Control Arm Bushing Up-Grade-...

pokeyl

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This may have been covered before. I am using the Energy Suspensions Gen 2 bushing kit on my 2004, $200 for both front and rear.

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I also used a bushing press kit from Amazon. Works perfect!
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I have not started the rear yet!
 

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BoondocSaint

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Worthwhile upgrade for sure. I rebuilt my entire suspension using energy poly bushings. I love that a sports car the caliber of a Viper doesn't cost Ferrari money to rebuild/upgrade.
 
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pokeyl

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Just do one part at a time. Top, then reinstall, follow with the bottom. About one hour per side after the jacking and wheel off.
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Old School

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Just do one part at a time. Top, then reinstall, follow with the bottom. About one hour per side after the jacking and wheel off.
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The rears can be done the same way, with the axle and place, just a little more challenging.

Also, a good time to replace the lower shock bushings, mine were metal on metal.
 

MambaK100

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I need to do the same to my 2004 Viper. Thank you for the writeup and photos.
May I ask, where did you buy the bushing kit? I cannot seem to find it for the Gen3 Vipers.
 

GTS Dean

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For anyone NOT using urethane bushings, or monoball bearings in your suspension the following excerpts from the Service Manual are important. Some warnings about not fully tightening bushings in shock eyes, wishbone pivots, swaybar end links are repeated CONSTANTLY throughout. And here are the warnings:

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Remember this: depending on Gen, the cars are ballasted with at least 150-165# in each seat to adjust the frame heights relative to the lower, inner wheel lips. Once that is in-spec, ALL the other bushings are tightened from a basic assembly torque of 30-40 lb-ft up to their final spec. You can't get at all the bolts with the tires installed, but the lower wishbones have to be supported at that height. If you loosen any bolts other than the lower cam adjusters, the process should be done at any corner or end of the car you worked on. In addition to the shocks, the bushings help control compression and rebound dynamics of the chassis.

And with respect to the alignment cams, if they are pulled during disassembly, you need to start with them centered in the mounting ears with the index holes pointing up and 12 o'clock. If your frame and bushings are in good shape, your basic alignment should be pretty close right there.

FYI - all these excerpts are from the 2006 Gen 3 manual. There is a lot of similarity between Gen 1, 2 and 3 language. I suspect Gen 4 and 5 are pretty similar too.
 

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pokeyl

pokeyl

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Make sure you buy 2 rear kits! Gen 3-4-5 all take the same bushings front and rear.
 

MoparMap

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Like GTS Dean pointed out, tightening down on those bushings at full droop is a no no. Using a jack to move the suspension to it's proper location has always served me well.

Yeah, I think this is a good case of "close enough" for a street driven car. Just jack the car up from the bottom of the lower control arm until it just starts to come off whatever jackstand or other support you are using. It won't be the exact same corner load as everything sitting level, but it will get the suspension much closer to ride height for a final torque than anything you might be able to do without wheel plates or a nice lift.
 

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