Innovate LC-1 Wiring

[Purdue_Boiler_Viper]

How do you guys wire this darn thing? There seem to be conflicting requirements.

1. Don't power the sensor until the engine starts, or cold condensation may damage the sensor.
2. For calibration the unit must be operated in free air, and obviously powered. But how do I wire it for calibration (engine off), and for normal operation (engine on for #1)? Not simple.

Also, I assume you guys are not really calibrating in "free air". That would require removal of the sills and the sensors. Are you just calibrating after waiting for the exhaust to clear out?

 

[EllowViper]

Yes. Free air calibration. I can remove my sensor without taking the side sills off. My **** is right under the aluminum shielding and I simply cut a hole in it so the sensor sticks out. Remove from the top with an 02 sensor socket. I calibrate with the "key on" and not running. Only take a minute or so.

 

[GTSnake]

So you need to jack it up, remove the sensors, calibrate it then reinstall it??? What a PITA...

 

[EllowViper]

Nope. Its right under the windshield washer fluid reservoir. I have a **** welded there in my headers. I should have clarified that. All I have to do is unplug the sensor from the LC-1 (mounted under the PCM bracket by the hood latch), take all the ground wires off the grounding lug (to get better access), put the 02 sensor socket on the sensor, and turn it out. Lots of room. I can send a pic if you want.

 

[Fast Too]

Free air calibrated mine yesterday. It is a PITA since I have to pull the wheel well cover out to get at it. I did think about a similar install location as EllowViper for ease of access, but decided against it as I wanted to be down stream of the header collector but before the Cat. Mine is in the bend on the mid pipe. I think I get a more accurate reading there for the entire bank. This only has to be done twice a year now so I can live with it. Its a good crappy weather day project to calibrate it.

 

[Purdue_Boiler_Viper]

Hmm. With high flow cats and no muffler, I would think that the exhaust gases would diffuse out / air diffuse in relatively fast. Can't we measure O2 in the exhaust pipe over time to determine how long this takes? And then just cal in the exhaust pipe after waiting that period of time?

 

[Fast Too]

Hmm. With high flow cats and no muffler, I would think that the exhaust gases would diffuse out / air diffuse in relatively fast. Can't we measure O2 in the exhaust pipe over time to determine how long this takes? And then just cal in the exhaust pipe after waiting that period of time?

Does someone have a calculator to determine that period of time. I'll just stick mine in the 14.7 free air for unleaded gas until someone figures out that equation.........

 

[Purdue_Boiler_Viper]

Does someone have a calculator to determine that period of time. I'll just stick mine in the 14.7 free air for unleaded gas until someone figures out that equation.........

Based on theory, that would be some calculation. I was just thinking that we have an O2 sensor right there, so why can't we just look at its output and determine when it sees normal air? Then wait a while longer and do the calibration.

 

[GTSnake]

I'll just stick mine in the 14.7 free air for unleaded gas until someone figures out that equation.........

Why would "Free Air" be stoichimetric?

 

[GTSnake]

So I got my LC-1 working finally. But the only problem is it only works when I connect the yellow analog #1 to the A/F gauge. When I use the brown wire the gauge doesn't work. Shouldn't they be the same for Analog #1 or #2?

 

[ViperTony]

So I got my LC-1 working finally. But the only problem is it only works when I connect the yellow analog #1 to the A/F gauge. When I use the brown wire the gauge doesn't work. Shouldn't they be the same for Analog #1 or #2?

I think you may need to go into the LC-1 and reprogram the output values for Analog Out 2 using the LM programmer. I have one going to my gauge and the other to my Vec3 for logging. I remember having to change the output values: From LC-1's manual:

"6. Optionally, the YELLOW (Analog out 1) and/or BROWN (Analog out 2) can be connected to the analog inputs of other devices such as data loggers, ECUs, or gauges. If either one or both of these wires are not being used isolate and tape the wire(s) out of the way. The default analog outputs are as follows: Analog output one is 1.1V = 14 AFR and .1V = 15 AFR. This is a simulated narrowband signal. Analog output two is setup as 0V = 7.35 AFR and 5V = 22.39 AFR."

 

[GTSnake]

Yeah, I thought that was the case.

Would you happen to know what values you programmed your VEC input to?

 

[ViperTony]

Try this:
0 Volts = 10
5 Volts = 18