Installing a Shift Light

Jack B

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This is usually an easy task, however, we have no access to schematics, therefore, making the job a little harder. Even if you do not have a need for a shift light this post will also also show how to access switched power, this is needed for other aftermarket accessories.

It is always best to wire to a terminal block and not directly to a device, it makes it easier to trouble shoot and terminate. I decided to use a fuse block as my terminal block because I intend to use switched power for more than one device. The fuse block will allow me to isolate/protect separate circuits.

We first need to locate switched power. When you analyze the PDC there are some ommissions and errors between the fuse location schedule in the owners manual and the actual layout. There are not many options available. I used a "Add-A-Circuit" (AAC), which uses an existing fuse socket. It basically gives you an additioanl circuit, The key is to find a switched circuit, in the picture below the vertical part of the AAC plugs into the fourth slot of that five slot group. In my SRT the fifth slot is open because that is for the adjustable shocks.


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The picture below shows the terminal block (fuse block) and the ground block that i added on top of the drivers footwell. I had to remove the cowl cover to mount these, when you put the cowl cover on, the blocks cannot be seen. To ground the lower bar I ran a wire to the the aluminum casting that the windshield wipers are mounted on, this is factory tied to the firewall and the frame.

The red arrow denotes where the cable for the shift light enters the cabin. The green wire is routed to the #7 coil pack. It is the easiest coil to work with. You first have to remove the drivers side engine cover, it is removed by lifting the cover about 1/2" thenpulling the cover out the front side.

There are two wires entering the coil pack. You have to tap into the solid colored wire. It looks like a gold color conductor. For information sake I put a scope on the gold wire and it had 400 volt pulses driving the coil.


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The Raptor shift light is Velcro mounted to the top of the column. If you install a Raptor, the Cylinders X Pulses = 1. The new viper must not have the waste spark like the Gen2, that program value was a 2.


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Nine Ball

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Excellent write-up. I had to figure this stuff out myself on my '06, went to the PCM rpm signal wire, instead of a coil wire.

Tony
 

Nine Ball

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Is the red Stryker shift light on the tach not bright enough? I know I need a fairly bright shift light to be effective.

It is bright enough, but an aftermarket shift light can be programmed to come on at the exact rpm that you want. Some people react to the light faster than others. I usually set the lights to about 200 rpm before I need to shift the car, so that I react to the light. The factory glowing light can be misleading since it sort of glows brighter and brighter - but doesn't really give you an idea of what rpm you are at. I've trained myself to shift using the factory glow though, just took some (fun) practice.

Tony
 
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Jack B

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There are times you cannot watch the shrouded oem display:

1. Trying to stay in the grooves at the strip

2. Watching the comp if bracket racing.

3. Autocross.

You can feel a good shift light. Just an opinion, if you race, your eyes should be on the track.


Is the red Stryker shift light on the tach not bright enough? I know I need a fairly bright shift light to be effective.
 

BlackSnake99

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There are times you cannot watch the shrouded oem display:

1. Trying to stay in the grooves at the strip

2. Watching the comp if bracket racing.

3. Autocross.

You can feel a good shift light. Just an opinion, if you race, your eyes should be on the track.

Oh, I agree completely. I have a big ol' Autometer in my Gen II, set at 5.4k because my reflexes are old. I was just curious as to the effectiveness of the tach shift light.
 

ViperTony

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FWIW, another option is the Modifry shift beeper. Audio, no visual. Helps me keep my eyes on the track and the progressive beeping is loud is crisp. Programmable too. Nice write up Jack! :2tu:
 

Nine Ball

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If you watch this vid (especially in the higher gears) you'll notice the tach begins to glow red at only 5500 rpm. Looks like it goes 4 steps brighter, to full bright at 6000 rpm.

http://forums.viperclub.org/threads/667517-Acceleration-Video...

Most people only need 200-300 rpm to react to a light. The issue with the factory glowing tach is that it is hard to tell if the tach is all the way bright red or not. I'd rather it stay off and then flash full bright at 6100 rpm, so that it could act more like a shift lite. The glowing part sort of screws me up. Even at full red 6000 rpm, my reaction would have me shifting it at 6150-6200, which is still a little early.

For best results, shift right before the rpm limiter steps in. :drive:
 

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