Melting Gen 1 Headlight Switch...

[tarfungo]

The headlight switch on my Gen 1 became inoperable last weekend. After removing the lower dash cover to gain access, I was surprised with a nice little burn as the switch itself was EXTREMELY hot! So, I waited for the switch to cool and then proceeded to remove it in anticipation of replacement. Upon inspection of the switch it appears that female electrical connector had started to actually melt! ***?

I searched thorough the VCA archives and found a few hits regarding this issue indicating that this heat situation with the headlioght switch is known? One instance where the female harness required replacement because the plug had melted to the point of being unusable!

So, is there any way to mitigate this problem going forward? I was able to get the lighting back up using a new switch, but the female connector is fairly deformed. All seems to work, but what now?

 

[99 R/T 10]

My 96 RT's switch went the same way. I don't think there is a fix other than just replacing it, and hope it doesn't do it again. I guess you're just driving too much at night

 

[Kiaser]

I just had mine replaced. $350 parts and labor at a stealership just so I could get it back on the road.

The switch is actually a $20 part from autozone ($180 at the dealership). But I couldn't find a replacement part for the female connector, so I took it to the dealership. A bad ground common in the Gen I's is why this happens, and I think there's no real way to solve this.

One of the fins on the headlight switch was completely melted off and floating around. The female connector was completely deformed, to the point a new switch would not fit. The plastic facing on the female switch where the fins go in was concave. If I ever get around to it, I'll try to post pics.

 

[Randy]

I had this happen on my previous '95 RT/10, and deform the wiring harness connector to the point it would not connect to a new switch. They replaced the switch and wiring harness under warranty, and I spliced in the new connector; I'd rather do it as I feel I'm likely better at it than they are, and I really didn't want them taking the dash apart, nor did I want to.

In fact, its possible you came across my description on your search, as I beleive I may have posted something about it a long time ago.

 

[Jay Herbert]

One instance where the female harness required replacement because the plug had melted to the point of being unusable!

That was me! I got a repair kit from Doug Levin, seems that this is a regular problem on trucks, it is a repair kit for trucks.... the kit from Doug included a splice in harness and a new switch. Rather than splice into the harness, I removed the pins and reinserted one at a time in the connector. Worked great.

Here is the good part.... I bought a Ram Diesel recently and joined their club, after a bit of research, it seems their the trucks have the same problem here is the solution they found: Hot Headlight Switch

SUM-890030

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Summit Headlight Conversion Wiring Harness Kits Prevent a meltdown.

High wattage bulbs can fry your stock light switch. Our Summit wiring harness kits include a special relay system that'll prevent a meltdown.

 

[tarfungo]

Thank's Viper Jay! I’ve ordered one of the upgrade cables and we’ll see how it goes.

Does anyone know what the DC part number is for the female connector? I’ve checked with the folks that make the third party headlight switches that AutoZone and Kragen sell, but these folks don’t sell the female connector for the parts they make or distribute??? I can’t seem to find the part in my 95 parts catalog. (?)

 

[Jay Herbert]

Cool, let me know if it fits/works on your Viper, it is listed as a universal kit for 9004 bulbs. I ordered one for my Ram, and a set of Sylvania 9004 bulbs to go with it. Both were on clearance, less than $30 for the harness delivered, $50 once I got the bulbs.

 

[Kiaser]

Here's what my switch ended up looking like. You see the hole where another contact fin would be? The plastic around the fin melted and the fin was all twisted up. It would flop around loose and cause the lights to flicker on and off at times, then finally stop working all together. The female connector was in much worse shape.

 

[Mister XR]

Re: Melting Gen 1 Headlight Switch...

I found it a bit difficult to remove the old connector - here's what I had to do:
-unscrew the panel underneath the steering wheel
-pry the old melted connector off the switch - I had to use a flathead screwdriver
-while pressing the small button on top of the switch, pull the knob out
-insert a phillips screwdriver into the place where the knob came out of and unscrew the spanner screw that holds the headlight switch into place
-pull the switch out slightly and unplug the small connector from the top of the switch

So it turned out that I had the same problem as Kiaser - I bought a new headlight switch but found that the connector had melted. Unfortunately, when I called my local stealership(west covina), they told me the only way I could get that connector was to buy the entire headlight wiring kit to the tune of $1700.

The Summit kit is apparently not available anymore... at least not the one in the picture. I was a bit confused by this, perhaps I didn't look hard enough.

I DID find the female connector, though. I got this idea from Jay(he said the diesel ram has the same prob) - I went onto my favorite online parts store(rockauto.com) and navigated their parts catalog thusly:
dodge -> 1996 -> ram 3500 -> diesel -> electrical-connector -> Headlight switch connector

There it is! It's called the "airtex 1P1190" for $25:

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I ordered the part - what have I got to lose? It fit! The wires on the new plug even had the same position and color! I cut the old wires(and taped them to avoid a short) close to the plug so I'd have as much slack as possible (which isn't much). Spliced the new connector in with red crimp-type connectors, but the (huge)red wire had to be spliced with a gray twist-cap. Plugged the switch in and put everything back in place, and it works perfectly.

I did notice that the new switch/connector got a little warm when I tested it. It'll probably melt the connector again, but hopefully by that time I'll have more time/money to actually fix the grounding problem.

According to the interchange info in rockauto, the connector is also found on:
DODGE DAKOTA (1997 - 1998)
DODGE RAM 1500 PICKUP (1994 - 1999)
DODGE RAM 2500 PICKUP (1994 - 1999)
DODGE RAM 2500 PICKUP CLUB CAB 1998
DODGE RAM 2500 PICKUP QUAD CAB 1998
DODGE RAM 3500 PICKUP (1994 - 1999)
DODGE RAM 3500 PICKUP QUAD CAB 1998

Hope this helps someone who has the same prob!

Disclaimer: I'm not affiliated with rockauto in any way. I've used them for a couple years now and they've been pretty good to me - their online catalog is very intuitive. If someone knows a VCA sponsor that sells the same part/solution, I can update this to reflect that vendor.

 

[99 R/T 10]

Re: Melting Gen 1 Headlight Switch...

This is great information and need to be save in the Illustrated Upgrades section. Nice find XR!

 

[-FROG-]

Re: Melting Gen 1 Headlight Switch...

I didn't read everything... but keep your lights on full brightness at all times (Dash lights that is....) Dimming them creates more resistance in the switch area and the switch will get hott-er....

 

[RTTTTed]

Re: Melting Gen 1 Headlight Switch...

Might be time to convert to HID lights? Not only do they use half thepower but Low beam becomes brighter than high beam and visibiity is compareable to stock high beam in Gen 1 and 2s. I also bought another low beam kit and installed it in the highbeam socket. $130 ea. shipped from ebay.

Ted