Crankshaft Pulley too far in (misaligned)

YURIY POSPELOV

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Hello all, I have a 2000 GTS with about 20K miles on it. I’ve owned the car for a few month now. Noticed the serpentine belt was shredding on one side. Changed the belt, changed the tensioner. New belt started squeaking after one week. Used the water method to determine that the squeak was actually a “chirp” and was due to misalignment. Used the laser belt tool to inspect all pulleys and all of them are inline with each other except the crankshaft pulley. Crankshaft pulley sits too close to the engine almost 0.1” off center with the other pulleys. All on this car is stock, the pulley looks like it is stock and hasn’t been touched. The bolts are on tight. Pictures below show the laser and the straight edge placed on one of the pulleys for reference with the crankshaft. Any thoughts on how to correct this?


Side note – crankshaft pulley has a lot of very fine dust sitting “inside it”– I assume that came from the “bold” water pump roller right above it.


PS

Original owner had a gatorback belt on the car, I believe that is how he got around the squeak. I called a few places and no one carries the gatorbacks. Even if they did, I don’t think that such an offset is correct and don’t feel like changing shredded belts as regular maintenance.

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InTheZoneAC

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squeaking can be caused by a glazed belt (the back side), loose tension (old tensioner), or a welt belt (any spray that goes on the belt will also contribute to squeaking)

shredded belt is usually from misalignment and/or a loose tensioner which allows the belt to run up a pulley and wear the edges.

shredded belt and squeaking, I'd look at the tensioner first.
 
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YURIY POSPELOV

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tensioner was good but I replaced it anyway. Looked over the belt it is new, used the water method... squirt on the belt and the squeak goes away... used the tools to check pulley alignment - alignment is off on the front pulley...all other pulleys are dead on with each other.
 
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YURIY POSPELOV

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The verdict is in:
I've put a gatorback belt on, went for a ride, barely made it back.

I got the thing off - here are some pictures, looks like the right hand crank bolt claimed another victim - me. The gray dust inside the pulley seen in the picture in the beginning of the thread is dust from the back side of the bolt washer that was grinding on slipping balancer time to time. Even though I checked the bolt - I didn't check it enough (did not use a breaker bar that can put 250 lbs of torque - don't be like me - get the bar and really check it!)

Tell me what do you see as a next step? how do I (can I) verify that the shaft is still good and it is worth buying new parts. Bolt feels like it does have a "narrow" spot in the threads. They were dirtier than the pictures, I've cleaned them up. The bolt came out without issues, it was loose.

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steve e

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Run a good tap and die set on the crank and bolt, if you can you should buy a new bolt, that is a common issue on that year Viper. Check with Jon B at the Viper store and see if he sells the pin kit that would fix it for good, if not he will point you in the right direction.
 
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YURIY POSPELOV

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Yes the tap was a MUST, a lot of gunk came out of the crank... Had to take my time and go slow, back out a lot, but did it right. Got the new balancer, bolt, seal the whole deal... got it all together, pinned it, back on the road now... I have to say it was a physically demanding job. That 250 lbs of torque took a lot of effort with very little room! Thank you all who participated and helped out. Who would've know that loosen bolt would make the pulley "go in" vr move out of the engine... live and lear..

PS
Used the laser tool on the pulleys after new balancer was on - all pulleys DEAD ON with each other! SUPER!
 

steve e

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I am glad it all worked out, good job. The reason the balancer runs in to the crank is because its spinning on the crank grinding down removing the metal inside the balancer. By pinning it that will eliminate it from spinning, even if the bolt loosens up a bit.
 

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