Color wet sanding

[Leonard Knight]

I turned my 18 year old son loose on my 96GTS and it came out great. Paint looks smooth and all the fine scratches were gone. He has done a few other cars before so I knew he could handle it. You have to be very careful NOT to go through the clear coat which is especially ******* the curves and edges. Done right it improves the paint job 100%. Done wrong it will ruin it. You should not have to respray the clear if you color sand correctly.

Hope that helps.

 

[dansauto]

I have a body shop and would really not suggest sanding a car of that age. First of all you car has clear coat, so you will not be "color" sanding. Your clear coat will not be a "thick" as it was when new by virtue of age/oxidation and wear (washing) Your best bet is to just buff with a med compound. Do NOT buff any where the paint looks thin or you may go right thru. Actually if you never buffed before, I would suggest you take your car to a quality bodyshop and explain what you want to do. Buffing will minimize the scratches, but remember you are taking material off to do this. But, that will make the car look shiny unitl you are ready for a paint job. Older vipers don't seem to have the quality finish that newer ones have. But a good bodyshop will make your viper look better than new!!

 

[Jeff Torrey]

William- I am curious. I think you could wash the car with Dawn dishwashing liquid to strip the wax off. Wet sand the car by hand with say 1600 sandpaper and have a spray man put a few coats of clearcoat on. Then buff the finish. Sure would be cheaper than a complete paint job. Plus after you wet sand the car you could touch up the scratches in the color coat, before you spray the clear. I have done this before on an antique car I had. Worked out great.

 

[FRANK]

I had my hood d/a'ed with like 1,600 grit and rebuffed and it looks like glass. It had some minor spiderwebbing. The guy who did it was good...he charged me $150 to do it. Yes, it takes some clear off but 99.9% of Vipers are kept inside all of the time whereby the sun etc. won't affect the clear and or break it down.

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

Double Venom needs to step in here with some advice.

 

[Double Venom]

Bill,

I'll give you my opinion. Everyone that knows me, knows I usually have one.

What I consider fine to light scratches should never need repainting on a Base Coat / Clear Coat finish. Do you have to look at them at an angle, certian light conditions, etc.to see them? Or are they prevalent at all times?

Lets assume they are of the light variety. I like a lot of what has been said here, but I would take a little from each one.

This most important part is to have a "Pro" do it. Even if it's a buddy's buddy, just make sure they have plenty of time behind a buffer.

Our procedure for the problem as I see it.

We would wet, block sand the entire car with anywhere from 800 to 1200 grit paper. (Some people will have heart failure if you mention 800, but we use 600 on our brand new paint jobs to start with!)

Sand in only one direction..no circles! Then start buffing with a comparable 800 grit coumpound, then finish it off with a glaze sealer type coumpound, washing with liquid soap and warm water between coats.

The factory clear is more than thick enough to do this! The end results should and will look better than when the car was new.

I wish I could see it, the solution would be easy.

Just a short note and I suspect the answer is no, but, can you drag your fingernail over any of the scratches and feel them?

An additional side note, if you really, really want a superb looking finish, have the shop wet sand the entire car with 600, do a little touch up on the chips or what ever, then simply re-clear coat with two coats of clear. The shop should then buff out the new coat. Cost should be in the 3k range, tops.

My 2-cents. Hope it helps.
DV
If you want to, feel free to call the shop. 740-852-5280

 

[John ACR]

Bump
Where in the world is Sal Zaino?
Hi Sal, I would like to know your comments.