DIY: Clutch Bleeding for Gen.3 & Gen.4 (T-56 and T-6060 transmissions)

Kevan

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PREFACE:
Many of my DIY articles are transposed from the dozens that I did for my 2005 Dodge Ram SRT-10. In regards to the engine and transmission, they are pretty much identical to what's found in the Gen.3 cars.
If you see something amiss or incorrect, please contact me and I will make sure this post gets updated.

Remember: All of these DIY articles come with a "PERFORM AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!" disclaimer.
I've idiot-proofed them as best I can but.....

Enjoy!

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

CLUTCH LINE BLEEDING PROCEDURE FOR 2004-2006 DODGE RAM SRT-10
(Also applies to Gen. 3 and Gen. 4 Viper coupe and convertible).



This DIY article will cover how to properly and correctly bleed the hydraulic clutch line in your Viper-powered vehicle, more specifically the Ram SRT-10.


This is a VERY EASY procedure, and can save you a ton of cash.
I'm not sure what the average dealer cost is to bleed a clutch line, but you can do it yourself for less than $20.


Here's a quick overview of the slave cylinder and where the bleed ***** is at:
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(image courtesy of ALLDATA)


Now that we have a general idea of where we're looking and what to look for, let's get our stuff together.
Difficulty Level: 2


Tools required:
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- 11mm combination wrench
- shop paper towel
- shop rag
- catch cup


Materials required:
- 1 pt. of DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid.
There are dozens of awesome brake fluid brands out there. Even the most exotic/******** stuff can be had for under $20.
Just make sure it's DOT3 or DOT4!
If you're switching from one to the other, you need to flush your entire line (drain and refill).


Under the hood we go....
Look for a yellow cap. One will be for your brake master cylinder, the other will be for your clutch master cylinder.
We want the clutch one. On the trucks, it's right next to the brake MC.
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Open the cap and have a look inside:
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There you see the rubber diaphragm and a little fluid inside of it.


We need to remove the diaphragm.
It lifts straight out of the MC reservoir.
Empty any fluid inside of it, and check that it's in good shape:
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Clean it too, since you have it out.


Make sure that the fluid is at the proper level.
If you're reading this on any other site than SRTConnection.com, that means someone stole it. They officially **** and you should ban them for committing a felony.
On the Viper MC, there's a little embossed "line" that runs around the outside of the MC. That's your FULL mark.
Don't go past the FULL mark because the diaphragm will displace enough fluid to bring it to the brim.


Put the cap back on the MC.


I stuff a shop paper towel between the MC and the brake lines in case of any spillage:
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Remember that brake fluid is VERY harmful to paint and clear coats.
The paper towel is just insurance.


Now we can go under the vehicle.


Locate the bleed ***** on the transmission.
It will be just above the input for the hydraulic line:
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It's that little brass hex head sticking out.


Here's where the fun starts. LOL
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Just like brake bleeding, you'll need a 2nd person to help ya out here.
1. They will push the clutch to the floor and hold it there.
2. You loosen the bleed ***** and let any air/fluid out, then tighten it back up quickly.
3. They release the pedal completely.
4. Repeat #1 through #3 until the clutch stiffens up.
Remember to check the fluid level in the reservoir after every couple of "rounds" and keep it at the FULL line.


As the air is bled out of the line, fluid should leak out of the center of the bleed *****.
That's what the catch cup is for:
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Check the fluid level back at the MC and make sure it's at the FULL level.
Put the rubber diaphragm back in the MC reservoir, and ***** the yellow cap on tight.


The shop rag is to wipe up any brake fluid that you missed.


Double-check for any spills or leaks anywhere in the line or at the connections.


BEFORE STARTING THE ENGINE, test the clutch a few times. Make sure all the "mush" is gone and you have consistent pressure throughout the travel of the pedal.


That's it.



©2009 Kevan J. Geier
All Rights Reserved
 

Steve M

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A few things to add:

1. The pics make it look like there is more room than there actually is...some of that is probably because a truck was used in the photos. I don't have huge hands, but I also don't have tiny hands, and it was TIGHT in there.

2. I managed to get a cup up there, but it didn't really catch much of anything...most of it ran down the inside of the bell housing, and a fair amount around the outside. It was a very messy job.

3. I had the best luck removing the belly pan to give my arm some room to move...you don't HAVE to remove it to gain access to the bleeder, but it worked better for me having it out of the way.

I'm honestly not sure the clutch fluid had ever been touched on my car...it was pretty dirty, although that doesn't take long to happen based on the slave design (GM cars use a similar design and suffer from the same problem).
 

Mad Max

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While I had my trans out I replaced the HRB. I replaced the fluid in the master and used a hand vacuum pump. I was able to do it without help and I didn't have brake fluid everywhere.
 

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