future? :shocked: Thx
 
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You will be fine this happens occasionally and could have just been a weak casting and or if someone before you had the transmission out they could have fractured it during removal or install.

Don't worry
 

bluesrt

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anything goes on a hypo sports car-its like a box of chocolates,you never know what your gonna get
 

dave6666

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Experience... The slave on my '01 was toast at 18K miles.

Thoughts... Dirt (clutch dust?) wearing the seals. Heat deteriorating the seals? Fluid contamination or wrong fluid?

Does the car go to the strip or track?
 

adamlotus

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compared to other high performance cars like ferrari and lambo the viper is very reliable dont worry and just have fun and enjoy the car
 

bluesrt

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getting the clutch hot will kill the slave in a short like,so if thats what your doing,better figure out how to change it yourself,cause it aint gonna be the first
 

Tom F&L GoR

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My “06” is in the shop having the clutch slave cylinder replaced, under warranty.:mad: Does anyone have any experience or thoughts on the root cause or mode of failure for this component? My mileage is 6400 and I am the 2nd owner, (Purchased 1yr ago at 4400 miles) should I be preparing for a transmission or clutch failure in the near future? :shocked: Thx


What was the mode of failure?

Having replaced one after 60,000 miles, and then the second one started leaking within a year, I "experimented" with other fluids and that seems to have fixed me (now at 95,000 on the one that leaked.)

Not to be recommended at this time, but the DIY crowd might want to try aircraft hydraulic oil for a week (a severe seal swell agent) and then flush well to a 0W20 full synthetic engine oil. Goofy crazy and lucky, but worked for me.
 
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Abe Froman

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As always the Viper family comes to the aid and support of another.
I hope it’s the last failure for a while, I’m finally able to drive the car this summer rather then just look at it when I get home from business. Thanks everyone for the replies, I should have my “PET SNK” back this Friday in fine working order. Jeff
 

Kevan

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Not to be recommended at this time, but the DIY crowd might want to try aircraft hydraulic oil for a week (a severe seal swell agent) and then flush well to a 0W20 full synthetic engine oil. Goofy crazy and lucky, but worked for me.
As I'm doing mine in the next 24 hours, some info would be appreciated.

What's the difference between DOT3/4 brake fluid and a nice thick 0W20 syn. oil?
Aside from the moisture thing.
 

ViperGeorge

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I lost the slave on my 03 when it only had a few thousand miles on it. Turned out the Pilot bearing was not installed properly in the engine by the factory causing an out of alignment condition that destroyed the slave cylinder. Fixed under warranty.
 

Tom F&L GoR

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My hope, and seems to have worked, was that the aircraft hydraulic oil swelled and softened the seals, and I changed it out before the seals got too big, too soft, or simply dissolved. The 0W-20 synthetic is a seal-swell neutral fluid and of higher viscosity than the brake fluid. I wanted something that wouldn't leak easily.

I haven't looked this up, but the oil probably wouldn't as good at low temperatures (although so far, so good). My guess was that high temperature range would be as good, anti-oxidancy would be as good, water tolerance is probably worse (would separate rather than absorb it). The lucky guess was that the seals tolerate oil; for instance I have seen several type brake dust seal rubbers swell when put in contact with engine oil.

The real benefit came from the AHO 15, a high altitude capable fluid. It must be highly aromatic to cause swelling and probably isn't too common. If you feel you have nothing to lose, try an automatic transmission fluid or power steering fluid with "seal conditioners" or for "older cars." Those suggestions would contain some seal swell additive and be thicker. Together that should reduce leakage and maybe cure a slow leak. Try it for a few weeks, then switch to the synthetic oil?

Usually I try to give out pretty solid, goof-proof advice. I think the above could help, I think it shouldn't be worse, and even if it is worse, it isn't a catastrophic problem, and shouldn't be a safety issue. It isn't a recommended cure-all.
 

Kevan

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Thanks Tom!
I understand that your information is well-thought-out theory backed up with tons of facts and professional experience.

For this one, I'm going to go back to DOT 3/4 brake fluid, purely for the moisture content where I live and the 4 seasons the truck sees.


SIDE NOTE:
Does anyone have any interest in one of my DIY articles for clutch/slave cyl. replacement?
I'm guessing that the majority of folks here will take the car to the dealership or pro shop and have them do it, but there might be a few wrenchers here willing to tackle the job.
I figured I'd ask before I took 200 pics and tons of notes.
 
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Abe Froman

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I would appreciate the “How To” info on replacing the Slave cylinder. The only reason Im not doing it myself is because the repair was covered by the dealer.
 

dave6666

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Does anyone have any interest in one of my DIY articles for clutch/slave cyl. replacement?

I've got a built in how to in my brain.

Once from when I replaced the slave at 17K.

Secondly from when I saw it again at 17.5K when I replaced the clutch that everyone said I should have replaced at 17K :rolaugh:
 
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