Gen I radiator fan - replacement options

Discussion in 'RT/10 and GTS Discussions' started by Titan1969, Apr 12, 2018.

  1. Titan1969

    Titan1969 Enthusiast

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    I had a posted previously that I had repaired my 1995 Gen I original "offset single style cooling fan".
    Unfortunately it was short lived and sheered the motor pin off again, Im thinking due to the fan blade being warped.

    Instead of trying to repair it again, or put a new blade on, Im going to replace the fan and motor.

    I have read numerous writeups and comments on this option, but what I have found is thin on specifics.

    Ideally I want to keep my original shroud and just install a SPAL style fan.
    If someone has done this, what fan did you use?

    If you went the Gen II fan/motor, what years will mount up close to my 1995?

    thanks in advance
     
  2. Titan1969

    Titan1969 Enthusiast

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    No responses, soooo project is underway.

    I'm attempting to use the original shroud and will be removing the stock motor/blade and mounting a SPAL fan in place.

    Pics coming soon
     
  3. Titan1969

    Titan1969 Enthusiast

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    The below is my current cooling fan setup with the fan blade removed. The fan blade had become so out of balance it was cutting into the frame of the shroud. I made one attempt to re-pin the shaft and straighten the blade, however after 23 years it was not salvageable.
    So Im attempting to salvage the shroud itself and scrap the OEM fan.
    [​IMG]
     
  4. Titan1969

    Titan1969 Enthusiast

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    Heres is a pic of the where the OEM blade was cutting into the shroud.

    [​IMG]
     
  5. Titan1969

    Titan1969 Enthusiast

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    I did a lot of research of fan options, CFM, voltages, amps, relay issues, heat issues and finally decided to go with the SPAL 30102049 16" Curved Blade Puller.

    Why? Im attempting to leave the stock shroud, alternator, relays, wiring in tact. This SPAL fan maxes out at 19amp and pulls 2000CFM (but yes higher amp at initial start up ). Will it be enough CFM? Im not sure yet...stay tuned

    [​IMG]
     
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  6. Titan1969

    Titan1969 Enthusiast

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    I needed to drill out the OEM motor 3 rivets then cut out the OEM motor frame to make room for the SPAL fan. Here the SPAL fan sits nearly perfect in the OEM shroud opening...guess I got lucky.

    [​IMG]
     
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  7. Titan1969

    Titan1969 Enthusiast

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    Since the shroud plastic is very brittle and shatters easily, I needed to find a method to mount the fan but not create excessive stress at the mounting locations of the SPAL fan.

    I purchased qty:4 of 2 1/2" by 1/4 - 20 course thread bolts.

    I triple checked the position of the SPAL fan so its located perfectly over the OEM shroud opening, marked the 4 post mounting holes, drilled 4 holes in the shroud.

    I then threaded the bolt (head on the rad side) adding a very wide spacer washer to spread out the load on the shroud.

    On the engine side I mounted the bolt first by adding a nylon threaded 1/4-20 nut. Again I used locking nylon nuts in an attempt to reduce pressure on the shroud yet assure the bolts would not vibrate loose.

    Then added another washer and nylon 1/4 - 20 nut to the top side of the SPAL fan.

    Here is the engine side with bolts and fan mounted, bolts showing.

    [​IMG]
     
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  8. Titan1969

    Titan1969 Enthusiast

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    Here is the rad side of the shroud, not pretty but spreading out the stress on the shroud.

    [​IMG]
     
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  9. Titan1969

    Titan1969 Enthusiast

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    Wiring....

    I have the ROE Racing Fan Control Kit, this is already wired to the Dark Green low speed side of the OEM harness, however the SPAL fan is a SINGLE SPEED ONLY, not dual like OEM.
    Knowing this I eliminated the OEM high speed fan connection ( capped of the harness ) and will use only the low speed line. This will trigger around 200 degrees by the ROE kit.
    This means the fan is HIGH SPEED even though low speed line trigger.

    I tested the A/C and the 200 degree low speed ROE trigger and fan came on and cycled very well. Alternator gauge does not seem to be dropping as the fan kicks in, no smoke, no fire..so far so good.
     
