Coupe fuel door retrofit on Convertible

10 BANGER

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I started looking into the possibility of retrofitting a coupe fuel door on my convertible. I talked to Michael at XVIPERS which carries these doors at a much better prize than the dealership is asking for and in spite of all that’s been said about Michael here on the forum, I found him to be a (for the 4th time) pleasure to do business with. He then referred me to Mark Jorgensen (nice guy) from WOODHOUSE who had retrofitted a Coupe fuel door on a Convertible. He was very kind taking the time to explain what he had done. Once I got a visual on the process I decided to tackle the job myself. This may not be for everyone since it involves trimming of the panel without being able to return to stock. All I can say is that once I saw the results I see no reason to.

Parts;

06’- up coupe fuel door.
5 Allen head bolts (Included w/door)
Coupe fuel filler neck (mount) housing
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Tools I Needed;

Drill motor
Drill bits 1/4, 3/8
1” Rotary file
2” Sanding disk
90 degree Dotco motor
Allen wrench 5MM
Phillips ***** driver
1/4" drive 12mm socket
1/4” ratchet
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I’ll try to keep it as simple as possible.

Start (Mask as req’d for protection)

1. Remove RR wheel
2. Remove aft wheel liner
3. Remove fuel door (2 T30 Torx bolts)
4. Remove fuel cap. (Protect/cover with clean shop towel)
5. Remove filler neck (3 Phillip screws)
6. Remove filler neck housing (4 Phillip screws)

Trimming of panel (Take your time)

7. The raised fuel door mounting portion on the panel will be completely trimmed off to allow for new door to nest flush into position. Touch up with paint after trim is optional since it will not be exposed.
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Locating new fuel door.

8. Remove the 2 aligning pins on back of fuel door.
(Convertible panels do not have pin alignment/locating holes)
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9. Insert allen head bolt in top right hole of fuel door and into the existing top right hole on panel. This is the only existing hole that is used on new door for alignment/installation (hole depicted directly above control arm bolt). Center the fuel door with panel's fuel door cut out(even constant gap) and drill a 1/4” hole diagonally (kitty corner/bottom left) from alignment hole.(hole depicted directly below flor jack).
Note: Opening noted aligning hole may be required (3/8) for additional play/adjustment. Protective tape removed for locating/aligning purpose.
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10. Install filler neck housing (coupe) to panel and fuel door with allen head bolts secure/tight in place. Spot drill only the (3) remaining holes.(recheck alignment first)


11. Remove fuel door & housing and drill thru remainder of spotted holes on panel.
Note: Bottom right hole may break out at the edge of trimmed area. The hole will remain functional.(hole depicted directly below connecting rod).


12. Reinstall filler neck housing and fuel door assembly (5 allen bolts) and check for flushness around periphery of door. Remove and Trim casting as required at mating points to achieve flushness. Repeat this step as required.
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13. Replace by repeating steps 1-6 in reverse order and you are done. I installed the grounding wire on a bolt connecting the panel and bumper together using a hex nut. Brewsky time.....
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Here is a link to additional pics. Anyone in SoCal area wanting to do this send me a PM>
Alpine pictures from cars photos on webshots
 

HyperViper

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Nice job Demoe. How did you feel half way in when the grinding started? Think I'll leave mine alone.

Ron
 
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10 BANGER

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Nice job Demoe. How did you feel half way in when the grinding started? Think I'll leave mine alone.

Ron

Hey Ron,
It took me two days of measuring and making sure it would actually work before I made the decision cause I knew once I started the grinding there was no turning back. I felt alot better once the door was actually nesting in place located with no major issues.

See you at the Big Bear run.

Demoe

What did the parts cost you?

Michael gave me a great deal since I bought all the parts needed from him. I'd rather he tell you the cost. I payed about half than I would have thru the dealeship. He'll set you up.
 

BolsOut

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:2tu:
Very Nice.
I've long considered doing this. The only thing thats held me back is just about every car (and truck) out there nowadays has one of these, and it kinda ****** me off. Kinda like putting a wing on a Sentra.

Plus I dont quite have the Huevos Grandes to hack on my car like that.
:D
 
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10 BANGER

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:2tu:
Very Nice.
I've long considered doing this. The only thing thats held me back is just about every car (and truck) out there nowadays has one of these, and it kinda ****** me off. Kinda like putting a wing on a Sentra.

