Do you use power polisher tools?

[YLW DRM2]

Hey guys, I noticed that I can do only so much with my hands to make my car paint on the car look good. Lately I was thinking of getting one of the power polishers from Sears, but I was wondering which one would be good and more important if it is safe to use these power tools on a Viper (I have a yellow Gen3).
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/search_10153_12605?keyword=buffers+and+polishers&vName=

 

[kcobean]

See this thread for LOTS of good info.

http://forums.viperclub.org/viper-detailing-tips-tricks/634425-how-do-i-avoid-swirl-marks-paint.html

If you have any paint correction to do, you'll need 'power tools', but you should be selective about what you use.

 

[RobZilla]

PorterCable 7424.

 

[Dom426h]

+1 on the portercable, or the Griots.

Griot's Garage 6" Random Orbital - Griot's Garage

 

[JHill9]

+2 for the Porter Cable 7424xp if you have never used one before.

 

[kcobean]

+1 on the portercable, or the Griots.

Griot's Garage 6" Random Orbital - Griot's Garage

I'm using the Griot's and am really liking it so far, but the PC seems to be a favorite for many.

 

[Black Moon]

I bought mine at advance auto for $29 and it looks like the Groits and works great. I also have one like the sears that works also came from advance. Both are good units and have lasted years. I never suggest any buffer unless the paint is dulling. Hand polishing in a single direction will keep good paint looking great. If it needs a mechanical buffer better know what you are doing and use a slow speed.

 

[kcobean]

I bought mine at advance auto for $29 and it looks like the Groits and works great. I also have one like the sears that works also came from advance. Both are good units and have lasted years. I never suggest any buffer unless the paint is dulling. Hand polishing in a single direction will keep good paint looking great. If it needs a mechanical buffer better know what you are doing and use a slow speed.

You need to read through the thread I linked to above. Your advice is contrary to what the 'experts' say, and I have seen first hand.

 

[ViperTony]

I've had my PC 7424 for 6 years and I wouldn't part with it. Kcobean's thread has lots of great information in there. Take care of your paint and it will take care of you.

 

[Sellshomesdrivesviper]

I've had my PC 7424 for 6 years and I wouldn't part with it. Kcobean's thread has lots of great information in there. Take care of your paint and it will take care of you.

Same here, PC 7424 for 5-years, works great.
I agree, great useful information on this thread.
Thanks for sharing.

 

[Lee]

I found this website to have a lot of information regarding polishers, pads and methods.

Porter Cable, Meguiars, Flex, Makita Dual Action & Orbital Car Polishers, Pads & Accessories

I bought a Porter Cable, polish, glaze and wax and a broad assortment of pads. This winter I taped off both vipers and spent a month (an hour here and there) bringing out the best in both cars.

I am very happy with the results and the information that was available on the site.

 

[BlknBlu]

I just finished buffing and polishing my 1968 Dodge R/T and polished the 09 ACR. Both were easy and turned out great.

Bruce

 

[Junkman2008]

Those cheap auto store polishers are a major waste of time and money. The PC and any of its re-badged versions are the way you want to go.

 

[Brian_Brice]

You need to read through the thread I linked to above. Your advice is contrary to what the 'experts' say, and I have seen first hand.

Very vague statement in general

 

[jimo66]

i do all my polishing by hand, the car is not that big

 

[Junkman2008]

i do all my polishing by hand, the car is not that big

No, but some of us have a lot older ball and socket joints than you!

There's nothing wrong with working by hand if your paint is free of damage. That's pretty easy. It's trying to remove major swirls and scratches by hand that is crazy. It takes long enough to do it with a PC. It would take months to do a whole car that way, even a small sports car.

 

[dave6666]

Makita BO6040 here with 6" Edge pad system. Everything I've read about the Porter Cable points to it's lack of power running a 6" pad hence my decision to spend $250 versus the $100 PC.

No looking back, you get what you pay for.

 

[Garron]

7424 three years

 

[dave6666]

^^^ What size pad? How long to machine polish an entire vehicle?

 

[Junkman2008]

Makita BO6040 here with 6" Edge pad system. Everything I've read about the Porter Cable points to it's lack of power running a 6" pad hence my decision to spend $250 versus the $100 PC.

No looking back, you get what you pay for.

Actually, you could have gotten a better polisher for cheaper by going with the Bosch 1250DEVS, which is significantly cheaper. The one you picked has a performance of 1600 - 5800 OPM, as compared to the Bosch at 3,100-6,650 OPM. The real cool thing about the Bosch is that it has a switch that changes the back plate from a clutched orbital (just like the PC), to a forced rotation orbital (just like the Flex 3401VRG).

You must be registered for see images

That puppy gets real nasty when you throw that switch and rivals the work that a rotary will do. It is dangerous in the hands of a novice but since you can switch back to the clutched mode, you can gradually work your way up to the forced rotation method.

I wouldn't put either one of these polishers into the hands of a novice because of their aggressiveness but hey, that's one man's opinion!

7424 three years

Now the PC is not that bad! I work wonders with that machine.