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2018
  10. Titan1969

    Titan1969 Enthusiast

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    Soooo...whats next?

    Nope havent taken it for a drive yet, thats next and Ill post results and outside air temps.

    I will also check the OEM fan relays for any signs of prior heat ( I have never looked at them before, not sure of their condition ).

    Ill continue to watch the relays and connectors for several months as Im concerned the fan may pull more amps than OEM.

    stay tuned....
     
  11. Welfare racing

    Welfare racing Enthusiast

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    Which fan did you use and who was the supplier? Wait I see it above, when are you testing? If you don't use a roe fan kit, will the low voltage side of the system shut down when the high voltage side kicks in, looks like I'll need to do this myself in the future, but don't want to buy a roe fan relay kit
     
  12. Titan1969

    Titan1969 Enthusiast

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    Test #2

    I drove the car in 70 degree outside temps for about 10 miles. I have the ROE fan control set to energize the low speed line at slightly above the 3 tick mark in the center of the gauge.

    The fan is cooling very well so far, cycling on and off in traffic 2-3 minutes on then about 2-3 minutes off.

    I also turned the headlights on the draw more power and though it was a short drive, the alternator gauge did not move. However the lights dimmed briefly inside the car as the start amperage on the fan kicks in. Then interior lights go back to normal brightness quickly, less than a second.
     
  13. Titan1969

    Titan1969 Enthusiast

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    Yes the high temp trigger will shut off the low temp/low speed line is my understanding of the OEM circuitry.,

    The ROE is a totally separate circuit from the Viper controller and because the ROE is reading a trigger temp set by me( 200 - 210 approx ) it will continue to energize the fan until the temp drops.

    Even if the temp continues to rise higher and higher the ROE will not stop energizing the low speed line.

    The Vipers temp system will trigger the high line in a higher temp scenario, however I have capped off the high line OEM wiring by the fan.

    I personally have never had my Viper get the the high speed trigger temp ( fortunately ) even in 110 degree temp days in CA. I think the engine is cooler than the driver some days :)
     
  14. ViperJeff

    ViperJeff VCA Legacy Member - UT/AZ Staff Member

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    Have you considered bending and painting the washers/bolts to make them less noticeable. ( not criticizing, just a question)
     
  15. Titan1969

    Titan1969 Enthusiast

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    I cant see them now that the washers are located between the shroud and radiator
     
  16. ViperJeff

    ViperJeff VCA Legacy Member - UT/AZ Staff Member

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    That works
     
  17. Titan1969

    Titan1969 Enthusiast

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    Test #3

    Ok out for a longer ride today, still pretty cool outside at 67 degrees.

    Fan controls heat very well and it is loud, but I have no muffs so the fan is not to noticeable.

    I needed to bump up the trigger temp on the ROE, as the fan kept cooling the temps down the 1st mark on the center of 190 degrees.
    I raised the ROE until it kicks on just above the 3 tick mark in the center.

    I ran through the gears very hard then hit traffic several times, the SPAL had no issue bringing the temp back down.

    Seems 2000 CFM puller with a SPAL and OEM shroud so far, works very well.

    I then parked it in the garage, with the car off, the SPAL was kicking on like it normally does. Ill check if the engine cranks tomorrow or if the SPAL drew the battery down, during its on / off cycling with key off.

    UPDATE****
    The Viper started up no problem, despite the fan controller cycling the fan on and off last weekend after my drive and parking the car a week with no battery tender.
    I do use a battery tender regularly since I do no drive the Viper often.
     
    Last edited: May 5, 2018
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  18. MoparMap

    MoparMap VCA National President

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    That's some great reverse engineering! Always nice to see people do their best to reuse parts. Sometimes you just don't have any other options either. Glad it seems to be working out well so far.
     
    Last edited: May 9, 2018
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  19. Titan1969

    Titan1969 Enthusiast

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    Final test...

    Drove around for a few hours, 80 degree outside temps, a lot of traffic and running the A/C.

    All went well, the SPAL could drop the temps no matter the conditions, to a point where it would cycle on and off. It never needed to run continuously.

    I'll post up if any issues occur in the future.
    Thx for reading.
     
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