lowered my viper - pix inside

Fast Freddy

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as you can see, if you can tell at all, i only lowered my viper 3/4" in the front and 1/2" in the rear. my car is setup for road racing and so i didn't want to go too low or i wouldn't be able to get it on my trailer, lol. i had the car corner weighted and a road race track alignment done with 1.8 degrees of negative camber in the front and 1.0 degree of negative camber in the rear. i didn't want to get to aggresive with the camber on the car because in addition to running short tracks i will be doin the open road racing stuff in nevada too. i still **** my car on the street too so everything is compromised so the car can be a jack of all trades. i have an extra set of forgeline VR-1 wheels with slicks for the track. i will post pix up of the car with those next month. in addition to the pix you see here i have provided links that will take you to the enlarged version of these pix which reside in my gallery on this site. you can see much better detail in those pix. if you look closely you will see that i had my stock front brakes moved to the rear of the car and have SRT-10 calipers and rotors in the front. i also have steel braided brakes lines and race compound pads :cool:

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enlarged pic

enlarged pic 2
 

Man_Car

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Looks great, I'm worried about lowering mine because of speed bumps and my own driveway....
 

Detlef

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I do the occasional road racing and was wondering how much difference you felt with the brake upgrade. Can you brake later now?
 
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Fast Freddy

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I do the occasional road racing and was wondering how much difference you felt with the brake upgrade. Can you brake later now?

the setup i have is way better in terms of heat. i run the new ebc yellow track pads in the front and the old ebc reds in the rear. i have a infrared thermometer gun and checked my caliper and rotor temps front and rear and suprisingly the front calipers run 20 degrees cooler than the rear. it might be a result of the pads but i don't think so because the rotor temps are the same in the front as the rear. even though the front brakes are doing more of the braking than the rear the front calipers are just so much bigger than the rear that they just dissipate the heat better. not sure if the front calipers see more air cooling than the rears though. if they do this might be the reason then. bottom line i am very happy with my brake setup and give dave (aka racecars) props for his brake kit. i run a synthetic racing brake fluid. the brakes are a little heavier than the stock brake setup and you can feel the unsprung weight. in the future once i wear my stock rotors out i will be switching to sean roes aluminum hat rotors that are slotted this will save me 8.5 lbs per wheel in rotational and unsprung weight in the front and rear. :2tu:
 

ACR steve

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How do you like the new aglinement? i am going to have mine done and do the same type of running as you.Should I go with the same settings?
 
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Fast Freddy

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How do you like the new aglinement? i am going to have mine done and do the same type of running as you.Should I go with the same settings?

the new suspension set up is much better than the stock one. at high speed (175+ mph) the increased negative camber versus stock feels more twitchy to me though. putting more caster into the aligment will help alleviate this problem but at the expense of slow speed handling so compromises have to be made if you are gonna straddle both sides of the fence and not change your aligment for each track you go to. also while the increased negative camber is good for short track road courses like phoenix international raceway and willow springs in california it is not the ideal setup for high speed open road courses in nevada where speeds average 130+ mph for 50-130 miles depending upon the course. the increased negative camber will create more heat and wear on the inside edge of your tires at these high speed events which are mostly comprised of very long straightaways. so a blowout could happen. i run in the grand sport class so 1.8 degrees of negative camber safely approaches the limit. if you run in the faster classes (155+ average speed) i wouldn't run more than 1.0 negative degree of camber in the front. :2tu:
 

ROGUE

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What are your toe settings front and rear?

I'm almost shocked you only run in grand sport, figured someone who runs 200+ on the freeway would have the brass to run at least 170 @ silver state.
 
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Fast Freddy

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would luv to run in the faster classes but the amount of safety equipment installed on your car dictates how fast they will let you go. in order to run in the supersport divisions which is basically the unlimited classes you need to have a minimum 8 point roll cage installed in your car as well as a onboard automatic 5 lb halon fire extinguisher system. last but not least you are required to ditch your gas tank for a racing fuel cell. as it stands my car with its 4 point roll bar, 5 point restraints and 2.5 lb fire extinguisher is certified to run in the grand sport classes which start at a target average speed of 130 mph for GS1 and go all the way up to a target average speed of 155 mph in GS6 in 5 mph increments. the maximum tech speed allowed in the grand sport classes is 168 mph.

since i am first time participant with this organization i won't be allowed to run anything but the GS1 division this year. after this year i can run all the way up to GS6. i won't be doin the silver state this year. mkm racing promotions and www.openroadracing.com is where i will be this year. they have 3 different events in northern nevada on 3 different highways. the highway 93A road i will be running on at the bonneville 100 next month is the same road that you saw the worlds fastest indian take his motorcycle out on right next to the bonneville salt flats. the road starts in utah and runs thru northern nevada. :2tu:
 
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Fast Freddy

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Leslie - i see that you road race your Z06 and that you drive your viper on the street. :cool:

i do the just the opposite with my cars. i road race my viper and use my Z06 as my daily driver street car. i use my camaro and my lightning for drag racing

all my ridez get driven on the street though its just that some get driven on the street more than others :2tu:
 

ROGUE

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would luv to run in the faster classes but the amount of safety equipment installed on your car dictates how fast they will let you go. in order to run in the supersport divisions which is basically the unlimited classes you need to have a minimum 8 point roll cage installed in your car as well as a onboard automatic 5 lb halon fire extinguisher system. last but not least you are required to ditch your gas tank for a racing fuel cell. as it stands my car with its 4 point roll bar, 5 point restraints and 2.5 lb fire extinguisher is certified to run in the grand sport classes which start at a target average speed of 130 mph for GS1 and go all the way up to a target average speed of 155 mph in GS6 in 5 mph increments. the maximum tech speed allowed in the grand sport classes is 168 mph.

since i am first time participant with this organization i won't be allowed to run anything but the GS1 division this year. after this year i can run all the way up to GS6. i won't be doin the silver state this year. mkm racing promotions and www.openroadracing.com is where i will be this year. they have 3 different events in northern nevada on 3 different highways. the highway 93A road i will be running on at the bonneville 100 next month is the same road that you saw the worlds fastest indian take his motorcycle out on right next to the bonneville salt flats. the road starts in utah and runs thru northern nevada. :2tu:

I'm well aware of the tech rules as I was there this year, but with certain cars you can get away with more. IMO the fire supression system is something EVERYONE should have, rules required or not. But the fuel cell is easy enough to get around. That or just man up and put a cell in it, done right you would never know the car had one.

Also the 1st time class limitations can be bypassed if you have (and can prove) previous racing experience, SCCA and a few other organizations qualify. I hope to have a 200mph club jacket by years end (200mph average) :headbang:

But your settings should be fine, camber doesn't play a huge role in high speed stability, especially on street tires and running under 150mph. Car should be stable enough that at 150 you can take your hands off the wheel and it tracks dead straight. If not, then something is wrong.
Toe in, specifically rear toe has a MUCH bigger effect on how twitchy the car feels. Given the lack of tight corners and relatively narrow roads it doesn't need to turn in like a gocart, smooth and stable all the way.
 

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