engine temp

Marv S

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Hi Andrew,

First question I have is "what gear are you in @ 75 mph?"

I presume you are at 75 on the 101? If you are running high rpm the car will heat up here on a hot, humid day. It should not be running that hot if you're running down the freeway in 5th or 6th gear.

We were out last Sat for a drive through Fountain Hills and up the Rio Verde Hill and the temp needle didn't get past the first mark right of center. How many miles on the rebuild? That may be a factor in the temp. Fan coming on high speed with the A/C on? Does idling with the A/C on turn on the high speed fan and lower the temp?
 

JonB

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Normal.

That kind of outside temp, Gen-I, black car, A/C on, cruising at 75 in 4th/5th gear, you are going to hit 235-240.

Don't forget to regularly Simple-Green (or Windex) your radiator, and A/C condensor, and squirt cleanwith a garden hose (not a pressure washer.) As many bugs as you clean off your facia also dirty your radiator, but you don't clean it NEAR as often !

If you swap out to the 1998.7+ fan/shroud module, your temps will still GO as high, but come down much FASTER. Friday 13h Sale!
 

XS TORQ

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Luc,
I added (and continue to do so when changing coolant) water-wetter. I have not seen a significant decrease in temperature due to this. Changing to the '99 fan module seems to have helped a lot. I still feel that my car runs too hot (I have a 94 built 10/93, and it has the "old style" temp guage that has yellow before red). It runs near the yellow quite often.
 

Jim Sullivan

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I used Water Wetter once and about two days later I lost the passenger side head gasket. Yes, I know it probably was about to go anyways but I've never used it since. I live in Florida where it gets pretty hot. I run just to the left of straight up and the way I do that is that I burp the system once a month. I've had the car for over 7 years and burping and the 99 fan are the only things that I have found to make a difference.
 

bad viper

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there is a $10 chrysler cure..
it is a fan relay that turns fans on high
as soon as a/c is selected car shouldn't run over 210-215 with this fix.
see archives for part number
look under my name as poster.
 

2charmed

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Do you have high flow air filters? Smooth Tubes?
I don't know why, but my Z06 temp fell a little better than 10 degrees simply by putting a cold air intake set up on.
I like the aftermarket fan kit from Roe Racing also. (won't help while driving but helps cool the engine after stopping) You might
try adding a lower temp thermostat also?
Good luck,
Steve
 

David Jenkins

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The temp. gauge tends to read higher than the engine temp. At 250, the engine is probably only 230 or so. Hook up a scan tool to see what the engine temp. is. Also, there is 90 degrees between low to midrange, and only 60 degrees from midrange to high. (100-190, 190-250) Hence the gauge moves "more" on the high side. We've put in resistors to aid in accuracy of the gauge. This only applies to gen I. dj
 
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Marv S

Marv S

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Mike,


<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by wilddude:
Ok, this might sound simplistic, but wouldn't it be better to install a 160 degree thermostat to keep the car cooler? Mike<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
<UL TYPE=SQUARE>
<LI>A 160 t-stat will not cause a car running in the desert heat to run at a colder operating temp

<LI>Removing the inside of the t-stat, or removing it altogether will not help a car running in desert heat to run colder and will likely cause it to run HOTTER because the water volume moves too quick through the system due to the removal of the restriction (the t-stat) and does not have adequate time to cool down in the heat exchanging unit (radiator)

<LI>A 160 t-stat WILL cause a car running in winter temps to run at an operating temp that is too cold
[/list]
 

99 R/T 10

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Good point marv,
Although I was under the impression (may be incorrect impression) that with the body of the thermostat still in place it would restrict the flow enough to cool the engine down. I have done this in my Buick with no problems at all and the temp in it stays right in the range of 150-180 degrees.

Mike
 

phiebert

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Mike, I'm with Marv on this one. The thermostat only controls when the water moves and when it goes through the extra piping. Once all that extra water is hot a normal thermostat would be wide open anyway and a different stat wouldn't change the temperature of the engine. If you could add more cool water from a large reserve tank that would be the ticket. Basically changing to a lower stat would mean the stat would open sooner and you would get a short term cooling while the extra cooler water is heated up. Once that happens you really don't get any change.

It's a good idea though because the reverse does work pretty well. That is, if you are trying to keep your engine temp higher you can switch to a higher stat. That will slow down or stop the flow and the water will continue to get warmer. Take it from a guy in Canada to know that one!
 

99 R/T 10

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Thanks for the No. Wayne, and Phiebert I'm with ya on that(I see how cold you guys get up there), but on a couple performance theads, the guys were talking about how the car will lose HP when it get's up to the 210-230 range(I think). With a loss of 20 HP, I was thinking(incorrectly) that the cooler the thermo the cooler the car. I am heading down to LA (lower Alabama) so I need all the cooling help I can get!!!!!

Mike
 

99 R/T 10

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Ok, this might sound simplistic, but wouldn't it be better to install a 160 degree thermostat to keep the car cooler? Or better yet(and I know I am going to get flamed for this suggestion), take out the center of the thermostat to make it constntly flow full time. Also put in a fan switch for 180 degrees.

Mike
 
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