 

[Junkman2008]

^^^ What size pad? How long to machine polish an entire vehicle?

It totally depends on the damage to the vehicle. Every car would be different.

 

[Matt M PA]

I have a rotary, a Makita BO6040 and two Porter Cables...the 7336 and newer 7424XP.

When simply applying "wax", the 7336 is great. Lightweight...works very well.

The newer XP has some more speed and power. I remove cobwebbing (what some call swirls) regularly with this machine.

The Makita too has a switch for both forced rotation and orbital motions. The Makita also "ramps up" to the speed selected when turned on. Forced rotation helps avoid buffing halograms while performing similar to a rotary.

Rotaries are great for faster work...but you really need experience to do it right and not cause damage.

The PCs use a smaller pad, while the Makita goes up a step. I have never found the pad size to make much difference in the time required to get the job done.

Lots of folks swear by the Cyclo polisher. I have avoided the change as it would mean all new pad sizes, etc.

 

[Canyon707]

Porter cable orbital are pretty good. It really makes a difference polishing with a nice polishing pad. I have a black Viper that as you know you can stare light scratches into. It makes all the difference the world using a light cut then wax

 

[dave6666]

It totally depends on the damage to the vehicle. Every car would be different.

Wasn't asking you.

Read my post.

 

[Junkman2008]

I have a rotary, a Makita BO6040 and two Porter Cables...the 7336 and newer 7424XP.

When simply applying "wax", the 7336 is great. Lightweight...works very well.

The newer XP has some more speed and power. I remove cobwebbing (what some call swirls) regularly with this machine.

The Makita too has a switch for both forced rotation and orbital motions. The Makita also "ramps up" to the speed selected when turned on. Forced rotation helps avoid buffing halograms while performing similar to a rotary.

Rotaries are great for faster work...but you really need experience to do it right and not cause damage.

The PCs use a smaller pad, while the Makita goes up a step. I have never found the pad size to make much difference in the time required to get the job done.

Lots of folks swear by the Cyclo polisher. I have avoided the change as it would mean all new pad sizes, etc.

I have seen the pad sizes make a difference, depending on the size of the back plate. A pad that is more than 1 inch bigger than the back plate is less effective around the outer edges.

As for the 7336 and the XP, I have both and see absolutely no difference between the two except for visual. I tell folks that if you can find the older one for much cheaper, jump on it.

As for holograms, they can be avoided with a rotary by using the correct compounds at the correct speed. So many rotary users have no idea how to use them properly and are giving them a bad name. I have never seen anyone create holograms with a Flex. This is mainly because of it being a orbital. I am with you on the Cyclone. I see absolutely no advantage to going with it. I am going to purchase the Flex rotary and use it next week at Hot August Nights. I will have plenty of specimens to test it on there. Lots of jacked up paint at that show.

Wasn't asking you.

Read my post.

Sorry. Just trying to be helpful.

 

[wikkid]

I bought the Griots machine with there polish and wax. All i can say is, its unbalievable what a machine can do instead of the hand. It is truly amazing. This was my very first time and again i could not believe how easy it is to remove scratches, and this was on a black viper, you fart wrong and you can scratch a black car. But when done she will look better then new

 

[Junkman2008]

I bought the Griots machine with there polish and wax. All i can say is, its unbalievable what a machine can do instead of the hand. It is truly amazing. This was my very first time and again i could not believe how easy it is to remove scratches, and this was on a black viper, you fart wrong and you can scratch a black car. But when done she will look better then new

Looking forward to the pics.

 

[FLATOUT]

I started with the PC then bought the Flex ROB, and the Flex light weight rotary as well. If you haven't used machines stick with ROB's.

 

[PaViper]

I have seen the pad sizes make a difference, depending on the size of the back plate. A pad that is more than 1 inch bigger than the back plate is less effective around the outer edges.

As for the 7336 and the XP, I have both and see absolutely no difference between the two except for visual. I tell folks that if you can find the older one for much cheaper, jump on it.

As for holograms, they can be avoided with a rotary by using the correct compounds at the correct speed. So many rotary users have no idea how to use them properly and are giving them a bad name. I have never seen anyone create holograms with a Flex. This is mainly because of it being a orbital. I am with you on the Cyclone. I see absolutely no advantage to going with it. I am going to purchase the Flex rotary and use it next week at Hot August Nights. I will have plenty of specimens to test it on there. Lots of jacked up paint at that show.



Sorry. Just trying to be helpful.

I have had the 7336 for years and was still in the box until the Junkman set me free...Junkman, looking forward to seeing you this weekend at that "other" car show. If you have the chance to watch the Junkman work, take it.

 

[Junkman2008]

I started with the PC then bought the Flex ROB, and the Flex light weight rotary as well. If you haven't used machines stick with ROB's.

You mean to stick with the PC type or the PC or the Flex ROB?

I have had the 7336 for years and was still in the box until the Junkman set me free...Junkman, looking forward to seeing you this weekend at that "other" car show. If you have the chance to watch the Junkman work, take it.

I can't wait! Two more days and my plane will be en-route Harrisburg. See you there!