Plus I dont quite have the Huevos Grandes to hack on my car like that.
:D

Believe me, I wasn't very thrilled about the trimming part of the job. But the coupe door was the only door I liked and it looks nothing like what's out there nor is the quality the same.
:headbang:
 

Twister

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cant say i care much for it on the verts..On your black vert with the chrome rims and silver stripes it looks good..But on the other colors I just cant really see it...

Ive been thinking about haveing this black one done on my yellow srt10
 
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Venomiss

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This is a great write up! Thank you for taking the time to share it.
 

ViperTony

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Wow...great job and kudos for having the intestinal fortitude to take a grinder to you body panel. Looks great! :2tu:
 

Alabaster Mamba

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Wow...great job and kudos for having the intestinal fortitude to take a grinder to you body panel. Looks great! :2tu:

You said it so much nicer. Intestinal fortitude to me in this case means "bowling *****". Incredible job and incredible "How to" with pictures.
 

Randomaccess

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Just did this yesterday and came out great. Fantastic writeup. Much better than whats in the Viper Mag which seems to have some steps missing likely chopped off unintentionally during layout.

I tried using the template method described in the mag... but the template was slightly off. Its hard to trace something plumb when it won't lay flat. If I were to do it again I would recommend cutting out the high spots first until the door can lay flat, then mark and drill the holes. Similar to whats described here.

One other step. The housing has a hole in it on the 4 O'Clock position. If you are going to use the original gas cap with the tether, attach it there first before assembly.
 
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10 BANGER

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Just did this yesterday and came out great. Fantastic writeup. Much better than whats in the Viper Mag which seems to have some steps missing likely chopped off unintentionally during layout.

I tried using the template method described in the mag... but the template was slightly off. Its hard to trace something plumb when it won't lay flat. If I were to do it again I would recommend cutting out the high spots first until the door can lay flat, then mark and drill the holes. Similar to whats described here.

One other step. The housing has a hole in it on the 4 O'Clock position. If you are going to use the original gas cap with the tether, attach it there first before assembly.


I'm glad it helped.
I haven't seen the write up on the Viper mag. but the steps I describe on the write up are spot on if you follow them in sequence. It took a lot of measuring before I could actually take the rotary file and start the trimming of the raised area that clears the verts OEM fuel door as it opens and did not have the original gas cap so the tether part (good to know though) was not added to the process.
Even after all measurements were taken and confirmed I was scared something could go wrong and then have to spend $3K to replace the panel. But as they say "No Guts No Glory"
Post some pics so we can see the results.:2tu:

HERE'S MINE
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BEFORE

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AFTER
 
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FLATOUT

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Used this write up for mine also and it turned out great!
 
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10 BANGER

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Used this write up for mine also and it turned out great!

Post your PICS if you've done this mod so other members can see what it would look like on theirs should they have the same or similar color viper as yours.
 
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FLATOUT

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I did, they're floating around. I'll try to add them to this thread at some point.
 

wikkid

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I like working on my car, but that looks like quite a project for a fuel door. Looks good though, like it a lot
 

FLATOUT

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...as long as you can man up enough to cut into your quarter panel.

Tape everything off well, and a dremel with a sanding drum works great. You can always take more off, but you can't put more back on:D
 

ohlarikd

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Not that it is a cheap alternative, but isn't that rear panel replaceable? Can you get a whole replacement panel and cut that up, and keep the original? Now, I understand that may sound a little extreme cost wise, but for those who want to 'mentally' return it to stock... I don't think the panels are marked with some identification, are they?

I don't YET have a Viper, so maybe I am wrong about the panel.
 
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10 BANGER

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Not that it is a cheap alternative, but isn't that rear panel replaceable? Can you get a whole replacement panel and cut that up, and keep the original? Now, I understand that may sound a little extreme cost wise, but for those who want to 'mentally' return it to stock... I don't think the panels are marked with some identification, are they?

I don't YET have a Viper, so maybe I am wrong about the panel.

Yes they are replaceble and it would defenetly be a pricey alternative but if this mod is not something you can pull off or really want then I would just leave it stock.
The panels are identified at the assy. line with assemblers initials date of mfg. and other stuff as you can see from the picture above.
 

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